Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

Is this Die made improperly?

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bogstandard:
Spin,

It has been brought to my attention that you are in fact using the die back to front, but in this situation I don't think it makes any difference. You would still get crap results.
I normally surface grind the back face off, and turn the die around and use that for final finishing to a shoulder.

BTW, there is nothing wrong with well made carbon taps and dies, I prefer them when cutting brass, ali and cast iron (ie softer materials), I find they don't gall as much as an HSS one. But for any harder materials you should always go for HSS and above if possible.


John

Darren:

--- Quote from: Darren on January 30, 2009, 04:29:12 AM ---Cheap sets will be carbon steel, for stainless threading these arfe not hard enough and you will be better off with HSS tooling. But again, you really should try the better brands.

--- End quote ---

In light of Bogs last post I thought I'd better add a bit here as the above wasn't really fair on describing carbon taps.

What I should have said is carbon taps/dies are cheaper to purchase than HSS, I did not mean to imply they are cheap and nasty items per se. And as pointed out they have their slot to fill in our little world.
But for stainless you really want to be looking got HSS or better as john has pointed out.

bogstandard:
Rleete,

I will answer the question for you. Stew showed you his collection of home made ones, I will show you a few of my bits (machining) to show what he was on about.

The first two pics show my own small tap and die machine holders. This first one shows how I modded a long series tapwrench to fit into a holder that goes into the chuck held in a locked up tailstock. The other tube like one was made to hold very small dies (you can't get a standard sized dieholder for ones this small), you can easily make one to fit standard sized dies. So basically you just turn up an accurate mandrel or hole for them to run on or in. Lubricate the spindles, wack them up to the job and turn them by hand, they should cut nice and true while you turn them into the job. I use them under power, and feel for when it either hits the shoulder or hole bottom and just let go, it then just carries on spinning. Pop the lathe into reverse, hold on, and wind them back out.




This shot shows how they look when ready to go to work.




This shows a commercial set that can do both taps and dies, and is designed to be used under power, but you could use it by turning the chuck. The pin in the slot stops the head rotating, so you have to be very careful when coming to a shoulder or hole bottom. I am just modifying another set that will work on the same principle as the ones above. These will hold up to 16mm taps and dies.



There are lots of types out in the retail shops, and the big one above is designed for production work. With a little bit of thinking, they are very easy to make for only a few bucks, and they will last you a lifetime.

I have also have a lovely, small, auto tapping head for use on the lathe or mill, it just happened to come my way, but I haven't had time to give it a trial yet.

I hope this explains it to you.

John

rleete:
Thanks for the pics. 

I intend to make those someday - they are on the ever growing list.

SPiN Racing:
Wow Wow Wow


Lot of information.... starting with me using the Die backwards ROFLMAO.


Ok so.

The dies I have.. are hex shaped.... Rather the metric ones are.

So.. I gather good Dies are not hex shaped.

Next question.....

What keeps the taps from turning inside the holder??

I hate to ask such complete noob questions. But I see how the Hex holds it.


And the long shafts that stay in, and allow the die to thread, while maintaing alignment.. and slide in.. and then free spin.  Nice.

I have done power threading and tapping on the old as hell Lathe at the race shop I work at sometimes.. but it has a big brake lever LOL. SO when close, power goes off, and the hand on the brake to stop it short. A little turn by hand and done.

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