Author Topic: Maiwald Makeover....... (Read 40326 times)

Stilldrillin · « **on:** June 29, 2012, 03:52:23 PM »

Well, here we go again!

Another frail orphan, from my toy cupboard.

This is a James Maiwald hot air engine. It came to me at the end of 2009.

It isn't well! The main bearings are too far apart, and the flimsy crank is flexing.

This is the best it has ever run.......

My thoughts are to fit an extra pair of bearings, held closer in to the crank throw.

Also, I thought it's flywheel looked better on my Maiwald flame licker. So, it was cannibalised.

Removing the bearings proved a struggle. The frames are laser cut, and the bearings were just rammed in, much too tight.....

A pair of inriggers. The excess material will be removed later.......

A bit of a shock, finding swarf in the displacer pot! Impacted onto the brass bush. Very poor workmanship..........

This was the state of play, at today's knock off........

More to come, as and when.

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #1 on:** July 07, 2012, 04:07:19 PM »

After giving this thing a good coat of looking at, I decided it was much too wide.......

So, I reduced the alloy spacer by 10mm per side, to 48mm.

Extended the thread on the beam pivot shaft. Then screwed on two nuts, and faced to make 48mm spacer rod.

The frame relied on the wooden base, to hold it all square.

Drilled the frames for an extra 48mm spacer shaft, to triangulate and make it self supporting.......

The beam pivot bearing had also seized. Turned an alloy bush, with a slight positioning step........

To hold it central........

The alloy big end/ crank assembly is much too flimsy. But, I'll give it one more chance......

Rebuilt it, using my favourite sleeve lock, at each end of the crankpin.......

Progressing, steadily!

David D

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #2 on:** July 07, 2012, 04:13:25 PM »

Looking Good David

I bet deep down you smile when you come across "very poor workmanship"

Rob

sbwhart · « **Reply #3 on:** July 07, 2012, 04:57:46 PM »

missed the start of this one

interesting looking engine Dave,

I think I'll be using some of your fix it methods on the simplex

Keep up the good work with the orphans

Stew

Dean W · « **Reply #4 on:** July 08, 2012, 12:16:29 AM »

I like the looks of the model. Hard to imagine how they could leave so much swarf in that cylinder! Gosh, that's bad.
Looks like they had a nice model concept and then focused on cutting corners. The size of the holes in the upright
supports for the crankshaft could have taken bearings that would allow a larger diameter crankshaft.

I'm glad you are on the job so the poor thing can get (re)built right. I know it will be something special when
you finish with it!

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #5 on:** July 15, 2012, 04:16:18 AM »

Thanks for your kind comments, Chaps!

Very slow progress, I'm afraid........

I assembled the crank frame with it's three spacers.
It's now rigid/ self supporting enough, to file the underside flat, to my surface plate.......

Finished the inrigger bearing holders........

Glued into place. Aligned with a length of 4mm silver steel. Positioned outward, by a piece of foam........

Perfectly aligned.........

Rebuilt the crank assembly. Installed a temporary flywheel.

Oiled round...... And fired up..........

And........

It still wouldn't run!

David D

Dean W · « **Reply #6 on:** July 15, 2012, 09:08:07 PM »

Quote from: Stilldrillin on July 15, 2012, 04:16:18 AM

And........

It still wouldn't run!

Well, at least it's starting to look a bit more substantial. We know it will run in the end, David, 'cause
we have you on the job!

How's your supply of sleeve retainer holding out?

Dean

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #7 on:** July 16, 2012, 12:40:28 PM »

Thank you Dean, for your confidence in me.

Sleeve retainer? Hmmm..... After a very long, successful innings, it's beginning to splutter a little now.

Guess it's about time for a grovelling pm.......

After the fail, it was water tested.

No dramatic bubbles, but some water inside, on stripdown.

Calculated the ratio..... That's ok at around 6 to 1.

Don't like the pifflin', (out of square?), crank throws. So, I started to make another assembly.........

I had no 4mm alloy plate. So, had to machine from a 6" long piece, of 40mm dia. bar.

I was rather proud of my scruffy little 7 x 12's performance........

Obviously, I parted off between centres.
But facing the bar, so far away from the 5" chuck was no problem........

The biggest performance improvement, after the taper rollers, has been the recently fitted steel spacer. In place of the original plastic one.

Another really worthwhile improvement!

David D

NickG · « **Reply #8 on:** July 16, 2012, 01:01:08 PM »

These engines are so tempremental, if anyone can get them to run better you can though!

It just goes to show though, loose is the name of the game with hot air engines, they seem to like a little more clearance than most engines.

The crank shaft looks thick enough to me, as you say it's not given enough support by the bearings but your in-riggers should have solved that ... yeah, I reckon the webs are a bit flimsy, with all the flywheel weight on one side it may be skewing it a bit, your new flywheel looks a bit heavier than the other too.

Can't believe the swarf ... why on earth would you do that ... even if you were churning thousands out, it just doesn't make sense!

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #9 on:** July 17, 2012, 12:44:33 PM »

The tiny big end bearings came this morning.

Two, 4mm thick discs, 16mm dia. drilled through 7mm, and mounted on a mandrel in r/ table.......

Application of 4mm endmill........

Drill and tap M3.......

Two new big ends, ready for loctiting........

Tiny, fiddly bits n pieces, that won't stay in me fingers. Or on the bench, once they've escaped..... Grumble.........

David D

Dean W · « **Reply #10 on:** July 21, 2012, 05:38:08 PM »

Big ends, but they're little. ; ) They look much nicer than the original items, David. Much!

Ross · « **Reply #11 on:** July 21, 2012, 09:52:16 PM »

Super stuff so far David!

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #12 on:** July 24, 2012, 04:30:45 PM »

Dean, Ross.
Thanks Chaps! Much appreciated.......

Well..... Here we go, again!

I drilled the crankpin holes.......

Luckily the assembly stayed temporarily pressed together, to allow a test run.

Assembled, with a pair of spare Mamod flywheels........

Fitted a new "wonderwick".

Fired up.

And it still wouldn't run. Again!

What's wrong with the thing???

Everything's been checked/ re done!! Hasn't it??

Took off the hot cap. Sucked...... Hard...... It stuck to me tongue....... Nothing wrong with it!!!

Until, I poked a finger inside........

The wall thickness is around 9thou'. The end cap is 4thou', "tin"...........

I guess it was acting as a one way valve!

Sheesh!!

Sigh........

Nothing else to do, but make another, more robust cap.

Couldn't find any 1"od tube in the bits tub.

Mrs Drillin's exercise bike, now has a shorter saddle stem. (From inside the frame tube). Hope nobody tells her......

Topped to 24mm+. Bored to 23mm.........

Friction turned an end cap........

Couple of thou' under bore size.........

Silver soldered together........

Cleaned up, quite nicely........

I'm starting to worry about me. I don't get upset any more. I just expect things to go wrong........

And they do. Regularly!

Machining a new, thicker flange, tomorrow. Probably!

David D

krv3000 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 24, 2012, 04:37:45 PM »

looking good so far

Bluechip · « **Reply #14 on:** July 24, 2012, 04:46:53 PM »

Hi Dave

What a bu99er eh ??? Beginning to look a nice little motor though ...

Thought you gave me a demo. on a Maiwald ... not the same one is it? Can't be, t'other one ran ...

Dunno how you Silver Solder this weather ... was braising in my own sweat this afto. Up looking for bits in the roof space .. thought it was a bit cosy, thermometer said 52.2^oC.

Abandoned looking for the bits in favour of an in-depth survey of a 1L bottle of Becks ... ex-fridge.

Bright kid, I'll go far ...

BC

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #15 on:** July 25, 2012, 01:00:00 PM »

Thanks Bob!

Dave.
The Maiwald....... Was it this flamelicker?

Yes, it was a bit hot. Especially when relighting the blowtorch, in a hurry.....

Didn't manage any flange work today.
After sincere and meaningful discussion. Management suggested I slap protective on the shed door.

Tomorrow's another rip roaring day!

David D

Bluechip · « **Reply #16 on:** July 25, 2012, 01:33:08 PM »

Dave

That was the one ...

remember it now.
Hard to keep up with you, so many orphans ... and resurrections ..
BC

NickG · « **Reply #17 on:** July 25, 2012, 02:02:24 PM »

Nice one Dave, if you hadn't put your finger in there you may never have found that! I remember I ended up submerging my first stirling in the bath and blowing into the top of the power piston! That soon found the leaks!

Nick

Dean W · « **Reply #18 on:** July 25, 2012, 03:53:15 PM »

The way your finger went through that hot cap reminds me of how my fingers go through my jeans pockets.
No wonder I never have any money! Keep at it, David. : )

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #19 on:** July 27, 2012, 04:23:52 PM »

Dave, Nick, Dean.
Thanks for the smiles. Every little helps........

Found one of my penny washers was the right o/d, for a 50% thicker flange.

Bored it to just slip over the original........

Marked the 12 oclock position, for orientation. I could then spot, and drill through, 'cos the holes were not in any sort of pcd.

Turned a step on the cylinder to support the flange in position.........

Silver soldered together.......

Looks ok, I think........

Fired up, using a different burner

We got a very hesitant runner!!

It reminded me of my little grandaughter, when she runs. All arms and legs, and stopping every few seconds!

Very hesitant!

So, I lubed the piston, with slide oil, and it just took off........

That will do for now!

But!
Steel piston. Loose fit, in an alloy cylinder. Don't like that idea!

Do I make an alloy piston?

Or brass?

Do I open it out, and sleeve with steel, and brass piston?

What does the Team think?

David D

millwright · « **Reply #20 on:** July 27, 2012, 04:39:48 PM »

David,
I never doubted it would be runner, I think all your orphans know that. And im sure you wont be happy till its 100%.
Mmm easiest option new alloy piston, but will you be happy with that?

John

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #21 on:** July 27, 2012, 04:46:48 PM »

Hi John.
Thanks for your confidence!

An alloy piston will expand at the same rate as the cylinder.
But, will it gall. Or will the lube, (5W-30 full synthetic), keep things sweet?

Don't like alloy for cylinders.

David D

sbwhart · « **Reply #22 on:** July 28, 2012, 02:10:50 AM »

You beat that one into submision Dave it's certainly a bit of a flapper a nice interesting runner well done

MMMM new piston hey ? what about cast iron.

Stew

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #23 on:** July 28, 2012, 08:14:06 AM »

Thanks Stew!
Cast iron? Never thought of that material! Though, just a replacement brass piston, is most likely, so far......

I think I should have shown this video first.

Taken after the previous one, it shows the engine puffing out oil smoke, before stopping........

Total thick oil, run time was only some 2 minutes. I guess slide oil doesn't like elevated temperatures!

David D

NickG · « **Reply #24 on:** July 28, 2012, 10:13:51 AM »

I was about to say the same as you all just have! Don't like ali for cylinders either but easiest would be to do an ali piston - then you get the gaulling issue but as you say the engine oil might keep it sweet. Amazing the difference the oil makes, it helps it seal as well as reduce friction.

If you have a different material for cyl and piston I guess one will expand more than the other and either seize it up or make it too loose eventually. I was going to say cast iron for both ... it's the best option for any engine in my opinion, though with this graphite may give you very good results, wouldn't need oil and you could leave the aluminium.

Nick

fcheslop · « **Reply #25 on:** August 06, 2012, 12:07:32 PM »

Hi David,you could also use graphite for the piston
kind regards
Frazer

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #26 on:** August 06, 2012, 05:38:05 PM »

Thanks Nick!
I ummed an arred for a while. Then decided to make a new alloy piston, just to see what might happen.......

Realising there was 4mm spare space below the piston, I made the new one 3mm longer.
It stopped with a clunk, at the wear ridge made by the old piston!

So, I shortened it....... It still insisted on hitting the wear pattern!

So, I built the crank assembly, properly, while I thought about sleeving the cylinder........

The cylinder is 10mm bore, and the bottom of the fins is around 14mm dia.
So, I can only afford a cyl. with a wall thickness of1mm. I have ordered a length of cast iron.

Fraser.
Carbon! That's a great idea....... Until I priced some 3" x 1/2" dia. from Noggin. Hmmm.......

I think I'll try a cast iron piston, too!

David D

fcheslop · « **Reply #27 on:** August 06, 2012, 06:52:56 PM »

Hi David,Try artist supply shops they sell 3 inch lenghts about 3/4 dia for £2 or £3 Iv used it and not had any problems
cheers

ogaryd · « **Reply #28 on:** August 06, 2012, 09:57:06 PM »

Hello David D.
You know we all have one of these but here's my opinion, Graphite for the piston,it's self lubricating&low expansion. I bought my graphite from ebay, it was sold for stiring sticks for molten gold. Straighten cylinder bore and make piston very close fit. Another trick I learned was to remove shields from roller bearing and clean all grease. That reduces friction a bunch. Just another opinion .
I'm enjoying watching your rebuild. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Regards Gary

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #29 on:** August 07, 2012, 03:46:10 AM »

Hi Fraser.
Thanks for the art supplies tip! I'll have a look, while we're out today.

Hi Gary.
Thanks for your rebuild/ sharing comments. They're much appreciated.......

I've seen the stirring sticks...... At around £12, delivered.
Noggin End sell in 3" lengths......... At around £12, delivered.

I only need about 1/2"!

Present thoughts, (it's early morning, yet), are to sleeve with thin wall brass tube, and carbon piston.

This all could change, of course!

David D

Dean W · « **Reply #30 on:** August 07, 2012, 04:56:10 PM »

David, if you have a place in your town that does EDM machining services, check with them about a small piece
of carbon/graphite. They use it for the EDM process.

fcheslop · « **Reply #31 on:** August 07, 2012, 06:13:01 PM »

Hi David,its Graphite you need not Carbon

NickG · « **Reply #32 on:** August 13, 2012, 12:05:36 PM »

Quote from: NickG on July 28, 2012, 10:13:51 AM

... though with this graphite may give you very good results, wouldn't need oil and you could leave the aluminium.

Nick

Ahem .. somebody already mentioned graphite!

I used it in both poppin flame licker engines and they both started immediately ... was so impressed I have plans to replace the piston and valve on my other flame gulper too!

Motor brushes are also a good source if you can find any large enough.

Nick

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #33 on:** August 26, 2012, 06:19:11 AM »

Hi Chaps!
So sorry for the delay.

I've not dropped off the planet, just yet! ...... As a pal used to say. "Everything in me favour's, against me", at the moment.

A bit of gung ho machining of a 5" flywheel, and the lathe gave a couple of gentle pops, and went into quiet mode!

Since then, several aspects of daily life have gone wrong. And, a lot of other things haven't gone right.

It's blummin amazing, how everything comes at once!

The Maiwald parts lie just where I left 'em. Before they were covered with multiple parts from the stripped lathe..... Which is now rebuilt, again!

Give me a few more days..... Probably!

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #34 on:** October 05, 2012, 02:13:17 PM »

Well..... It's been quite a while since I did any orphan work. But! the big news is....... I've got Maiwald work underway, again!

Assembled together what I could find........

Cast iron. Graphite. Brass tube. Also, 2 packs of M2 grubscrews...... Dunno what they are for!

And set up, to drill for cylinder sleeve......

Then...... The phone rang!

No time to get back to it, until next week. But....... We're progressing, at last!

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #35 on:** October 08, 2012, 03:38:18 PM »

I drilled out the cylinder with 7/16" drill, held in a 12mm R8 collet. Didn't think R8 collets would compress willingly, that far.....

The 7/16" K&S tube needed it's o/d reducing by a couple of thou. So, I turned a mandrel......

Leaving the o/d a little rough, for grip, stuck it in place using my favourite sleeve retainer.......

Will drill through to the displacer chamber tomorrow, when it's cured.

Question time now. Re-graphite pistons.......

I've never turned a piston, without some oil grooves.

Do I still groove a graphite one. Or, leave it plain?

David D

lordedmond · « **Reply #36 on:** October 09, 2012, 06:58:33 AM »

David

leave it plain. and bring to final size with brown paper for emery, cover every thing up inc. yourself it gets everywhere

barriers cream on the hands is a good idea

with CI I am banished to washing hands in a bucket same with graphite

Stuart

NickG · « **Reply #37 on:** October 09, 2012, 02:17:25 PM »

Yep I'd agree leave it plain. I woul personally just turn it to size taking very small cuts will keep it parallel you'll find a very slightly tight fit, not tight but not fall through on it's own loose, will quickly wear it's way into the perfect fit after a few rotations of the crank. No need to lap or any such daft things it will create it's own perfectly smooth finish providing it's not as rough as a badger's arse. No need to cover stuff up, it's a good lubricant for machine, messy though!

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #38 on:** October 11, 2012, 12:13:17 PM »

Well....... I managed a workshop hour, this afternoon.

Pity it wasn't more productive.........

I was trying to emulate the original piston, only longer........

Guess I'll have to make a clevis, down inside the skirt. Held in with an M3 screw from 'tother end.

This stirring stick graphite is a lot coarser than I imagined it would be!

David D

NickG · « **Reply #39 on:** October 11, 2012, 03:50:51 PM »

Hi David, shame about that - it does look coarser than the stuff I used but reckon it'll still work - it looks sort of metallic? I've never tried threading it, do you need to? Also, do you need to mill the slot for the rod right through it? I left some material around edge on mine for strength and made the gudgeon pin a push fit in the graphite and a sliding fit in the rod - then you can assemble with light pressure and if the pin is slightly shorter than the dia. of the piston it will never move, the pin is stationary.

see attached for how I do mine, just a thought.

Nick

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #40 on:** October 16, 2012, 12:43:13 PM »

Thanks Nick.

So, I made one........

It reminded me of compressed, dried leafmold.......

Couldn't polish it to round. It went all shapes, like a piece of grainy softwood.

And, the engine would only run, when persuaded with a small blowlamp.

Think I'll make a brass piston, if I can get the time, tomorrow.

David D

NickG · « **Reply #41 on:** October 16, 2012, 12:56:53 PM »

Nightmare!

Well at least you've tried it, looks like I got lucky with the piece that was donated, it was much finer, more like the stuff you seen on motor brushes.

Looks like brass might be the way forward for you then, I just struggle with the whole lapping / getting a perfect fit thing though!

Nick

andyf · « **Reply #42 on:** October 16, 2012, 02:13:28 PM »

m-machine are advertising a new plastic with a great fanfare. They say it works OK for piston rings; I wonder if it would be stable enough for a complete piston.

It's on this page:
http://www.m-machine-metals.co.uk/mm/website/metals_menu.html

Andy

philf · « **Reply #43 on:** October 16, 2012, 03:05:36 PM »

Quote from: andyf on October 16, 2012, 02:13:28 PM

m-machine are advertising a new plastic with a great fanfare. They say it works OK for piston rings; I wonder if it would be stable enough for a complete piston.

It's on this page:
http://www.m-machine-metals.co.uk/mm/website/metals_menu.html

Andy

Looks an interesting and useful material. At £8.37/ inch of 25mm diameter it's not cheap. To quote from a data sheet:

Main characteristics:

high max. allowable service temperature in air (continuously 260°C)
excellent chemical and hydrolysis resistance
good wear resistance
low coefficient of friction
very good dimensional stability
good electrical insulating properties
oustanding UV and weather resistance
inherent low flammability

FLUOROSINT® 500 (PTFE + mica) (ivory)

FLUOROSINT® 500 has nine times greater resistance to deformation under load than unfilled PTFE (tested according to ASTM D 621; stress of 14 MPa of 50°C). Its coefficient of linear thermal expansion approaches the expansion rate of aluminium and is 1/5 that of virgin PTFE. It is considerably harder than virgin PTFE, has better wear characteristics and maintains low frictional properties. FLUOROSINT® 500 is also nonabrasive to most mating materials. .

Phil.

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #44 on:** October 17, 2012, 12:38:22 PM »

Nick.
I probably should have spent more, on a better quality piece of graphite......

Andy.
I think that will do the job! But, at the price Phil's come up with, it might be some while before someone tests it.......

Well...... I made a brass piston. It looks much better than the compost one!

It even runs much better.........

All parts are just bodged together....... It wasn't really happy, but I left it running for some 10mins or so.

Stopped it. And realised, the clonk was the piston hitting the bottom of the cylinder!
1mm removed, tomorrow, should make all the difference.

Ready for finish build, now......

Happy little Drillin!

David D

lordedmond · « **Reply #45 on:** October 17, 2012, 01:16:57 PM »

Quote from: andyf on October 16, 2012, 02:13:28 PM

m-machine are advertising a new plastic with a great fanfare. They say it works OK for piston rings; I wonder if it would be stable enough for a complete piston.

It's on this page:
http://www.m-machine-metals.co.uk/mm/website/metals_menu.html

Andy

I think its similar to PEEK , I use that stuff for the polo mint type rings on piston valve bodies

Stuart

NickG · « **Reply #46 on:** October 17, 2012, 01:24:23 PM »

Nice work David ... looks like it's flying over in the pic!

I noticed that material too but never thought of using it for a piston. Might get hold of some and see what it's like considering they are only about 6 miles away from me!

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #47 on:** October 18, 2012, 07:53:04 AM »

Thanks for your comments Chaps!

Someone wanted a video, already........

David D

saw · « **Reply #48 on:** October 18, 2012, 10:11:56 AM »

Nice work the engine is running nice and fine

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #49 on:** October 24, 2012, 03:43:47 PM »

Thank you Benni!

When I first saw this engine, with it's large flywheel, it reminded me of a hit n miss engine. Which needs a pair of wheels......

I've now chopped rather a lot of ali from the castings.

With red spokes, would this look ok?

Or, are they a little on the large side?

David D

DMIOM · « **Reply #50 on:** October 24, 2012, 06:43:53 PM »

Quote from: Stilldrillin on October 24, 2012, 03:43:47 PM

.....With red spokes, would this look ok?......Or, are they a little on the large side?....

On the colour - just my opinion (a) the un-painted metal balances the unpainted metal at the hot end, and (b) I find that, depending on the context, having things light-coloured (or sometimes having them black) can make them look physically lighter.

Also, if you take the length along the engine's main axis, with those flywheels they protrude about the same amount as the hot end is distant from the centre of the red frames centre.

Dave (IOM)

andyf · « **Reply #51 on:** October 24, 2012, 07:09:51 PM »

To make the flywheels "belong" a bit more, maybe just a touch of colour on them; perhaps a thin red line around the rims (like a whitewall tyre, but much thinner).

Or perhaps a splash of red on the hubs like this crude rendition:

Andy

NickG · « **Reply #52 on:** October 26, 2012, 02:01:42 PM »

I quite like those flywheels David, I reckon they should be painted except for the hub face and the rim - so any machined bits unpainted. Maybe just 1 and a pulley on the other side - save a flywheel for something else, or is that just me being a tight @rse!

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #53 on:** October 26, 2012, 03:33:44 PM »

What Nick said David

Rob

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #54 on:** October 26, 2012, 04:00:10 PM »

Dave.
Unfortunately I cannot leave the castings unpainted. A few pinholes in the spokes have had to be filled.

Nick.
Don't worry about flywheel stock. It's all in hand......

Andy, Rob.
Thanks for your input. I now think black spokes with polished rim is the way to go.

Here is the original. Repainted, and fitted to another engine.......

My main concern was that a pair this diameter, might look too much. Intending to finish off with alloy pulleys to the outside of the hubs.

Thanks for your interest, and input, Chaps!

David D

sbwhart · « **Reply #55 on:** October 26, 2012, 04:09:09 PM »

Ther's something about black that turns me on be it on a shaply female leg or a fly wheel it realy does it for me.

Stew

NickG · « **Reply #56 on:** October 27, 2012, 03:33:37 AM »

I would never have thought of gloss black but it looks brilliant! I also liked the cream that Chris did his 10V a while back - think I might be moving away from the red flywheels I've always done in the past - don't know where that fixation came from, think it was from younger days when spend endless hours staring at traction engine flywheels!

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #57 on:** October 27, 2012, 03:58:45 PM »

Thanks nick! I don't know why I don't think black, more often.

Stew.
Here's 10 curvaceous legs for you.........

What cher reckon?

First coat, only. Another one, sometime, then clean up the rims.

David D

sbwhart · « **Reply #58 on:** October 27, 2012, 04:04:05 PM »

Better:--- Just paint those orangy red bits black and you'll have it licked

Stew

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #59 on:** October 27, 2012, 04:25:32 PM »

Nice one David , the engine dose look better with two flywheels

Rob

saw · « **Reply #60 on:** October 27, 2012, 04:54:31 PM »

Now it's a pice of art

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #61 on:** October 27, 2012, 05:05:43 PM »

Quote from: sbwhart on October 27, 2012, 04:04:05 PM

Better:--- Just paint those orangy red bits black and you'll have it licked

Stew

Stew.
The 'orrible colour, is my overenthusiastic camera. Colour balancing against the black background.

It's actually a nice red..... To my eye.

It's staying as is.......

Rob, Benni.
Thank you!

David D

NickG · « **Reply #62 on:** October 28, 2012, 06:07:31 AM »

looks great David, I like it!

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #63 on:** November 16, 2012, 04:05:03 PM »

Well...... This is still progressing, slowly.

Unfortunately, the enthusiasm's been a bit lacking recently. Spent a lot of time with other things, and the gonna do's.

Made a new burner......

Complete with removable cap, held with O ring.......

Then I spent a nice hour, this afternoon experimenting with burner settings.......

Just the rod lengths left to fiddle with, and make pivot pins, instead of the M3 screws.

David D

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #64 on:** July 31, 2013, 03:07:31 AM »

Yes...... I know, it's been a while.

So frustrated with the slow progress, and other frustrations.

I put it back in the toy cupboard, for 8 months......

Finally, got around to it, last week. Everything went well, for a change!

I really like the, "teamwork" flywheels........

JB-welded a stainless disc, to keep the burner in place.......

And, the final video......

It's been a very frustrating job. But, it's all I hoped for, when I started out. "I'm a bit pleased with that".......

David D

Bluechip · « **Reply #65 on:** July 31, 2013, 03:34:08 AM »

Hi Dave

That really is a cutie ...

Great improvement from when you got it.

So, what's next ??

Dave BC

NickG · « **Reply #66 on:** July 31, 2013, 03:41:59 AM »

Looks great that David, like the skid too.

Bangkok Mick · « **Reply #67 on:** July 31, 2013, 04:07:08 AM »

Great job David it looks great.

Cheers Mick

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #68 on:** July 31, 2013, 05:48:12 AM »

Nick, Mick...... Thank you!

Dave..... Thanks, too!

Next? Well..... It's just been christened, Metisse.
Don't think the Rickman Bros. will be concerned. But, it will be a bit of a mongrel, when I'm done with it......

David D

tekfab · « **Reply #69 on:** July 31, 2013, 05:54:33 AM »

Quote from: sbwhart on October 26, 2012, 04:09:09 PM

Ther's something about black that turns me on be it on a shaply female leg or a fly wheel it realy does it for me.

Stew

Therapy Stew, "T H E R A P Y " with the help of the group you can beat this !

Mike

vtsteam · « **Reply #70 on:** August 01, 2013, 11:04:15 PM »

What a beauty! Missed this one first time around.

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #71 on:** August 02, 2013, 02:07:31 AM »

Thanks VT!

David D

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