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Harrison L5 rescue
micktoon:
Hi Graeme , glad you are enjoying the project and hope your Centec mill is coming along ok. As far as the painting goes , I am going to mostly spray the lathe and probably roller and brush some tricky parts , like in the webs of the bed, inside the storage cupboards etc.
I have never got very impressive results brushing paint on myself, I know it can be done but doing it yourself is another matter. When I have used the mini rollers I have had the best results with the ones that are more or less like velvet , a very short soft smooth surface , I think they might be meant for emulsion paint ? , the pound shop type ones seem to leave bits of fluff all over but if you get a half decent one and roll quite slowly they work well , I have used the foam type but they either seem to sort of expand and melt with the paint or leave lots of little bubbles that pop and leave marks. I did the metal frame with the foam type and its ok for the metal frame but not that smooth really, if you see it close up.
Two tips I have found out are , You can sometimes roller the paint on then once its covered evenly and still wet, if there are say small bubbles or roller marks , you can gently go over it with a soft brush lighly, just dragging across the surface and it smooths out quite well. Or if you are going to roller , if you first go around hard to get into type areas brushing the paint on , say around hinges on a cabinet door etc but overlap onto flat bits , then you can roller all the easy bits and sort of roller into and just over the brushed areas and it melts in but probably looks better than just brushing , especially on larger fat areas, this is if your roller is working well and looking nice. Hope this helps a bit Graeme , I will starting to paint things next week I hope so will post my progress anyway .
Cheers Mick.
gndurant:
Hi Mick,
Thanks for your feedback on this - that actually helps a lot! I had been put onto rollers by a chap on another forum, and found they worked much better than brushing. I am using a machine enamel specially formulated for brush application, so it dries a little slower than standard enamel to allow the brush marks to flow out. It does work, and the results are reasonable with brush application, but the roller is significantly better, especially on large flat areas. It's not perfect by any means, but looks to me like an averagely reasonable sprayed finish - which is good enough for what I'm doing here, given that I don't have the option to spray!
I've been using foam rollers from Wickes - basically ten for five pounds, so you can afford to use them once and chuck them out. Cleaning a roller of oil based paint would be my idea of hell, hence I quite like this approach. They don't seem to be affected by the solvent in the paint I am using - a synthetic thinners - which is good, though I did worry about that before I tested them. You're right about the tiny bubbles though. My first attempt was plagued by them, but I found that if you run the roller over the surface lightly and rapidly as a last pass, it seems to flatten them all.
Where I have remaining problems - and where your final suggestion might work - is when painting around the "fiddly bits". When painting a big flat featureless area, like a panel or the boxy base, they work really well. However when painting round obstructions, like in my case where the drive shafts emerge from the body, or the gearbox levers emerge, I've found that the consistency of paint thickness is poor, and the results then look really patchy in terms of surface finish. The paint is just too thinly applied and doesn't flow to form a continuous skin. This could be because I'm using foam rollers, which aren't the best. I've tried extra hard to avoid this, but end up over working the paint with lots of attempts, and the results are not great.
I could try more expensive rollers, but I'm thinking that if I use your idea of painting those parts first, using a brush to lay down a full paint film, and then using the roller to flatten out the brush marks, I could be in business. Just a case of doing it all quickly before the paint starts to skin. I reckon I can do that!
So, many thanks for taking the time to share your ideas. This weekend I will test your suggestion on the remaining parts left to paint (that currently have a poor finish around the fiddly bits!).
Cheers
Graeme
Anzaniste:
--- Quote from: gndurant on May 20, 2013, 04:48:54 PM ---Hi Mick,
Fantastic thread! I'm rebuilding a Centec mill at the moment, so your experiences are particularly apt for me right now. You've done a cracking job so far, and I can't wait to see her finished!
In the meantime, I just wondered what your plans for painting are? I always struggle at that point, having no spray facilities. During previous machine rebuilds I've tried brushing machine enamel and also experimented a little with foam rollers, the latter with positive if mixed results. I noticed you'd used mini rollers for your metal rack, hence wondered what you had in mind for the lathe? Unless of course you have the space and kit to spray?
Cheers
Graeme
--- End quote ---
Any chance of piccies? I've got a Centec that I intend to do up (one day :coffee:)
Some one some where suggested that when using brush type enamels that warming up both the job and the paint before starting the job is a great help to achieving a good brushed finish. I've never tried it but one can see the logic.
gndurant:
I'll see what I can do - maybe start a new thread. I'm quite bad at logging progress in pictures, so I have a slightly sporadic set so far, but they do show before and after at least!
I started my re-paintwork in December, when the weather was still mild (12C). In January it got cold, and the paint definitely didn't flow. Being unable to raise the temperature of the sizeable cast iron lumps, I simply had to park that particular job until the weather improved. And this year that meant April, so with two coats of primer and a minimum of two topcoats, I'm only now near completion! I suspect if I could have warmed the iron sufficiently, and warmed the paint, it could have worked quite well even in the cold weather. I did try leaving a lamp inside the base of the machine overnight, but the thermal inertia of 500kg of iron meant no perceptible difference! Frustrating, though it did mean I was able to switch to a previously parked DIY job in the house, which has earned me enough credits to spend some good workshop time in the coming months!
Cheers
Graeme
micktoon:
Well at last some real progress on the lathe.
From looking pretty much stripped right down again.
The mission was to get this lot back inside the headstock
All the gears have been de burred, new spindle bearings and new oil seals, a couple of gears that had chipped teeth replaced and everything cleaned and checked over. The main problem with getting all the parts in seems to be most bits have to be inside the casing in their rough position but not actually in position and held there so that other things can be lined up at the same time, its a good job I had took plenty photos as my two manuals both have drawings that show several things that are not as this actual lathe so can do as much harm as help sometimes. Anyway after much struggling and trial and error , it all went back together and gears select and turn ok.
The next bit was the clutch , before the clutch used to snatch and sometimes not disengage, this was due to the pins in the vee pully that the clutch plate slide on having had notches worn into them and the clutch plates holes being worn oval. I was not confident of replacing the pins and drilling the plates spot on myself but Rob Wilson kindly did them for me , as you would expect Rob, he did a cracking job of them, cheers again Rob . You can see the pins in this photo, they have been fitted with slightly larger diameter roller bearing pins.
These are the plates with the new slightly larger holes drilled to match the new pins.
The clutch was then assembled, both the drawings were wrong and I could not remember at all how things went ! good job I had marked things as they came off, everything facing outwards received two small dot punch marks as you can see on second photo down at 12 O'clock , the steel clutch disc is flat one side and had a raised center on the other side as seen in third photo, it would have fit on either way but one way would be the wrong way , these marks ensured I put it in the correct way around so well worth taking the time to do this.
The next thing was a threaded collar on the end of the spindle has the holes chewed up so I drilled some new holes in the collar on the mill, lucky I already had the vee block and angle plate set up from doing something else on the mill as it would have taken longer to set up than do the holes.
This is the collar back on the spindle.
The clutch was then trial and error assembled, but would not seem to work, after looking at it really carefully I noticed witness marks inside an adjustable collar and remembered that I had put a small pin in a separate place in case it got lost , this was the missing link and once fitted it all seems to work ok.
The next stage is to prepare things for painting , a good bit of sanding , filling and priming needed, at least things should look as if they are progressing once some paint goes on.
Cheers Mick.
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