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| Stilldrillin:
Hi Andy. I just couldn't be without my mini dro. It's one of those widgets which you make as a novelty...... Then realise it's true worth! :thumbup: Just had another 10 mins making random swarf. It's a much better feed arrangement than the two modes which I've used over the last 8 years! :bang: I've now removed the 80t drive gear........ :) Hi Mike. Hovis accent? Hmmm....... :bugeye: I'm a little further south, than De Dar Land........ :lol: Happy memories of Tony Capstick. Now, no longer with us...... :( Right then. On with the next one..... Back in springtime, someone mentioned, using a plastic spacer to position taper roller bearings, was not right......... Makes sense! :thumbup: So, a swift text, to the long suffering Dave, who still works where I used to...... And 24 hrs later, a nice sized piece of EN something, roughed out bar, arrived. Thanks Mate! Yer a gem..... :wave: Topped it to same dia as the inner race. Then reduced the rest of the dia to clear the 32 tooth, oversize belt pulley....... Bored, to give a nice sliding fit on spindle........ Then sawed off......... Set up as true as..... And faced to finish oal. Keyway clearance....... Looks a little better, I think....... Just, enough room for the belt....... A definite improvement. When setting up the bearing preload. I wind in the locknuts, until any bearing movement has gone. (Checking with 5/8" bar held in chuck jaws), I then lock the two nuts against each other. Which usually gives a little clearance. If there's no movement. I assume the adjustment to be too tight, (whether it is, or not)...... Slacken back, using only the inner nut. Until movement is felt. Then tighten, as little as possible at a time, using only the outer (l/h) nut. I find, on a cold m/c, when set correctly. There is some spindle bearing drag, when hand rotated, in the neutral position. But, after a few seconds of motor rotation, the spindle will rotate freely, by hand. With no bearing movement, even when warm. (It never gets hot)...... The offcut? :scratch: That was made into another spacer, and sent up to Scotland...... :) David D |
| stirling lad:
and its working a treat up here,,thanks David your a star...and chatter is almost eliminated now. I honestly did'nt think it would make much difference but it really has, any chatter i get is coming from other, not so well fitting parts..but with the help and advice i get from your good self, they parts will be fixed too :thumbup: thanks mate.. ...mike... |
| Stilldrillin:
--- Quote from: stirling lad on September 16, 2012, 10:37:45 AM ---and its working a treat up here,, ...mike... --- End quote --- TWO components. Separated by miles an miles. Both working well!! :bugeye: I must be improving, at last....... :) David D |
| stirling lad:
Can i back track a little and ask what the brass bit is on the lefthand side of the plummer block on your lead screw mod?(second photo) as mine just has a fully threaded 8mm rod going through the block to the nut on the r/h side ..:scratch: ..Mike.. |
| Stilldrillin:
Hi Mike. That was my first mod! :smart: I seem to remember, the leadscrew was machined short, between it's thrust face, and the location of the 80t drive gear. :bang: So, I faced up the very rough machined, end of the leadscrew, and added a brass thrust/ spacer washer. Moving the leadscrew some 3mm to the left........ :thumbup: "fully threaded 8mm rod going through the block"...... As in, studding? :scratch: David D |
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