Weston Bye's Clock by Dave

[dreeves]

I figured I would start my build of Weston Bye's Clock. I met Weston in Ann Arbor MI. at the CNC build class. Weston had his clock on display and I thought that his cloce would be a great first project with my new CNC mill. I was speaking with Weston and he offered the Cad file for one of the gears. I took the file to the mill and got started cutting it in corian.
Here is a picture

[dreeves]

Here are a few more pictures of what I have done.

DAve

[Brass_Machine]

Hiya  Dave!

Been awhile... Very nice work on Weston's clock! Anxious to see more of this.

Eric

[George_Race]

Looking really good Dave, keep the pictures coming.
George

[dreeves]

Thanks George and Eric.  I have more pictures to add but ran out of time last night. 

I need to find a better source for the bearings. I found the flanged but not the non flanged ones. George any help with this would be great.

Dave

[Brass_Machine]

Hi Dave

Look forward to seeing more. Weston's clock is on my to do list.

I would also like t hear a little more about your CNC. Looks like it based on the LMS solid column? I bought their conversion kit to convert my x2 to their column... If you get a chance, could you start a thread about it?

Eric

[Weston Bye]

It warms my heart to see the progress that Dave and George and others are making on the clock.  For many like Dave this project is their first CNC project.  Don't let the lack of a CNC mill discourage any of you from building the clock - I built the prototype on a Sherline lathe and manual mill and 4" rotary table.  CNC now does most of my flat work, but the shafts, hubs and such are still manual lathe work.  The series of articles in Digital Machinist was written for manual construction, but the drawings are adaptable to CNC as Dave has mentioned.

Dave,
My source for the bearings (and a lot of other stuff) is McMaster-Carr.  Here is the page:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1148/=j9w7ch
The unflanged bearings are stock #57155K366
Flanged bearings are stock #57155K319

McMaster may have higher prices (not always, though) but they have nearly everything, and they have it in stock.

As long as I am here I might as well put in another shameless plug for the circuit board, kit, or assembly for the clock electronics.  Also the coil winding service. 
Look for me in Vendor's Specials and Announcements section of the BBS.
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,7438.0.html

[dreeves]

Got into the shop today and got alot done. I have most of the parts up to date waiting on the next issue. I still have the rotor to complete. I changed the design to a bolt together rather than a press. I still have some fine tunning to do and may make some new parts. Here is where Im at so far.

Dave

P/S George Im catching you 

[ronginger]

Nice work Dave.

How is the CNC machine working? Have you had any troubles with it? Looks like you have it doing good work.

ron

[dreeves]

Ron,  Its working great. If you see above I was able to make a much bigger part than the machine would do. It took some time and thank god Autocad to make a fixture to do it. Thanks so much for all the help at the Build. I would never be where im at if I did not go. 

Dave

[dreeves]

 I want to thank George Race for cutting my Great wheel from my dxf. George sent me photos of the wheel in progress and it looks great. Thanks again George

Dave

[George_Race]

Hi Dave, happy to help.  I do have a question.  In your last picture above, you show a gear with 6 small tabs around the perimeter.  I don't recognize that piece!

Very nice looking work, by the way,
George

[dreeves]

That is the rotor that has the steel piece pressed on. I changed the design to allow it to be bolted on. Look at the second file i sent you thay are the 2 pieces.

Dave

[dreeves]

 

Im all caught up with all the issues to date with the rotor being cut last night finished tonight . I can't wait till the next issue arrives.

As you will see in the photos I used the heart shape on the aluminum part but added lugs with half cuts to match the steel rotor. The lugs add a 3/16th  inch cutout between the two except at the lugs which I think adds more to look at.

The last photo is of the dampner disk. I spoke with Weston as to if the dampner needed to be solid and he advised that it should work but to make sure that the area where the maginets are be solid.

Here are a few photos