The Shop > Tools

Churchill-Redman CUB MKIII Restoration

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sdezego:
Thanks for the response and you have some very good suggestions.  I haven't thought about using some V blocks, but was working similar to what you described using the saddle.  I like the V Blocks and need a set anyway, so I may go that route to fine tune/double check.

I used some dye, and a precision Starrett 36" straight edge to check and rough scrape the ways.  After initial scraping the ways (initially and not finalized), I got a set of 3/4" precision MT3 Collets and a 36" length of Precision 3/4" Shaft.  Mic'ed the diam, etc and I then used the Saddle to check the height diffs along the bed from the head stock to the tail and then the same for the side.  I adjusted the Tail stock against and needed to shim the height about .008".  Both ended up quite a bit < .001" diff, but I will fine tune with some more precise methods on the saddle and maybe even some precision V blocks (as suggested).

I am going to wait to finalize this though as I tie up some of the other loose ends.  I also need to tailor the Gibs under the way(s) as I know there is some wear there too (@ the headstock).

steamer:
I'd also strongly recommend Connelly's book  "Machine Tool Reconditioning"....I know it's pricey...but it's worth it!

It would take you through the rebuild process.   Also a great cure for insomnia...the writing style is very dry.

Dave
 

sdezego:
Decided to get some more work done, but in other areas to wrap them up.  Completed refinishing the cabinet doors and drawers as well as the side guards, made a piece to repair the Turret tool post and also reinstalled and wired up the motor and switches.

This is the main locking latch for the turret tool post that was broken and frozen up.  I ended up fabbing one up using a good old fiber cut off wheel on a 4" angle grinder for the rough cutting and then some hand files, etc to fine tune it.












I then quench hardened it.

sdezego:
As far as the motor goes, I mentioned that the lathe came with a 3/4hp Baldor 1Ph and the wiring was screwed.  I changed bearings and sorted out the wiring for 220v.

I really was not happy with just wiring it to a switch and not being able to reverse the motor (should the need arise).  So, I decided to do some thinking and came up with a scheme.  Use a Double Pole single throw switch "DPST" for the main power switch.  I also thought to use a 3PDT switch to allow for reversing.  2 of those poles would be used to reverse the directional motor wiring.  I decided to use the 3rd pole in series from the main On/Off switch to activate a double pole Relay/Contactor.  The reason for doing this was 2 fold.

1.) It allows you to use the 3PDT switch (on-off-on) solely during operation.  So when the switch is in FW and you switch it to off (in the middle position), it cuts main power to the motor via the contactor.  Then switching the switch to REV, reverses the motor directional wiring and reActivates the 2 pole contactor thus power the motor again.  No Need to shut the main power switch off first then changing direction on the second switch and then powering back on from the main.

It should be noted that this motor does not have a brake, so technically, it must stop before reversing (or come close) so that you do not burn out the start winding.

2.) I can easily wire in an Emergency Stop switch now via breaking power to the relay/contactor.  These seem to be pretty pricey, so I opted not to get one just yet.  I will do so when the lathe is fully operational.


I extended the motor's directional wiring to the switch described above.






You can see the Relay/Contactor before mounting.




Notice how the top and bottom 2 poles are cross linked to reverse the directional wiring.  The center Pole(s) are used to activate the 120v Relay/Contactor from the main power switch.




Mounted in orig face panel




Works like a DREAM!

sdezego:
Time for an update I suppose.

 - Got the Lathe all leveled in it's final resting place
 - Ran 220v power along with a 110v box above it
 - finished all of the painting and misc
 - Replaced the Motor Cap as someone had the wrong one in there and it was acting flakey at times
 - Finished scraping the ways, etc
 - Made a Chip guard (should resemble Rob's somewhat  :wave:)
 - Used the lathe to make some pieces/parts even though I am not done with it...

To Do's

 - Make new Apron Gear
 - Replace apron shaft Bushings
 - Button apron assy up


Nothing Fancy here, but just showing the completed control panel with the main ON/OFF and the Double Throw switch to handle both FW/REV using the electrical contactor relay described/shown above.




I have zero sheet metal tools and didn't feel like making or buying any as I rarely have the need.  So, I was going to make it out of steel, but I got creating with Aluminum and glad I went this route.  Off the top of my head, I used very thin AL for the main (guessing like 1/16"), thicker for the end plates (1/8-3/16") and some used angle.

My High Tech AL saw..



I used the thicker ends for support and because I wanted to cut a thin channel to make bending a breeze (cheater)  :thumbup:











I had to use the bench with some angle iron and clamps for the big bends.  It's not perfect, but I am happy with how it came out.  I also TIG'ed up the channel corners and some minor stitch work on the rear seams.  But, it is Riveted for the most part.








Some organizing to do around it...




Time to get the Apron in order.

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