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3-way joint for box frame.

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raynerd:
I appreciate your fast responses!

Tim, here is a quick sketch of what I`m making, although I was hoping to keep all clock related stuff in my clock thread, but I`ll just link out to this one. The sketch shows the back as glass where of the course the back will be wood and just front and sides glass. The front will also have a door planted on it so most of these joints will not be seen from the front as the door will cover them.



Swarfing, the dowels method I have considered and seems the easiest but a little too easy and perhaps not strong enough. The wooden batterns are all 1 1/2" square so quite chunky.

I did consider doing either 1 simple lap joint and then a dowel to each of the two piece.

Jason, the secret mitre is well above me at the moment. Could you please tell me more about "a groove to take the glass"? My intial idea was to cut a rebate around the edge but at 1 1/2" thick, it`ll be quite a deep groove to get the glass close to the front edge. I hope you don`t think I`m being thick, but not knowing anything about woodwork, I don`t really know what you mean about:

--- Quote ---mitre the top ones and then form an "L" shaped tennon on the end of teh vertical corner ones to fit up into the groove
use "L" profile corner posts that are set back a little from the mitred top
--- End quote ---


any more info would be appreciated!

Tim - just a couple more things. I really don`t fancy doing a dove tail, I`m not skilled enough and it`ll look rubish. I have a good set of chisels and a few good quality, sharp planes as well as a shoulder plane but that is it. At a push, I have access to a circular bench saw.

Regarding wood, It was sold to me as a piece of old maple but when I had it planed up and cut to size, my mate told me it was nothing like any maple he has ever seen..almost orange in colour. Infact, I`m not that impressed with it but hey ho...I can`t afford any more and this will be a good practice so I`ll use what I`ve got!



Now however, it has been split down the middle and cut into 1 1/2" square lengths.

raynerd:
Ohh, just another point. That quick sketch in sketchup shows the battons with no thickness! I wanted 1 1/2" wood because I wanted the "chunky" wood look but I think maybe there is too much wood on the inside not necessary. Could I possibly take say 1/2" off the corner or even take the inside corner off the wood?

spuddevans:

--- Quote from: Jasonb on October 15, 2011, 04:37:30 AM ---Spud, it will be glazed on 5 sides and teh "box" is justy a timber frame to cover the edges of the glass, no point in doing all that work on a clock and only being able to see it from the front. Though a mirror for teh back panel is sometimes used.

J

--- End quote ---

Ahh, of course  :doh: :doh:

I assume (very dangerous but I gotta keep trying) that the front will be hinged to allow for adjustments to made?

I would be inclined to mitre the joints between the sides and top/bottom and just butt-join the joints between back and sides/top/bottom, and the same between the front frame(that the hinges are mounted on) and the sides/top/bottom.

A mortice and tennon joint is overkill in my view, the strength will come from the silicone holding the glass to the frames and not the type of joint used to holding the wooden frame together.


If you were feeling adventurous you could take a leaf out of the aquarium builders book and just use high-strength silicone to hold the glass together (assuming that the glass is strong enough to take the strain) and not have a frame at all, using Jason's idea of using a mirror as the back would look really good.


Tim

edit.

I just saw your sketch, you could still make it frameless in the top part with a wooden base.

Jasonb:
Can you give an idea of overall size, looks about 4ft tall and it sort something out.

J

raynerd:
Sure, it`s actually quite a bit higher at 5 foot. The higher it is, the longer the weight can drop so the longer the run, which is why I`ve decided on a floor stander in the first place.

Approximate outside dimensions 5' x 11" wide and 5" deep although just need to make sure that looks in proportion. The 11" width is fixed as I`ll need this to hold the face central and allow the pendulum to swing.

EDIT:  Tim, yes, I was well into aquascaping and use to own an ADA tank..cost me a fortune but all held by silicone and no bracing. I don`t know...think it might look odd over a clock?

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