LED Shop Light

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LED Shop Light

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wquiles:
The flexible goose neck is part of the off-the-shelf LED light that I am using as the basis for this update: The WoodRiver LED Dual Power Shop Light http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021277/26141/woodriver--led-dual-power-shop-light.aspx

To put these together, you cut-off the head:

You need to cut the stub on the 20mm lens:

Buy the LED's on 10mm boards if possible. If you have bare LED's, reflow the LED's (it would help if I had reflowed them with the proper/correct polarity!) and solder wires to each end (the wire colors are correct in this picture):

Clean the surfaces, and apply thermal epoxy to the back of the LED:

Then use the 20mm optic to center the LED as best as possible (not possible to do a 100% perfect alignment since the dome of the Nichia/XP-G is not a 100% match to the hole in the TIR optic, but it is still really good):

Then put some weight to ensure a very thin layer of thermal epoxy:

The "electronics" are very easy. Basically remove the wires for the battery (not used) and short either one of the two resistors, so that the DC voltage is fed directly to the LED. Since it is voltage/current limited, you get about 800-820mA to the LED, which is about perfect for an LED that will be ON for hours at a time:

Then cut the wires on the flexible neck, solder and tape:

Then you epoxy the head to the lamp's flexible arm. The groove that I cut on the back provides mechanical strength to the bond:

Then put the base on a metal base (like a vise), aim the arm and head completely vertical, and apply 4 small drops of glue to keep the lens in place:

Finished:

Will

wquiles:

--- Quote from: Divided he ad on May 26, 2012, 06:51:38 PM ---I always think I should put a bit more effort into learning about these high power LEDs :smart:

--- End quote ---

Yes, there is a whole world of LED stuff - I only know enough to be dangerous. I wrote a post as an introduction to Modifying flashlights, which has a good section on LED's and might be a good read to get you started:
http://atdms.com/tutorial_modifying_flashlights_page1.html

Will

HS93:
thank you for that ill look in the Uk for something simmilar to build in to a new head

Peter

wquiles:

--- Quote from: HS93 on May 27, 2012, 01:40:15 PM ---thank you for that ill look in the Uk for something simmilar to build in to a new head

Peter

--- End quote ---

Peter,

Another totally DIY alternative (instead of buying an off-the-shelf lamp to modify) is to use Loc-Line, which it is of course hollow, and you can make any length (within reason!). They even sell a magnetic base ready to go:
http://www.modularhose.com/Loc-Line-12-System/12-miscellaneous/Loc-Line-51846

Of course, you would still need to buy/make the metal head, come up with an AC-to-DC converter and/or LED driver, etc., but still totally doable.

Will

John Stevenson:
Peter, I have been using some Cree Q5 modules from deal extreme in China, very good to deal with.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/cree-q5-led-drop-in-module-3-7v-18v-input-11621?item=108

These are complete units with inbuilt regulator and just require 3.7 to 18 volts but I have found that 5volts is just right, any more only generates more heat and no more light. I use an old Nokia wall wart at 5 volts

This is two of them built into the end of a special motor for a CNC.

And this is the light they throw out, in this case both were wired to the same 5v wall wart.

This was taken with no lights on in the workshop and they are not quite as bright as shown, the low light makes them look brighter but they are bright. good thing is they don't get hot at 5 volts and you can handle them after 4 or 5 hours with no problems.

John S.

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