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Churchill-Redman CUB MKIII Restoration

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sdezego:
So, as mentioned above, I started working one the carriage.  When I went to install and shim the Lower guide plates (that sit below the ways), I noticed that there was definitely some wear.  I noticed that when I removed some shims, the carriage was fine toward the headstock, but got really tight (could not move) when sliding it toward the tail.  Bottom line is that I guess that a lot of the turning took place near the headstock as you might expect.

Looks as though there was about .008" or so difference from end to end which I think is significant.  At first, I thought the wear was from the Guide plates beneath, but that did not make much sense.



So, I started scraping the ways on the last 1/4 near the tail stock to true it up and it became somewhat evident.  I am awaiting on a few items to finish it up and fine tune it and then will proceed to check the headstock alignment (hopefully that is all that is needed) and align the tailstock.  Then off to reassemble the rest and start cutting.  I will post more on what I am doing here...  I am in unchartered waters, but I think I will be ok.  Let's just say, I don't think that I have under thought the process  :smart: However, I am open to any and all suggestions of do's and don'ts!

I also need to clean up the MT3 (mostly in the tail stock), so I ordered up a finishing reamer to do so.

sdezego:
Since I removed all shims and the guide/wear plates still do not remove all of the play, I am going to need to improvise here.  My two thoughts were:

1.) Mill down the guide plate a bit more where it mounts to the carriage, so the wear strip takes up the space to the way (would go a few thou extra and then use shim stock to adjust).
2.) Remake those guide/wear plates on both sides of the carriage our of some bronze flat bar.  I ordered some, but not sure if I will get too much wear too quick as the std was just steel plate.  I would make the bronze lap further onto the bottom of the way as the factory left a decent sized gap and has only a fairly small contact surface. 

Thoughts?



I know most of the pressure when turning is downward on the carriage to the top of the V, but I assume that it is best to tighten up the clearance to prevent any carriage shifting?

When I am all said and done, I want this thing dialed in as if it were new (or close to it)!

sdezego:
Either everyone is cringing in their seats and keeping a tight lip or I am somewhat on the right track :laugh:

I took a slight break on the ways, but they are pretty close to where I am happy with them.  A bit more and I will call it a day.

I started working on the motor.  I mentioned that when I bought the lathe, the owner had it a brief period and was going to restore and never used it.  He claimed the motor was shutting down when the lathe was on higher spindle speeds.  I wanted to wire it up for 220v, so I proceeded to find a diagram on the interwebs (since the sticker and Cap cover was long gone).  On Baldor's, site and others, I finally found one for this 3/4 1P model, but the connection board was not the same.  ...and the wiring did not appear to jive with what was on paper or on coincide with the 110v plug that was previously connected to the lathe and looked like it had been for a while.

Since I was replacing the bearings anyway, I took it all apart and traced back all of the wire numbers to the back of the connection board.  As it turns out, the motor WAS wired for 220v, even though it had a 110v plug  :hammer:  My guess is that it was hard wired before the prev owner and the wire was cut from the box when sold, so the guy I bought it from just decided to stick a 110v plug based on the wire colors (white, black and green)...   :loco:  In the States, this is typ for Low Voltage, not High Voltage.

Anyway, got it wired up to 220v and ran it for a while, so all appears well.  I also ran extra leads to be able to reverse the motor and tested that out (it works).  The motor is not internally braked, so I am leery about using a reverse switch since the motor must come to rest before switching rotation.  I may just make it hard to do so for the rare times I want to reverse the motor.  I also need to finalize switches, etc in the control box and want to add back a panic stop.

Lots of words and no pics.  I will update with some pics soon :)

Shawn

RotarySMP:
Hi Shawn,

I would like to say you are doing a fantastic job, but noticed you have missed a few bits while painting.

According to Ebay lathe sales, you forgot to paint the handles, knobs, drive belts and gear teeth. Overspray on the bed is also a common standard  :Doh:

Great work. good to see quality iron being improved and kept in service.

steamer:
Hi Shawn,

Wear in the saddle can be expected, but its most probably wear in the ways your seeing.
Do you have a precision level?  ( .0005"/12")   If the V ways are 90 degree, you can use standard matched V blocks and meausure the wear in the ways with the level.

Alternatively, if the ways are not 90 degree V's, or you don't have the matched V blocks,  you can use the saddle instead.   With the lathe leveled, with a precision level, Move the saddle to the Tailstock end and level up the level with a shim on one side.   No slowly move the Saddle towards the headstock and note the variation as you go ( do not touch or move the level!  just the saddle itself while it carries the level) ....say every 6".....right the variation down on the ways or on a sketch so you can keep track.  This will map the twist in the ways with respect to the way leveling surfaces,   from there you can start to make some decisions based on that.

Dave

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