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3-way joint for box frame.

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mike os:
not overly difficult ( but then I am a bench joiner & cabinet maker) :D

uprights should go floor to top in one piece
rails (horizontal bits) should be blind tenoned into the uprights
face panels go into groves in the frame as you assemble (no glue on panels or they will split), if they are to be flush with the face of the frame then the edge of the panel is rebated to bring the face flush

top the same way if flush or held on with buttons from inside if overhanging

spuddevans:

--- Quote from: craynerd on October 15, 2011, 05:30:35 AM ---EDIT:  Tim, yes, I was well into aquascaping and use to own an ADA tank..cost me a fortune but all held by silicone and no bracing. I don`t know...think it might look odd over a clock?

--- End quote ---

I guess it depends on what look you are going for, if you want a traditional style then the frameless option may not suit.

Either way, having a mirror as (or on) the back will add greatly to both a traditional style and a modern frameless version.


Tim

raynerd:
Mike

What do you mean by "face panels go into groves in the frame as you assemble (no glue on panels or they will split)". My plan for the glass panels was to just  take say 1/8" width and 1 1/4" depth off the inside edge of each piece (I presume this is what is meant by a rebate) and then push the glass up inside the rebate and hold it there with a few very small panel pins.

How long would the blind tenons be if my timber is 1 1/2" square? Won`t they hit each other in the middle?

My current most confident joint was a simple lap joint on two of the parts and then dowel the other piece putting in two dowels, one in each of the woods that are lap jointed...hopefully holding everything together.



Tim - If I did put a mirror on the back piece. Would you just some how drill through the mirror to mount the backplate of the clock? I struggle seeing how to best mount the clock backplate to support the weight of the clock. My intention was to have quite a heavy thick backboard to allow a good fixing point. 

mike os:
I'll do you some sketches... if i forget...remind me, brain is calcifying :doh:

Jasonb:
The grooves that we have both suggested  would be like cutting a keyway down the length of the timber, you could probably use 3mm glass so say a 3mm wide x 5mm deep groove. This method does trap the glass during construction so parts need to be finished on the inner edges first but it looks a lot neater than rebate and pins on the inside.

The tennons can be stopped before they touch or roughly mitred where they meet out of sight.


Th etwo disadvantages of lap joints is that you see endgrain and they are not that strong.

If the back need  to support the clock then use a ply or MDF back with a drilled mirror in front.

Do you want teh door to fit infront of teh structure you sketched - would look quite bulky, or to have the door as part of what you have drawn, eg part of teh front pair of legs become the door frame.

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