Author Topic: Gonna Do's......... (Read 59773 times)

saw · « **Reply #25 on:** September 22, 2012, 05:53:41 AM »

Nice work

krv3000 · « **Reply #26 on:** September 22, 2012, 05:32:12 PM »

job well dun

Brass_Machine · « **Reply #27 on:** September 22, 2012, 06:39:40 PM »

Jeez David... You are making me look bad!

Awesome work.

Eric

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #28 on:** September 23, 2012, 04:52:19 AM »

Benni.... Bob..... Eric..... Thank you for your kind comments!

Getting towards the end of this year's list now.......

We all need a vice stop, at times.
I was going to make the universal type..... Screwed to the side of the fixed jaw.

My vice fixed jaw is pot hard!

Sooo..... It had to be located in the T slot.

Base...... 5/8" bore, heavy duty washer. Recessed to take a piece of 1" (or so) steel tube.

Head....... Spigots into tube. Drilled through, clearance for 10mm studding. Cross drilled, and sawn part through, for 4mm rod.

The three main components all press together, as an assembly.......

The un-clamped assembly has a large wobability factor, to locate in best position.

Also the rod can be bent, if necessary.

When the nut's tightened, all is locked solid........

Hmmm...... Looks like I need to shorten that excess thread, above the nut!

David D

NickG · « **Reply #29 on:** September 23, 2012, 06:03:05 AM »

Argh ... all these things would make life so much easier, but just can't get around to doing them! At least I'll have this thread to remind me now, nice 1 David, I really think I need to improve my workshop with all this sort of thing.

Also want a boring head, adaptor for rotary table (or at least another chuck), a quick change tool post and and a smaller 4 jaw for the lathe - these will all be on my list to Santa this year, trouble is, I'm 32 and don't get presents of that quality any more!!!!!

AussieJimG · « **Reply #30 on:** September 23, 2012, 06:27:30 AM »

Blimey! I might even be able to build something like that myself.

And I am sure it would be useful. Every time I stop trying to make things and just make something for the workshop it repays me a thousand-fold. I dunno why I don't do it more often.

Jim

stirling lad · « **Reply #31 on:** September 23, 2012, 11:09:31 AM »

THANKYOU , David, Ive wondered loads of times what that thing was, it kept appearing in your photos but i did'nt want to ask and appear even more stupid ..even in your tailstock mod in this thread it made an appearance but i could'nt figure what it was supposed to be....another mystery solved....

...Mike...

hopefuldave · « **Reply #32 on:** September 23, 2012, 01:41:13 PM »

Quote from: mechman48 on September 20, 2012, 05:25:15 PM

Dave,
Your RT mod has just reminded me that I have one of these tucked away for later use, bought from Chronos/Arc Euro, (usual disc'r) can't recall exactly, anyway it's something I need to do, & the same for the vice ( that's been fitted & trammed in for now so that will have to wait 'till as & when I move it). I'll have to write up my t'duit list as I'm sure to have forgotten something.
Nice mod anyhow & thanks for reminding me so to speak.

Agreed, a nice mod to a relatively inexpensive accessory! Having the keys and holes where you want must make it way more useful

Do you find the tilt locks up properly? I noticed the Big Brass Washer ...

I too have one of those 4" tilting tables, unfortunately the pin the table tilts on isn't parallel to any other surface... By about 3 degrees on the most accurate axis! Well, at least it was extra-cheap, i suppose we all have our off-days.

So... the plan (*any constructive criticism welcome!*) is to bore the hinge points and sleeve, both in the base and the table, and while I'm there I'm tempted to mill the top of the base flat and fit a piece of round bar to the table assembly level with / parallel to / a sensible distance away from the hinge pin (if it'll clear the internal Gubbins), pack the top surface of the base with a piece of gauge plate to get back to 0* tilt, and hey presto, slip in a gauge block and it's a sine-table? The alignment keys are a good idea, but I think I'd need 2 sets at right-angles - my T-slots area weird Olde English size, too!

This would all have to be done on the lathe, though, as yet I don't have a proper mill (sulk sulk, futile notes to father Xmas *and* the Hogfather, a Thiel 159 please!) but at least it has a big T-slotted cross-slide I can bolt things down to!

Dave H. (the other one)

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #33 on:** September 24, 2012, 03:48:16 PM »

Nick. I'm twice your age, plus some more...... I have to buy my own presents!

Jim. Have a go! You know it makes sense......

Young Mac Stirling..... It's a mystery to me, at times.......

These mods have taken up a lot of precious, orphan rehabilitation time this year. But are proving well worth it now.

A simple ferinstance.....
I'm finishing the lathe motor, extractor fan. Needed a few small holes drilling through the tinplate ducting. Without collapsing it.....

Just slackened off the vice screws, and slid it over to the left.
Gripped a piece of wood, as an anvil/ mandrel, protruding towards centre of table. Slid the duct over it, and drilled the holes..... Simples!
Then slid the vice back to centre, and nipped up again.

Vice, still in alignment.......

David D

krv3000 · « **Reply #34 on:** September 24, 2012, 05:32:41 PM »

so simpel yet it works well well dun you

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #35 on:** September 25, 2012, 03:49:18 AM »

Thanks Bob!
So simple. So easy. Once you've finally taken the time to do what needs to be done........

Dave Other.
Re the washer......I used a Nikken tilting rotary table for many years, in an earlier life.

This locked at angle, with worm drive, and a ring spanner. Rather more secure than the pifflin' handle supplied with this little un!

Oh dear! You got a Friday afternooner.....

Thankfully, mine trams parallel to the m/c table when down, and now, parallel in Y when at 90*.

The lock up, pulls the table sideways on the pin...... So, my idea was to machine the rear of the (tapered) quadrant casting, and insert a spacer.
I tried to remove the very tight pivot pin, but gave up when I realised I was in danger of breaking the castings........

Also, the cast slot in the quadrant did not match the arc of the lock screw, so I had to do some filing.
I used a 5/16" thermostat housing stud. Which I also had to file a clearance flat.......

Frankly, I'm happy with it....... No delusions of grandeur here!

The boring through/ sine bar idea sounds a good un!

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #36 on:** September 27, 2012, 05:54:19 PM »

Last one...... For now. Probably!

I modded my present mini mill, straight out of the box. Including an LMS belt drive...... http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4754.0

The revs are too high for my liking. Will gear down a bit, one day.

The problem, for me is a lack of free spinning spindle, for clocking purposes. The pulleys clash together, before there is enough belt slack.

It needs a longer belt. But, they're not available over here! ........ Unless someone knows differently.......

After a few quiet words, with a Gentleman in Idaho. A 1" longer version arrived.

The one on the left.......

The longer belt gave just sufficient slack. But was too long to adjust to drive mode. Needs a 1/2 " rearward spacer.

Alloy bar, 1.5" dia x 1" high. Two holes. Should be 1/4UNC, probably! I've only got BSW.........

Slim it down, a bit........

Installed........

The belt just clears the flange, before the pulleys contact........

Working well.

Just enough clearance when slackened....... 1/4" of movement left, when driving.

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #37 on:** October 03, 2012, 01:22:54 PM »

Just when I thought it was all over, and I could re-start the Maiwald fiasco.....

DAaad! Can you just, bend something, to look like this?

Only narrower, to fit my new phone....... Pleese!

"Not really. Without it looking very home made. I'll think about it".

Could machine one. From solid!

Piece of alloy. 40mm dia x 70mm long. Drew the relevant angles.

Started roughing........

Open slot, to around 11.5mm......

Mill base........

Approach angle in throat. Top the step, parallel to base........

Chunky..........

Fits a treat.......

Even, stable in vertical mode.......

I enjoyed a bit of proper milling, and No. 1 son's pleased.

That will do nicely!

David D

sbwhart · « **Reply #38 on:** October 03, 2012, 01:28:04 PM »

WOW great job:----- RU taking orders

I'll have two please.

Stew

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #39 on:** October 03, 2012, 01:34:36 PM »

Quote from: sbwhart on October 03, 2012, 01:28:04 PM

WOW great job:----- RU taking orders

I'll have two please.

Stew

Thanks Stew.

Orders? No. Sorry..... It's unique..... A one off..... Broken the mould.

Would like to see you make your two, (finger engine?), versions.

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #40 on:** October 09, 2012, 03:32:03 PM »

Just a little addendum, to the leadscrew handwheel posting. As I already had the r/table set up, today.

Andy's dial gave me the idea. One turn of the handwheel = .059". Divide by 6 = "10 thou".

A ring of 6 off, 5mm dimples. Including the locking grubscrew.....

And another 6 off, 3mm dimples, spaced between.......

The "reading" is taken along the line of light, from the overhead striplight.

Quite accurate enough, when "another 20 thou", is needed.

Any more accuracy demands the tyre gauge.

David D

andyf · « **Reply #41 on:** October 09, 2012, 04:38:56 PM »

That's a nifty solution, David!

You'll need to remember to keep your head still while taking off that 10 or 20 thou, so the reflection doesn't move. Or finish up another tin of syrup for the raw materials, so you can add sophistication with a double headed pointer. T shaped with the stem of the T fastened to the lathe bed.

Andy

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #42 on:** October 09, 2012, 04:45:11 PM »

Thanks for the "heads up" Andy!

I have already accuracy tested that theory. During shakedown trials

3" of for/ aft head movement, gives 2 thou of parallax error........ Approx........

Any pointer will have to wait....... We've just started a new tin!

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #43 on:** November 09, 2012, 08:08:55 AM »

It's becoming very easy to abandon the Maiwald tragedy, and do something more interesting.

Like this chuck backstop, for my mini lathe.......

Made from what I had in the bits box. 12mm studding. The 3 loctited nuts, just needed a light corner skim, to fit the bore.

Wedges, and spacer made from a "knocking stick", for Nikken toolholder.

This tightens in the rear of the spindle........

The r/h end is some 7" behind the front of the 5" chuck jaws.
Should be able to face up to 12" long components. Or shorter, using a probe screwed into the M6 tapped hole......

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #44 on:** November 11, 2012, 05:42:27 PM »

I use the standard 80mm chuck, most of the time. But need to fit the 5", occasionally.

My biggest problem is fumbly fingers, and fiddly little M6 nuts.......

So, I made meself a set from 12mm a/f mild steel, 1/2" long........

The chuck stud can now hold the nut, while I swap hands to spin it into engagement........

Another alternative, is to buy a pack of 10 stud connectors for £1.90.......

Though for me, the larger a/f nuts are preferable.

David D

stirling lad · « **Reply #45 on:** November 11, 2012, 10:07:02 PM »

good idea David, but its not really a problem for us left handers

unless you suffer from........sausage fingers.....

...Mike....

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #46 on:** November 13, 2012, 01:10:49 PM »

Hi Mike.
Didn't realise you were cuddy wifted!

Guess you'll not be needing this 3off, I've made for you......

David D

stirling lad · « **Reply #47 on:** November 13, 2012, 03:03:39 PM »

Cuddy wifted?? never heard that one...corry fisted yes, but cuddy wifted is a new one on me...

You guys probably already all do this anyway but i usually put a slab of scrap wood underneath to stop the chuck trying to fall back off while i fiddle with them wee nuts.. i find it a great help especially with that bigger chuck..

keep the tips coming David, i'm learning all the time.

...Mike...

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #48 on:** November 13, 2012, 03:37:26 PM »

Mike.
Does cack handed make sense to you?

I wouldn't be without me square of old floorboard. It's saved the slideways, several times.......

David D

PeterE · « **Reply #49 on:** November 13, 2012, 04:07:17 PM »

My version of bed protector

A couple of scrap pieces of 6 mm MDF wooden pegged and glued together to avoid scratchy materials.

Also noticed that you must have changed your chuck screws as yours have a non-threaded portion in the middle. Have you also Loctited them (with low strength Loctite) in place in the chuck to avoid them rotating as you fiddle with the nuts?

BR

/Peter

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Author Topic: Gonna Do's......... (Read 59773 times)