The Shop > Tools
Churchill-Redman CUB MKIII Restoration
Jonny:
They certainly dont make them like they used to. No doubt its seen some use and i am amased how good the geared head looks decades on far better than new chinese stuff.
Churchill made some extremely good surface grinders along with Snow. I did work for the other name for 10 years after the buy out.
Look forward to the rebuild.
sdezego:
agreed, which is why I resisted buy a new "repro" for so long.. Took some more pics of the head after I flushed and cleaned the box :thumbup:
I had some more time, so I proceeded to forge on. When I bought it, the guy had a few machines and this was one of his more recent acquisitions. He was moving, so it had to go. He started to "restore" it, but did not make it very far at all. He did mention that it was shutting down on high speeds and I witnessed it when I bought it, but it did not concern me. Thought it seemed as though it might be just the Cap.
Turned out that that is shed's outlets were piss poor at best and the shagged plug and wiring to the motor were causing the issue. Before I took it apart, I tried it at my house and had no issue.
Now, the orig motor is gone and it was replaced with a Baldor 3/4 hp 1 phase. Orig appeared to come with a 3 phase 2 speed 1 hp motor. Initially, I will run the 3/4, but may re-wire it for 220V as opposed to the 110V currently. I may considering going up to 1Hp if needed, but don't think I will need.
The reason I mention all of this is that I question whether or not he messed with the headstock Timken bearings. So, I decided to check the End play. After Flushing the box and checking try, I was unable to detect any end play what so ever :loco: So, I adjusted to the ~.0002" per the manual. The head spindle seems to turn much better by hand now, so this may have been in part "not helping". I could see on the Lock nut that someone along the way had adjusted it.
Pics, are clickable ;)
sdezego:
I also stripped it down using some aircraft stripper first, then a wire wheel (used a mask just in case the paint was leaded) assume it was.
Then, I gave it a shot of Ospho (sans the ways) and gave it a day to cure.
I also blasted the Aluminum Head stock cover and used some self etching primer (thus the Army Green) on it since AL can be finicky to have paint stick long term. I also used primer on the small parts, but for the rest just painted right over the cured Ospho.
Will give it one more coat tomorrow or the next. Humidity has been through the roof here, so I am not expecting the first coast will dry too quickly.
sdezego:
Haven't been slacking... I have been working in it quite a bit but have run into small snags here and there and am working through them and will post those details along the way.
A lot of Researching and learning. The main thing is checking accuracy, scraping ways due to more wear near the spindle end than I thought, etc.. I will get to this in more detial later.
So, here are some pics that I have just uploaded.
Have not engraved the dial yet, but at least it looks somewhat presentable...
Touched on the belt sander after painting.
sdezego:
Removing the old MT adapter almost got the best of me... It was practically welded in and you can tell the amount of heat I needed to use to get it out.. :hammer:
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