Expensive welding helmets - Worth it?

[loply]

Hi folks,

I have a cheap unbranded auto-darkening welding helmet that's served me well for some time.

Recently when I've been TIG welding it has failed to darken a few times, usually because my head was at the wrong angle and the sensor didn't pick up the arc.

I realise this is user-error and not the helmet playing up, but, the thing is also cosmetically a bit knackered.

Is it worth spending £120ish to get the cheapest SpeedGlas branded welding helmet, rather than £40 for another Chinese one?

I've read that the parts are made in the same factories and are identical, but I'm interested in opinions from anybody who has used both?

Cheers,
Rich

[mattinker]

I have had a quit few self darkening helmets now, but the one that I've used the most and been the most pleased with I "won" on eBay.us for $20 (nearly doubled with the postage). I don't have any other means of judging the quality other than my experience, I use it daily for my job and it just keeps on (seven years now)! I'd love to know more about whether or not the lenses are the same. The more expensive ones that I have used were during an aluminium welding course. They were heavier, had better more comfortable head fittings, but welding looked the same from the inside.

Regards, Matthew

[lordedmond]

Rich

there is only one choice

How much do you value your eyesight ?

is it worth getting a good helmet or not


Stuart

[loply]

Rich

there is only one choice

How much do you value your eyesight ?

is it worth getting a good helmet or not


Stuart

If they come from the same factory then it's not worth it, no.

That's what I'm trying to find out

Lord knows there are plenty of instances where a product is priced by the brand name, not the quality of the components.

Cheers,
Rich

[TroyO]

Rich

there is only one choice

How much do you value your eyesight ?

is it worth getting a good helmet or not


Stuart

That is kind of a simplistic response.... which is the good one? You never say.... just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's good. Look at the Ford Mustang.  ;-)

Seriously, my choice may also differ depending on exposure time.... you can measure my likely welding time in minutes a year.... if it were hours a day the answer would be different.

[doubleboost]

Hi
I use a speed glass helmet i bought it a few years ago it was £ 180 then
It is great for MIG  but ocasionally it goes bright when TIG welding
A slight reposition of mr head solves the problem
I have a cheap one at work  (£40) that works fine for MIG but never tried it on TIG
John

[AdeV]

I got a Sif Lite XA1000F a couple of years back, I've used it with MIG and TIG, it's never failed to darken yet despite only getting relatively infrequent use. Biggest problem is it goes dark if you look at the striplight above the bench, but I think they'd all do that.

It only cost me buttons as well (about £30 IIRC).

[ieezitin]

My two pennies worth.

The real expensive ones have the lenses made by the same people as the cheepy ones. I have a Lincoln Electric Fuse with the latest lens, it sports No flip grind feature that just is plane trash, 5 or 6 darkness settings to which i only use one the wide glass is nice though but you are forced to keep paying for the helmet if this one falls to pieces. The price of this helmet was $310.00 dont know what the pounds are.

I have owned the less expensive ones and they have lasted, in fact i found one that blew off a truck on a motorway and i stopped and picked it up used it for about 4 years and it sported this beautiful rich blue shade the likes of which i can buy again. my only advice is nothing wrong with buying a cheap one but pay attention the the helmet itself, it should be lite in weight and the band should be strong and not slip while you weld, plus it should not grip your forehead and leave marks like someone just hit you with a pillow case full of one inch spanners inside.  comfort is the most important thing while welding.

the reason why some of you have had the shade come on while tigging maybe down to a hairline crack in the glass you may want to check your lenses. and or the battery maybe low.

Hope this helps.

Anthony

[BiggerHammer]

I have had a Speedglass utility hood for years. It will also lighten if you are not in a good position while tig welding. This has occurred with a relatively new helmet. I would suggest one of the hoods with more than two sensors. For some odd reason I now need to wear bi-focal glasses and have swapped back to the old school hood with a weak cheater lens. Since my eyes were poo before I began welding I doubt the reason for the bi-focal need is limited to welding. Possibly excessive reading has caused it. I know it can't be anything to do with age, though they say the first 40 years of childhood are the most difficult.

[sdezego]

I have done quite a bit of research on this a while back.  From what I found, most of the Sensors and lenses come from the same place (you know) regardless if the hood/helmet states it is made is USA or other Country...  Look as the specs for the helmet response time, etc as that can distinguish between cheap crap and inexpensive.  Also, I would recommend you get a dual adjustable (however, I am pretty sure that most are now a day).  I personally would really avoid Ebay as you should be able to find a good quality helmet locally and will know what you get.  ...that's just me though.

I had a Cheap 1st gen Auto Dark helmet (single Adj only) and the second time it did not auto darken (after a couple of years), I did the research and bought a new one.  I (in the US) was looking at the Miller, Snap-on, Lincoln, etc.  I found a Helmet from Lowes, of all places, (which is a sort of building and supply company that has their own "branded" tools for those not in the US).  The lens and sensor is comparable if not the exact same as all of the very expensive ones I researched.  In fact, side by side it is impossible to tell the difference with one or more of the afore mentioned brands.  In research SpeedGlas and Jackson Helmets (USA) seemed to be revered as the best of the best, but being and engineer, I would need to see proof as to why they warrant 3x the price and I could not find it in the tech specs.  I would love to see data on why I am wrong.

Anyway, After using my new one for about 2 years, I can say it is awesome.  The Response time is instant and it has never let me down (TIG, Mig etc).  Even in different lighting conditions..

Now, with all that said, a dirty outer lens (from splatter, etc) can/will cause sensor issues (regardless of how expensive of an auto darkening helmet).

Regards,
Shawn

[shipto]

When I first got my job (about 12 years ago) they already had speedglass helmets and there is one part of my job where they would regulary fail to darken, luckily it is a arms length spot which I can only just see so arc eye was never a issue.
Then whe we moved to a new building I needed one with air facility too so we brought a esab and that one has never failed to darken even doing the spot i mention above.
the speedglass had two little sensors either side of the glass the esab however has one sensor that goes all the way across the glass.
the esab was only more expensive because we had the air facility option on it they are cheaper in basic form I believe.
so I would suggest looking at the sensors rather than the price.

[John Stevenson]

Not had a lot of experience with masks although I do a lot of welding, had this mask about 8 or 9 years now, no idea what make.

One thing I'd like to mention IF it's still a current point was that when I needed a new mask the welding suppliers sent one out that used batteries, it was useless, they supplied two more before they sent a solar powered one and this has been good.

Don't know if they still do the battery versions but my experiences of them wasn't good.

[PTsideshow]

Biggest thing when choosing a helmet for TIGing is read the spec's most will clearly state that they aren't good for a low powered arc. most under 5 volts and they will not work.
The second item is the number and position of sensors. the more the better and spread across the face and above and below the window, no matter what size it is. All things being equal. yes according to most sources again the operating parts are made by the same couple of factories. They also have to meet certain standards and all that are imported into to the states should meet or exceed ANSI Z87.1-2003 Standard the new and old standard
http://www.aws.org/technical/facts/FACT-31.pdf
Here in the US the cheaper import helmets are not rated for tigging.
I have a harbor Freight solar one, they do have back up safety batteries, these state they last about 5-6 years.
I also have a expensive Miller hat for TIGging.
I use the HF one as everyday and if I break it I go buy another one with out any pain.
 

[mechman48]

Hi,
An aside question from one who's grey matter is getting slower these days; I am fairly well up on abbreviations/acronyms eg. PITA (pain in the a**se), SWMBO (the boss) etc, but I am at a loss as to what IIRC is.. would appreciate some enlightenment.. could it refer to..  ? ? Reasonable Condition.. 

TIA
George

[spuddevans]

I am at a loss as to what IIRC is.. would appreciate some enlightenment.. could it refer to..  ? ? Reasonable Condition.. 

I think it stands for "If I Recall Correctly"  (although I could be wrong, it has happened once or twice before  )


Tim

[AdeV]

Hi,
An aside question from one who's grey matter is getting slower these days; I am fairly well up on abbreviations/acronyms eg. PITA (pain in the a**se), SWMBO (the boss) etc, but I am at a loss as to what IIRC is.. would appreciate some enlightenment.. could it refer to..  ? ? Reasonable Condition.. 

TIA
George

Sorry, Tim is quite correct, it means If I Recall correctly or If I Remember Correctly.

HTH, HAND, YMMV!

(Hope that helps, Have a nice day, Your mileage might vary! DAMHIKT!)

((Don't ask me how I know this!))

OK, that's quite enough of that - ed

[spuddevans]

HTH, HAND, YMMV!

(Hope that helps, Have a nice day, Your mileage might vary! DAMHIKT!)

((Don't ask me how I know this!))

OK, that's quite enough of that - ed

You forgot TANSTAAFL  (There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch)

Tim

[mechman48]

 
Thanks guys  ; didn't know such a plethora existed, a couple more new ones to remember, will have to gee up the grey matter 

George

[PekkaNF]

I write content that people would RTFM!

Related to subject, I.m rather happy with this one:
http://webshop.industriacenter.fi/product/26/hitsausmaski-euromaski-din-10-esab

No need to nod can peep under visor and can lift visor up for grinding or such and still my pretty face is protected. I do mainly stick and sometimes 250A MIG. I'm still happy with this one, but maybe I'll buy something better when it comes along...I'm just waitting prices of filter/motor masks to come down. Don't know really a english name for those masks that have fresh air blown around your face.

Pekka

[AdeV]

A professional welder friend of mine prefers his non-auto-darkening helmet - and he's using it 8 hours a day, 5 1/2 days/week. His has a glass lens in it, which, he says, lasts forever compared to the plastic screens on most (all?) auto-darkening hats.

Personally, I prefer the auto-darkening one - it means I can stop, see where I've gone wrong, and start up again without having to move my head 

[mattinker]

AdeV,

What does he mean by the glass lenses lasts forever? It's pretty amazing, but plastic lenses don't get splatter stuck in them where as glass lenses do!

I hope your MIG welding when you stop and start! If you do that stick welding, you'll have slag problems!

Regards, Matthew

[AdeV]

Hi Matthew,

I'm not sure - I'll ask him at the weekend. I think its something to do with the plastic ones going cloudy, but I'll find out for sure.

I've never done stick welding, only mig & tig.

[PTsideshow]

He is referring to the shade lens which are colored glass and if they don't get dropped they will last forever. The plastic multilayer screens of the AD helmets. Which tend to delaminate, split at the corners or the ones that have non replaceable batteries, or chip or board problems. The screen is replaceable as a package unit. they have a number of price point units. the number of sensors and whether they have replaceable batteries.

Import Chinese AD hat that quit working after 5½ years working life is 5 to 6 years.

The inner workings with the soldered in batteries.
I saved the hardware and pitched the shield, went and bought another one to use for an everyday type MIG and stick hat. I have a big bucks Miller elite for TIG welding. Low single digit voltage response for TIG. The imoprts and others will have in the specs whether they work for TIG or not.

[mattinker]

I asked the question as I was very reluctant to move on to the "new fangled" helmets, partly because of my bi-focal lenses, and just plain stubbornness, stupid of me, but I'm human! I am completely converted.

Regards, Matthew

[PTsideshow]

Some people don't like them and never will. Here some people have every excuse they cam make to not use one of the import ones.Well it is coming out now that even the name brand and the more expensive ones are made by the same factories.
The biggest thing is you have to read the spec's about whether the AD can be used for TIG welding or not. Also whether it can be used for out of position welding(overhead etc.) Has to do with the number and thier location on the screen shade assembly. Check your local welding supply to see if they have what are called cheater(here US) lens for the fixed shade helmets.
Some people that do were glasses,claim that they now love the AD's as they don't have to keep removing and replacing them. Personal choice is always good, and you may end up deciding that it works for you.