Building Stuarts Compound Steam Engine

[saw]

 Building Stuarts Compound Steam Engine
Hello Gentlemen.
It was a while ago sense I have built something, in fact nothing sense I finish my D10. I have been full up with a lot of other activity..
For a while ago I manage to get my hands on a Stuarts Compound casting, it’s impossible to buy from Stuart Turner so I was very pleased to get my hands on this for a good price.

This casting is radar old I believe from 1980 but looks radar god, so now I am going to put up a building log here, I hope that you will like it   

[Rob.Wilson]

Evening Benni

I will be tuning in for this build  ,, the castings do look good quality 



Rob

[krv3000]

yep i will be tund in to this to

[Don1966]

I am in on this built. I want to build a compound engine so I am in till the end.

Don

[Dan Rowe]

Any marine engine will get my attention for sure, I have some old Stuart kits that will make it to the bench sometime so it will be fun to watch this build.

Dan

[Don1966]

There is a built on http://compound.modelengines.info/ on the compound launch you made be interested in. Still following with interest.

Don

[saw]

The Soleplate
Hello gentlemen.
Thanks for nice comments, I know that this project will take a long time for me to build, but who is in hurry?
Don1966: Yes I know this gentleman, in fact it’s thanks to Mr. John R. Bentley that I found this casting.The first picture shows the Soleplate from the top..

..and the next from the bottom.

The first thing was to use a flat file to smooth over the bottom. Then check out where all the holes, and fixes the midline. After that some work in the mill




I was using a center drill to mark out the midline, and then I have to drill for the columns.
..and threading for the columns


After that I have to drill the whole for the main bearings and smooth the surface.


And even some milling on the edges

 And the bottom.



 Then it’s was necessary to use a flat file emery cloth and a bit polish.

So far I am quite happy with the result  .  I have measured and measured again, but things seem to measure up. The soleplate is very important, everything here  must be correct otherwise I think I will have some problem.. 
I’ll be back.   

 
 

 

[doubleboost]

Hi Benni
You are off to a good start 
I do like marine engines
Looking forward to future installments 
John

[NickG]

Hi Benni, looking forward to this one too, bit different from the norm. Wish I could get my hands on some cheap castings as I am keen to have a go at some, however the price seems to have shot through the roof in recent years!

Nick

[Alan Haisley]

Benni,

This looks like you will have a lot of fun with the build. I'm tagging along to share in it. 

Alan

[saw]

Hello gentlemen.
Thanks for nice feedback, it always helps to make the project just a bit better when feedbacks are dropping in.
Columns.
Now it’s time for the columns, there are five and made of mild steel. According to Mr. John R. Bentley, it would be nice to make some small modifications comparing to Stuarts drawing.
They want to have 2BA on both ends, but I am threading 2BA on one end and the other with 4BA because the nuts will be too big with 2BA.


With some turns in the lathe will give me the dimensions for threading 4BA.


After all columns were finish I drill and thread the nuts.
 
 
The nuts fit radar good…
 
 
.. and it don’t looks so bad either.
 
 
This was just a small update but..
 
I’ll be back. 

[Stilldrillin]

I'm watching quietly, Benni. 

I have to say your machined surfaces are much brighter than Rob Wilson's...... Well done! 

Good luck with the build..... 

David D

[rudydubya]

A really nice finish on the soleplate Benni.  I'm looking forward to following along with your build.

Regards,
Rudy

[saw]

 Main Bearings
Hello Gentlemen
Thanks fore nice comments
Now it’s time for the main bearings, it’s a little tricky because it’s very impotent that the main bearings are in strait line to the soleplate for the crankshaft. Otherwise it will be a major problem.


The first is to milling the edges…

… and the bottoms.

Then mark out for the center line and the bolt holes.

Drilling the bolt holes…

…and checking that all fits good together.

Then marking up the centerline with a center dub.

Milling the top for the nuts to fits better.

Is it beginning to looks good?

Now with a ¼“ ball nose end mille mile the main bearings for the crankshaft…

…and also the soleplate.

The last is to drill and reaming for full size. I first drill 6.5 mm then 6.8 then reamed for 7.00 mm. Then drilling for 7.5 and 7.8 and finally reamed for 8.0 mm.

And here we go, it begins to looks radar good…
…and all dimensions are perfectly suited.
I feel radar happy so far, but it’s much work to be done before I can see the end…. 
I’ll be back.
 

[NickG]

Hi Benni, I would never have thought of that method for the bearings - unorthodox but looks to have been very effective! Well done

[mzt]

Hi Benni,

I have ideas that Your method of drilling the bearings worked because You went from 1/4" dia. to a round and straight (as much as reamers would do in those fields) 7 mm in light steps.

I had recently tried drilling a (large) split bearing I had bored undersize and then split using the remaing 'oval' as a guide for a larger drill.  --> Scrap
Next one, I tried milling a square groove on the bearing line, into the two halves. --> Scrap again.
What worked for me was milling an identical V groove on both halves of the third workpiece.
Not sure I will try Your method on next occasion. Neither sure I won't, though.

Nice work, btw.  I'll be following this thread.

Marcello

[Stilldrillin]

Those bearings were very nicely done Benni! 

David D

[sbwhart]

Looking good Benni I,ve bin following along quetly 

Stew

[saw]

 The Crankshaft 
ThanksNickG, mzt, Stilldrillin and sbwhart for nice feedback.
You are so right this is not the ordinary way for drilling the main bearings, I tried many different ways and a lot of coffee before I came up with this solution. However it works and that is all that matters, right?

Now to the crankshaft, I am sorry, I use to take a lot of picture, but I have forgot some in the beginning.
I cut off tree pieces of 8 mm silver steel, one 150 mm, and two 19.1 mm. On the small ones I turned down a 4.95 mm long edge to 7 mm at both ends.
Then I cut off four pieces of mild steel...

… and market out and drill two holes, one 8 mm and one 7 mm. I drilled undersize and reamed to correct size.

Then some turns in the lathe so I could get a smooth radio…

… and back to the mil for drilling holes for the pins.

After that I assembled all the pieces...

… and drilled the holes for the pins, mount the pins and soldered the pieces together.


And here we go, we have a crankshaft. I know that many people preform to turn the crankshaft in the lathe, I have tried that a couple of times so I took it safe rather than sorry.

So far so god but… 

I’ll be back

[NickG]

I like that method, same as I used for the 'poppin' flame lickers although I didn't pin as the power of them is so low. Didn't you fancy trying the cast crank then?

Nick

[saw]

The Flywheel.
Hello Gentlemen
Thanks for nice feedback.
 Well, now it’s time for the flywheel. It’s not a tricky part, just a few turns on the lathe.
 First in the lathe, I fix the surface and drilled and reamed the hole for the crankshaft..



…then then half of the outside…



…after I did the same with the other side.
Then drilled and threaded for the stop screw.



After some polish…



Not too bad. This was just a miner update but…   

I’ll be back.

[saw]

Crosshead Guides.
Hello Gentlemen
The update continues, this time it’s the crosshead guide that need to bee done.
It is therefore critical that all dimensions must be exact.



I first begun with the fly cutter for a smooth surface…



… then some milling and …



…drilling and reaming the holes for the columns.




Then milling the radios…



…then drilling…



…and threading for the stop screw.



And now checking…



… and it looks like everything is ok.


Even this was just a miner update, but those things are necessary for the complete engine.
I’ll be back.

[Ray]

That is really looking great.

Ray

[Stilldrillin]

… and it looks like everything is ok.

And.... Everything looks ok from here too, Benni! 

David D

[saw]

Hello Gentlemen.
Thanks Ray Stilldrillin for nice komments.
Oil Cups

You must be wandering what I am up to, but I feel to play around a bit with the oil cups.
Ones again I follow a suggestion from Mr. John R. Bentley  and I am not going to use brass, instead I am using hexagon steel bar.

 
As you can see on my skis, it’s a very simple oil cup, but it will stand out.
So, first in the lathe where I marked out the length and prepare for the threading.

 
Then I threaded the oil cup…

 
… and some deep turns so the threading can go to the bottoms.

 
Then some more turns on the lathe …

 
… so that I can shape the cups.

 
Then drilling a 1 mm hole from the bottom.

 
After cut off I turn the cup around and drilled 4.5 mm hole.

 
And after some clean up I feel radar pleased.

 
And they fit well with the rest of the engine.

 
Again no big update, but now it will take a while before I post something new, I will begin whith the cylinder block.
I’ll be back

[Ray]

Really shaping up nicely.  Keep up the good work.
 
Ray

[NickG]

Yeah nice work Benni, you've been ploughing on with this.   

Looking at peoples builds with castings, I'm a bit confused as to how I'd tackle it ... what to mill and clean up and what to leave as cast finish. I guess if you don't clean it up it may look like holes are off-centre etc. Is it possible just to machine the critical dimensions and leave the rest or are the model castings not really good enough for that?

Cheers,

Nick

[saw]

Thanks for nice komments Ray and NickG
NickG, I think there is two sides of youre question, some builders wants there model be very smoth and nice and other wants to show it's a casting. I am between those ideas. I want a nice and smoth model but at the same time I want to show that this model is an casting. Yes you can build a model and only machine the critical parts and it will work good, but comeing so far, I belive that you want some bling too, right?   

[NickG]

Yeah you're right, it's a balance otherwise the model could end up looking a bit average with too many cast surfaces I guess.

[Don1966]

Benni you are do a great job on the compound. I have been reading you progress quietly. Love all your photos, just keep them coming. I am in the process of building Ruby,s Marine Compound forward and aft engine. Need ll the help I can get.

Don

[saw]

Hello Gentlemen!
Thanks for nice comments.

Cylinder block
Now when I have got my new tools, it’s time to move on with the cylinder block.
As you can see on the picture there is much material to remove.




The first thing is too straight up the bottom so I have something to work from…



… and with an end mill it is done radar quickly.



I did the top at the same time and finish off with a fly cutter.




Then both sides…



… and even here I finish off with the fly cutter.



Then some more work with the end mill.


I took this photo true my magnifying lamp, when I marked up for the columns…


…and I can see that the column fits very well with my smaller nuts.


Here I marked up the centerline…


…and I can use my new tool, the boring head. I began with the HP cylinder.


Then reaming the cylinder…


…and honing the cylinder.


Then it’s time for the LP cylinder.


Reaming, this time I have to use my lathe…


After horning the LP cylinder I marked out the hole for the drain cocks, then drilled and threaded.


I feel radar pleased so far. 



Now I have to take care of the steam exhaust …


…and with an end mill I finish the steam passage.


So far so good, but it’s still long way to go. 



The cylinder block was radar hard to do, many dimensions that must fit, and everything have to bestraight, but I think that I have manage that…   
I’ll be back.


 



 

[PeterE]

Really nice work on the cylinder block Benni! 

BR

/Peter

[NickG]

Nice work Benni, probably the most difficult and expensive part to make. You've done a great job on it ... I haven't tackled anything that complex from stock yet, let alone a casting 

Nick

[saw]

Top Covers
Hello Gentlemen
Thanks PeterE and NickG for nice feedback.

Now it’s time to take care of the top covers. There are two, one for the HP cylinder and one for the LP cylinder.

 
After the set up in the lathe, I clean up the bottom side, and the edge that fits in the cylinder.

 
Then turn around and clean the edge…

 
…and after a special setup I did the top side of the covers.

 
Here I have done both HP and LP top cover.

 
Now I have to find the middle of the centerline between HP and LP cylinder.

 
When that is done I market out for the hole…

…and drilled / threaded. Then I marked a line with a center drill because this material has to remove.

 
Then in the round table I center drilled / drilled and finish off with an end mill.

 
Then I placed on the cylinder block and drilled the hole.

 
Then threaded the hole…

 
…and check so it fits well.

 
Then I remove some material so the two covers fits together…

 
…and with some adjustment it will do.

 
And this is how it looks so far.

 
One big step for me, a small step for the Compound. 

I’ll be back.

[Stilldrillin]

I feel radar pleased so far. 

So you should Benni!  Good work, you have done there....... 

One big step for me, a small step for the Compound. 

I’ll be back.

A giant step forward, making a beautiful engine......

David D

[NickG]

Nice 1, I thought you'd made a boo boo and put a horrible gouge in it at one point, didn't realise the covers shared a bolt 

Very nice, looks lovely 

[saw]

Bottom Covers

Hello Gentlemen.
Thank you NickG and Stilldrillin for very nice comments.


The story goes on, now it’s time for the bottom covers.

 
First I set up the casting in my lathe…



 
…and clean the edge and make sure that the dimension is correct.

 
I then clean up the bottom and center drilled…

 
 
---and drilled and reamed the hole for the piston rods.

 
After that I’ll use an end mille so I could get a seat for road glands for the piston rod.

 
Here is the bottom of the HP and LP bottom cover finish.

 
No the other side of the bottom cover, some turns on the lathe and its finish.

 
The finish bottom cover.

 
Now I have to find the centerline and the middle between the HP and LP cylinder…

 
…and then drill a hole.

 
Now I have the distance so I can continue on my round table.

 
After drilling and easy using an end mille both cover is now finish.

 
Then I marked up where to drill on the cylinder block.

 
Then threading the hole...

 
...and mount the studs.

 
After that I remove some materials so the covers fit together.

 
And then I have to check so I could mount the bottom cover to the cylinder block.

 
And now the machine has both hats and pants on. 

 
Both the top cover and the bottom cover were a little tricky to maintain, but I took my time and so far I can’t see that I have done some wrong.  I hope that I never got to see that… 

I’ll be back.
 

[NickG]

Nice work Benni, the only one thing I may have possibly done the other way around was to drill and ream the piston rod holes at the same time as you turn the register - only because that way you're not relying on the run out in your lathe to get them concentric - however, doing it my way, you cant do the counterbore for the gland at the same time as the hole, so guess you can't have it both ways anyway.

I reckon it'll be fine, a chuck is usually within a thou or two so you'll probably just give enough clearance on the hole size.

 

[Stilldrillin]

Nicely explained Benni!   

Hope all fits together ok...... 

David D

[doubleboost]

Very nice work 
I do like a marine engine 
John

[saw]

Thanks for very nice comments.
NickG
I am sure that there is many way's to do this operation but this is the only way I know and it seams to work. 

David D
Yes I hope so, so far there is no error but it's to earley to say yet. 

John
Yes I do to I realy loves this tyoe of steam engine. 

[saw]

Crosshead_Guides
Hello Gentlemen.
Now it’s time for the crosshead guides.
The crosshead guides serves to connect the bottom covers to the bracket and allow the crosshead to run in a groove for guiding the connecting rod so it runs straight.   

The crosshead guides is made of steel.

 
First I have to part of the steel plate and mark up for the hole…

 
…and then drilled to the right size.
 

Then find the centerline and mark it…

 
…and mille the track.

 
Here I have done both crosshead guides.

 
Next job is to mill the underside of the bottom cover so I got the accurate measure. ..

 
...and drill the hole for the crosshead guide.

 
Then threading the bottom cover…

 
…and drilled the bracket…

 
 
…and threading again.

 
Then mount the crosshead guides between the bottom cover and the bracket.

 
Now it looks like my Compound has got his suspenders…

 
These operations took some time but whom is in hurry… 

I’ll be back

[NickG]

Coming along very nicely 

[rleete]

Quite impressive, and a really nice job with the pics and writeup.

[saw]

Drain Cocks.
Hello Gentlemen.
Thank you rleete and NickG for nice comments.
You may think I'm a little crazy but I have decided to continue this building blog with the drain cocks.
This drain cock is a tip from my Canadian friend Mr. John Bentley.

The drain cocks are very important equipment for the live steam engine. Its main task is to prevent the water stays in the cylinder, so it must be opened on when you start the machine, and then close it. Similarly when to stop the machine, you have to open to prevent water stay left in the cylinder.
First I start up with a brass bar and a small drawing how the body should be…

…then some turn on the lathe for the threading…

…and then I did the threading.

Then I drilled a hole …

…and some more turns on the lathe so I got this shape.

Here I test so the threading is correct.

And here I have done all four of them.

In the drill I needed to find the center…

…and then the middle…

…then drill the hole.

Of silver steel I made a tapered reamer so I can have a tapered hole…

 …and finish off with a bottom pin for a fine surfers.

Here are the finish bodies.

And now I have to deal with the plug, first in the lathe and run a few turn for the threading…

…and for tapping...

…and some more turns on the lathe…

…then threading.

Then I have to check so the plug fits well in the body.

Then I have to bend it with some heat.

Then I have to make some washers, springs and nuts.

Then I mount the drain cock and put it in the drill so I can drill true the plug.

And here all of the drain cocks are mounted on the cylinder block.


This was a very fun equipment to make not so hard to do, but very small.

I’ll be back.

[krv3000]

hi cuming a ling niceley i love them valve coks

[NickG]

Nice method there, good result 

[saw]

Hello Gentlemen and thanks for nice feedback. 
 
Pistons, pistons road and cylinder glands.

Now it’s time to take care of the heart of the steam engine, the powertrain. It’s about the pistons, the piston road and the cylinder glands.
Pistons:
The pistons are casting in very good quality.

 
The first thing I did, was setting it up in the lathe and took some turn to flatten the top.


Then some more turns to make the 45 degree angle
And then I did the edge.


 
Next I drilled and threaded for the pistons road.


 
And then turn the casting round and turn the edge, bottom and inside of the pistons.


Then I made a little mandrill so I could mount the piston. Then turn the piston down to the correct dimension and then cut the track for the piston rings.
 


 
And here I have done the both pistons.

Piston road
The piston roads are made from silver steel…

 
…and have to cut off in a proper length and turn down in the both ends for threading.


 
Then I have to cut down a little bit so that threading fits the piston.

 
This was a very easy job and it also fits the piston well.

 
Cylinder glands.
The cylinder glands are made of bronze…

 
…and first I have to use a hacksaw to cut it in two pieces.

 
Then in the lathe some turns so I have a good surfers and then center drill, drilled and threaded so I can mount it on a mandrill and finish of the bottom side.
   

 
Next I have to mark and drill the holes for mounting the glands to the bottom cover.

 
Then I set up the cylinder, bottom cover and gland on the mill for drilling and threading.

 
And then testing so the glands fits well.

 
After a bit of filling and emery cloth, then back to the lathe for drilling and reaming.

 
And again check so it fits well.

 
And now another piece is finish on my compound.

 
She is beginning to look radar pretty, isn’t she? 
I’ll be back

 

[Stilldrillin]

She is beginning to look radar pretty, isn’t she? 

Very pretty Benni! 

Shaping up, very nicely...... 

David D

[saw]

Crossheads
Hello Gentlemen.
Thanks Stilldrillin for nice comments.
Today I continue with the crosshead, not a major update but a very important part of the engine.
The crosshead is connected between the piston road and Connecting Rods and in a groove in the Crosshead Guides.
The crosshead is a very fine casting made of bronze.


I began with a setup on my mill, and square the part.

 
Here I have done all of the four side of the crosshead.

 
Then I move the crosshead to the lathe and make the connecter for the Piston Road.

 
After center drill, I have to drill a hole…

 
…and threading for the Piston Road.

 
So far I’ll get this.

 
Then some more turns on the lathe for that part that fits the groove in the Crosshead Guides and  then drilling/treading.

 
And now I can check so I know that it fits well.

 
Next drilling for the hole to the Connection Road…

 
…and then I have to mill the edges straight.


And after some filling and polish I’ll get this.

 
Mounted on the engine, the backside looks like this…


…and then the other side.

 
Even this miner update was little tricky because all dimension has to be correct and the angel must be straight, in other words I have to do some small adjustment but now I am pleased.   
 
I’ll be back.
 

[NickG]

Benni,

very nice work it looks really pretty.  One question though, aren't the cross heads meant to be screwed home onto the shoulders of the rods? If not you might get the pistons hitting the top covers. Worth checking that length.

Nick

[saw]

Yes NickG it's very impotante that the lenght is correct. Right now I have only gone after drawing from Stuart but I assume that I need to make some adjustments. 

[NickG]

Yeah, I am sure drawing wouldn't intend it to be like that, have a look on the assembly drawing - I don't think there'll be a gap like on yours. This is where the standard of model engineering drawings fall short or need some interpretation, you can't actually make these things to the drawing and you haven't so far or it wouldn't assemble.

More than likely what's happened is you can't actually get to the bottom of the hole with the tap, so it either needs to be drilled and tapped a little deeper, or the thread on the rod needs shortening or a large chamfer put on the end.

 

[saw]

Wow, it's a miss of me   
...but it's easy to fix. 
Thanks NickG for pointed out 

[NickG]

No problem, I don't think it's an easy task to machine a kit from castings and model engineering drawings - especially if there are no instructions.

For example, if you were to send out parts to different companies to be manufactured, they would not assemble because model engineering drawings aren't well specified enough, it's up to the machinist to interpret what fit is needed where etc.

I've never machined a model from castings yet, I don't think I'd do as good a job as you have - I just happened to notice the gap.

Keep up the good work. 

[saw]

Connecting rod
Hello Gentlemen.
At last I found some time to continue my build of Stuarts Compound Engine. 
This time it’s the connecting rod, and it is a very important part of the engine.
They have to be in straight line, square and the dimension must be exact.
Here is the casting of the connecting road, as you can see there is plenty of material to remove.
 
First I have to square the bottom end with an end mill.
 
And after that I have to draw out and mark where the holes for the crankshaft should be. 

Next I drilled the top and bottom end…
 
 
… and this is for my set up in my lathe.
 
It shows up that this set up was not so good idea, so I changed to this.
 
And now I could finish some parts on the lathe.
 
Then I drilled some holes for the bolt before I partial bottom end in two parts.
 
Then I use  a hacksaw…
 
…and there was two parts of each connecting roads.
 
Next I drilled the hole for the crankshaft.
 
And some more turn on the lathe.
 
This set up looks crazy but it is to help me drilling the holes square for connecting to the crosshead.
 
After that some milling.
 
Here I try to round off the top part.
 
 
And here we go, two connecting roads are finish.
 
And then I mounted the connecting roads on the engine.
 
This was a little tricky to do but another part is finish,  but still there is a lot more to do.
I’ll be back

[andyf]

It's looking really good, Benni 
Andy

[Meldonmech]

Hi Benni
                   What a first class build presentation and so detailed, nearly there now.

                                                            Regards David

[saw]

Steam Chests
Hello Gentlemen. 
Now it’s time to take care of the steam chest. This is a very important piece of the steam engine, it’s truly the heart of the steam engine.
I’ll begin with the cover. The cover has a spigot on the backside so it’s very easy to set up in the lathe.

   
Here I have set up the cover in my lathe for removing the cast skins.

 
After that I move the cover to my mill so I can mill the side in square.
 

Then with a hacksaw I cut of the spigot.

 
Then flatten the backside.

 
Now I have to mark out for all holes…
 

… and drilled the holes and countersink the holes.

 
I feel radar pleased with the result.

 
I’ll continue with the steam chests.
In the lathe I set up the steam chest in a four jaw chuck and took some turn on the top making the valve rod guide…

 
… and the bottom for the packing gland.

 
With a good fill I smooth the packing gland.
Moving over to the mill for milling both sides to the steam chest…

 
Then I milled both sides…

 
… and the insides as well.

 
And now I have four pieces so far.

 
Next, drilling the holes for the valve rod guide…

 
…and then using an end mill for the packing gland.

 
After that I drilled the hole for the steam inlet.

 
A new setup so I could drill the hole into the steam chest.

 
After two holes I’ll use bolt and nuts to hold the two pieces together.

 
And here we go.

 
Then, using the cover I drilled the holes in the cylinder block…

 
…and threaded the cylinder block with help of a top hat.

 
The stem chest with the cover seams to fits very well.

 
Next, the packing glands.

 
First I have to cutting of the pieces…

 
…and the in the lathe for some turns, flatten one side and center drill /drilled a hole.

 
Then I use a spigot so I could turn the other side.

 
Marking for the holes for the stud, then threaded and then drilling through …


 
 
…and after some good work with my fill I have to check so it fits well.

 
No it’s time for the valve roads.

 
After cutting the parts I took some turn in the lathe and threaded the valve roads …

 
…in both end.

 
And now there is to more pieces to the steam chest.

 
Next, the valve.

 
First in the mill I flatted both sides…

 
…trying to have a smooth side on the valve.

 
Then drilled throe …

 
…and then mill a track in the valve.

 
And now two more pieces finish.

 
Then I cut of a piece of bras…

 
…and mark up for a hole to be drilled…

 
…and threaded…

 
…and again check for fitting.

 
Then with a hacksaw and a fill I’ll got this…

 
…and it fits well in the steam chest.

 
And now another piece is finish.

 
This update took some times, it was radar many pieces to make and they have to be accurate, but nothing bad happened so I am very pleased over this update.
I’ll be back.
 

[Stilldrillin]

That's good work you've done Benni! 

Very well shown, too. 

David D

[andyf]

Nice work, Benni!

I see you have been converting all the inch dimensions on the plans to mms. Are you using the nearest ISO metric threads instead of the BA ones on the plans?

Andy

[saw]

Hi and thanks for nice comments.
andyf: No I am using BA but I need to understand the dimensions so I have program in Visual Studio a small program that convert inch to mm. Everything so an old man can build this engine  .

[NickG]

Wow, Benni, that was a huge installment. You seem to be improving with each one, well done - fantastic work 

[DavidA]

Benni,

You are an inspiration !

Most excelent work.

Dave

[NickG]

Benni, just a couple of small things to point out that may help with running. You may already have done but you should lap the valves and port faces of cylinder block on fine wet & dry on a flat surface then with oil in a figure of 8 motion to ensure they are both nice and flat and make a good seal. Also the pocket of the inside of the valves should be an accurate size not left as rough casting. The length and position of the pocket are critical. You may need to size this dependent on how you ports came out rather than go straight from the drawings.

[saw]

NickG: Thanks for coments, I have not lap the valves and portface, but I have not forgot that. I thought that when I have manufactu all pieces I should strip down the whole engine, polish and adjust everything.
About the inside of the valve, I did not know that but now when you tell me, I will do that. Thank you very much NickG to be so accurate. 

[saw]

Eccentric Rods
Hello Gentlemen. 

Now it’s time for the head, that connecting the valve road with the eccentric rods.
A piece of mild still in the lathe…



…and some turns and center drill.
After drilling  and cut off…


…then in the mill some more drilling for connecting to the eccentric rods.


Then with an end mill…


…and it begun to look as a head.


Then some threading for connecting to the valve rods…


…and then finish off with some end mill.


After some work with a good fill and some polish…


…and here is how it looks on the engine. 


Next the eccentric.


First I have to center drill…


…then some turn on the lathe…


…and then turning the small track on the eccentric.


Half way done.


And now a very crazy setup, I was force to use the cuck from my unimat be course   
I was unable to clamp it to the original chuck. 


Center drill…


…and drilled…


… and reaming.


Then drilling and trheading for the stop screw.


And this job was finish…


…and mounted. 


Now the last part, the eccentric rod.


First I have to measure and mark out where to cut and where to drill…


…then drill the hole for the bolts before cutting off the parts.


I’ll then use an end mill so the bolts head could fit better…


…on both side.


Then with my hacksaw I cut the part…


…and threading the bottom part.


Some turns on the lathe…


…and then borring the inside…


…and checking so the hole fits well to the eccentric.

Next I have done a little special for turning the track inside the eccentric rod. 


And again checking the result…


…then back to the mill for milling the surface…


…and then some more milling.


And now some filling and polish…


…and the result…


…and then mounting to the engine. 


Well she is beginning to look like the real thing. It is not so many parts to manufacturing but it’s still long way to go before she’s run.
I’ll be back.
Benni

[Rob.Wilson]

  coming along Very nicely Benni 


Rob

[NickG]

Yep, looks lovely Benni. Not long before you start setting the timing etc- which am not quite sure how on a compound like this. Will be good to see, looking forward to it.