Building Stuarts Compound Steam Engine

[Ray]

Really shaping up nicely.  Keep up the good work.
 
Ray

[NickG]

Yeah nice work Benni, you've been ploughing on with this.   

Looking at peoples builds with castings, I'm a bit confused as to how I'd tackle it ... what to mill and clean up and what to leave as cast finish. I guess if you don't clean it up it may look like holes are off-centre etc. Is it possible just to machine the critical dimensions and leave the rest or are the model castings not really good enough for that?

Cheers,

Nick

[saw]

Thanks for nice komments Ray and NickG
NickG, I think there is two sides of youre question, some builders wants there model be very smoth and nice and other wants to show it's a casting. I am between those ideas. I want a nice and smoth model but at the same time I want to show that this model is an casting. Yes you can build a model and only machine the critical parts and it will work good, but comeing so far, I belive that you want some bling too, right?   

[NickG]

Yeah you're right, it's a balance otherwise the model could end up looking a bit average with too many cast surfaces I guess.

[Don1966]

Benni you are do a great job on the compound. I have been reading you progress quietly. Love all your photos, just keep them coming. I am in the process of building Ruby,s Marine Compound forward and aft engine. Need ll the help I can get.

Don

[saw]

Hello Gentlemen!
Thanks for nice comments.

Cylinder block
Now when I have got my new tools, it’s time to move on with the cylinder block.
As you can see on the picture there is much material to remove.




The first thing is too straight up the bottom so I have something to work from…



… and with an end mill it is done radar quickly.



I did the top at the same time and finish off with a fly cutter.




Then both sides…



… and even here I finish off with the fly cutter.



Then some more work with the end mill.


I took this photo true my magnifying lamp, when I marked up for the columns…


…and I can see that the column fits very well with my smaller nuts.


Here I marked up the centerline…


…and I can use my new tool, the boring head. I began with the HP cylinder.


Then reaming the cylinder…


…and honing the cylinder.


Then it’s time for the LP cylinder.


Reaming, this time I have to use my lathe…


After horning the LP cylinder I marked out the hole for the drain cocks, then drilled and threaded.


I feel radar pleased so far. 



Now I have to take care of the steam exhaust …


…and with an end mill I finish the steam passage.


So far so good, but it’s still long way to go. 



The cylinder block was radar hard to do, many dimensions that must fit, and everything have to bestraight, but I think that I have manage that…   
I’ll be back.


 



 

[PeterE]

Really nice work on the cylinder block Benni! 

BR

/Peter

[NickG]

Nice work Benni, probably the most difficult and expensive part to make. You've done a great job on it ... I haven't tackled anything that complex from stock yet, let alone a casting 

Nick

[saw]

Top Covers
Hello Gentlemen
Thanks PeterE and NickG for nice feedback.

Now it’s time to take care of the top covers. There are two, one for the HP cylinder and one for the LP cylinder.

 
After the set up in the lathe, I clean up the bottom side, and the edge that fits in the cylinder.

 
Then turn around and clean the edge…

 
…and after a special setup I did the top side of the covers.

 
Here I have done both HP and LP top cover.

 
Now I have to find the middle of the centerline between HP and LP cylinder.

 
When that is done I market out for the hole…

…and drilled / threaded. Then I marked a line with a center drill because this material has to remove.

 
Then in the round table I center drilled / drilled and finish off with an end mill.

 
Then I placed on the cylinder block and drilled the hole.

 
Then threaded the hole…

 
…and check so it fits well.

 
Then I remove some material so the two covers fits together…

 
…and with some adjustment it will do.

 
And this is how it looks so far.

 
One big step for me, a small step for the Compound. 

I’ll be back.

[Stilldrillin]

I feel radar pleased so far. 

So you should Benni!  Good work, you have done there....... 

One big step for me, a small step for the Compound. 

I’ll be back.

A giant step forward, making a beautiful engine......

David D

[NickG]

Nice 1, I thought you'd made a boo boo and put a horrible gouge in it at one point, didn't realise the covers shared a bolt 

Very nice, looks lovely 

[saw]

Bottom Covers

Hello Gentlemen.
Thank you NickG and Stilldrillin for very nice comments.


The story goes on, now it’s time for the bottom covers.

 
First I set up the casting in my lathe…



 
…and clean the edge and make sure that the dimension is correct.

 
I then clean up the bottom and center drilled…

 
 
---and drilled and reamed the hole for the piston rods.

 
After that I’ll use an end mille so I could get a seat for road glands for the piston rod.

 
Here is the bottom of the HP and LP bottom cover finish.

 
No the other side of the bottom cover, some turns on the lathe and its finish.

 
The finish bottom cover.

 
Now I have to find the centerline and the middle between the HP and LP cylinder…

 
…and then drill a hole.

 
Now I have the distance so I can continue on my round table.

 
After drilling and easy using an end mille both cover is now finish.

 
Then I marked up where to drill on the cylinder block.

 
Then threading the hole...

 
...and mount the studs.

 
After that I remove some materials so the covers fit together.

 
And then I have to check so I could mount the bottom cover to the cylinder block.

 
And now the machine has both hats and pants on. 

 
Both the top cover and the bottom cover were a little tricky to maintain, but I took my time and so far I can’t see that I have done some wrong.  I hope that I never got to see that… 

I’ll be back.
 

[NickG]

Nice work Benni, the only one thing I may have possibly done the other way around was to drill and ream the piston rod holes at the same time as you turn the register - only because that way you're not relying on the run out in your lathe to get them concentric - however, doing it my way, you cant do the counterbore for the gland at the same time as the hole, so guess you can't have it both ways anyway.

I reckon it'll be fine, a chuck is usually within a thou or two so you'll probably just give enough clearance on the hole size.

 

[Stilldrillin]

Nicely explained Benni!   

Hope all fits together ok...... 

David D

[doubleboost]

Very nice work 
I do like a marine engine 
John

[saw]

Thanks for very nice comments.
NickG
I am sure that there is many way's to do this operation but this is the only way I know and it seams to work. 

David D
Yes I hope so, so far there is no error but it's to earley to say yet. 

John
Yes I do to I realy loves this tyoe of steam engine. 

[saw]

Crosshead_Guides
Hello Gentlemen.
Now it’s time for the crosshead guides.
The crosshead guides serves to connect the bottom covers to the bracket and allow the crosshead to run in a groove for guiding the connecting rod so it runs straight.   

The crosshead guides is made of steel.

 
First I have to part of the steel plate and mark up for the hole…

 
…and then drilled to the right size.
 

Then find the centerline and mark it…

 
…and mille the track.

 
Here I have done both crosshead guides.

 
Next job is to mill the underside of the bottom cover so I got the accurate measure. ..

 
...and drill the hole for the crosshead guide.

 
Then threading the bottom cover…

 
…and drilled the bracket…

 
 
…and threading again.

 
Then mount the crosshead guides between the bottom cover and the bracket.

 
Now it looks like my Compound has got his suspenders…

 
These operations took some time but whom is in hurry… 

I’ll be back

[NickG]

Coming along very nicely 

[rleete]

Quite impressive, and a really nice job with the pics and writeup.

[saw]

Drain Cocks.
Hello Gentlemen.
Thank you rleete and NickG for nice comments.
You may think I'm a little crazy but I have decided to continue this building blog with the drain cocks.
This drain cock is a tip from my Canadian friend Mr. John Bentley.

The drain cocks are very important equipment for the live steam engine. Its main task is to prevent the water stays in the cylinder, so it must be opened on when you start the machine, and then close it. Similarly when to stop the machine, you have to open to prevent water stay left in the cylinder.
First I start up with a brass bar and a small drawing how the body should be…

…then some turn on the lathe for the threading…

…and then I did the threading.

Then I drilled a hole …

…and some more turns on the lathe so I got this shape.

Here I test so the threading is correct.

And here I have done all four of them.

In the drill I needed to find the center…

…and then the middle…

…then drill the hole.

Of silver steel I made a tapered reamer so I can have a tapered hole…

 …and finish off with a bottom pin for a fine surfers.

Here are the finish bodies.

And now I have to deal with the plug, first in the lathe and run a few turn for the threading…

…and for tapping...

…and some more turns on the lathe…

…then threading.

Then I have to check so the plug fits well in the body.

Then I have to bend it with some heat.

Then I have to make some washers, springs and nuts.

Then I mount the drain cock and put it in the drill so I can drill true the plug.

And here all of the drain cocks are mounted on the cylinder block.


This was a very fun equipment to make not so hard to do, but very small.

I’ll be back.

[krv3000]

hi cuming a ling niceley i love them valve coks

[NickG]

Nice method there, good result 

[saw]

Hello Gentlemen and thanks for nice feedback. 
 
Pistons, pistons road and cylinder glands.

Now it’s time to take care of the heart of the steam engine, the powertrain. It’s about the pistons, the piston road and the cylinder glands.
Pistons:
The pistons are casting in very good quality.

 
The first thing I did, was setting it up in the lathe and took some turn to flatten the top.


Then some more turns to make the 45 degree angle
And then I did the edge.


 
Next I drilled and threaded for the pistons road.


 
And then turn the casting round and turn the edge, bottom and inside of the pistons.


Then I made a little mandrill so I could mount the piston. Then turn the piston down to the correct dimension and then cut the track for the piston rings.
 


 
And here I have done the both pistons.

Piston road
The piston roads are made from silver steel…

 
…and have to cut off in a proper length and turn down in the both ends for threading.


 
Then I have to cut down a little bit so that threading fits the piston.

 
This was a very easy job and it also fits the piston well.

 
Cylinder glands.
The cylinder glands are made of bronze…

 
…and first I have to use a hacksaw to cut it in two pieces.

 
Then in the lathe some turns so I have a good surfers and then center drill, drilled and threaded so I can mount it on a mandrill and finish of the bottom side.
   

 
Next I have to mark and drill the holes for mounting the glands to the bottom cover.

 
Then I set up the cylinder, bottom cover and gland on the mill for drilling and threading.

 
And then testing so the glands fits well.

 
After a bit of filling and emery cloth, then back to the lathe for drilling and reaming.

 
And again check so it fits well.

 
And now another piece is finish on my compound.

 
She is beginning to look radar pretty, isn’t she? 
I’ll be back

 

[Stilldrillin]

She is beginning to look radar pretty, isn’t she? 

Very pretty Benni! 

Shaping up, very nicely...... 

David D

[saw]

Crossheads
Hello Gentlemen.
Thanks Stilldrillin for nice comments.
Today I continue with the crosshead, not a major update but a very important part of the engine.
The crosshead is connected between the piston road and Connecting Rods and in a groove in the Crosshead Guides.
The crosshead is a very fine casting made of bronze.


I began with a setup on my mill, and square the part.

 
Here I have done all of the four side of the crosshead.

 
Then I move the crosshead to the lathe and make the connecter for the Piston Road.

 
After center drill, I have to drill a hole…

 
…and threading for the Piston Road.

 
So far I’ll get this.

 
Then some more turns on the lathe for that part that fits the groove in the Crosshead Guides and  then drilling/treading.

 
And now I can check so I know that it fits well.

 
Next drilling for the hole to the Connection Road…

 
…and then I have to mill the edges straight.


And after some filling and polish I’ll get this.

 
Mounted on the engine, the backside looks like this…


…and then the other side.

 
Even this miner update was little tricky because all dimension has to be correct and the angel must be straight, in other words I have to do some small adjustment but now I am pleased.   
 
I’ll be back.