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| Fergus OMore:
Ah, yes but. You have to be a bit careful with debunking the theory. So you are attempting to to revert to plane geometry- or back to Euclid. To be honest, it's all an academic exercise in machining. Of course, this has a certain relevance but Ian Bradley was merely 'fooling about'. It was the Beginners Lathe thing in ME which is not to be taken too seriously. |
| Fergus OMore:
Spririt levels, perhaps -- and females with balls :bang: |
| Miner:
LOL, Norman knows quite well I know exactly what he means. He's referring to George Thomas's writings where having the correct support while using an off set center idealy needs what are called Bell Center Drills that will drill a radiused center hole and also a hardened ball at the tailstock end. This gives you the best contact and support possible while your part is offset from the lathes center line. Apologys Wong, We seem to have gone a bit off topic on your thread. Pete |
| Fergus OMore:
Hmm?? My top slide has a removable parallel dowel that automatically locks and gives No 2 Morse Taper. Plain simple Plane Geometry and the setting is unaffected by the length of the material and all sorts of circus perfomances. Bung a peg in, and with nothing up my sleeve, one has a beautiful taper shank just for the turning. The authority-- Martin Cleeve ( Hart)- not George Thomas. |
| wongster:
Hi Pete, no OT at all. All within the scope of turning taper. I did some reading online and saw the bell centre drill used to create the radius-ed centre hole. Though someone else in that forum mentioned about using a ball (balls? where did the other one goes...) on the centre, a pic was shown without one in use. I don't think I'm capable to whip up a ball end type of dead or alive centre at this moment. Would the 120 degree centre hole from the bell centre drill suffice? To keep the set-over centre on plane, I would be doing what Ralph did - leave the side of the Base square so that squaring it up would be much simpler. Will these work? |
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