Author Topic: tool tip No4  (Read 4416 times)

Offline krv3000

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tool tip No4
« on: September 27, 2011, 03:41:53 PM »
Hi all right you no when you get a new mill cuter or a set of taps they sumtimes cum with a protective coting on them see pic 1 well you can by  this stuff to put on your tools your self  but theirs a nother way to protect them from damage and rust you will need sum petroleum jelly or grease and sum heat shrink tubing to cover the tool with  this stuff cums in all colors and sises  cut the tubing to cover the cutting part of the tool then cover the cutting end of the tool with grease or petroleum jelly then put the tubing over the tool then with a soft flame shrink the tubing dawn to fit snug on the tooling when you need to yous the tool next just cut the tubing off with a sharp knife right pics       

Offline mhh

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Re: tool tip No4
« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2011, 02:05:48 AM »
Be careful not to buy the kind with glue!  :D

Offline krv3000

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Re: tool tip No4
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2011, 03:49:18 PM »
yep

Offline Bluechip

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Re: tool tip No4
« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2011, 04:18:30 PM »
If you get some of this sort of braided sleeving you've no need to 'shrink & cut'.


http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Expandable-braided-sleeving-71513



Just pull to shrink on, and push to expand off.

Only trouble is, you need to seal the ends 'cos it frays ...  :(

BC
I have a few modest talents. Knowing what I'm doing isn't one of them.

Offline krv3000

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Re: tool tip No4
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2011, 04:22:04 PM »
Hi bluechip yep i have seen that tyipe

Offline Lew_Merrick_PE

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Re: tool tip No4
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2011, 12:28:43 AM »
At the risk of sounding too snooty, I find that wooden boxes with bored out (glued in) inserts into which the shank of the cutter slips nicely work the best.  If I drill the hole for the shank of the cutter 1/32'nd of an inch (call it 0.75 mm) oversize, then the cutter stays a nice slip fit even after I have applied a good oil (I prefer tung) finish.  A bit of piano hinge and a 1/2-turn "Draw-Tite" latch makes it complete.  A couple of "grips" glued to the sides made out of 1X2 timber (net 3/4 X 1-1/2 inch) with a quick undercut on the bottom edge finishes it off and makes it easy to carry.

About 30 years ago I built a roll-away with drawers made in that fashion, but I had to move into "less spacious" quarters and I was offered enough $$$ to part with it.  My replacement is (back to) boxes that fit nicely on shelves.  I organize my cutters by general type (HSS, Carbide, Ground-for-Steel, Ground-for-Aluminum, etc.) so I can find my desired cutter without dragging down and opening a dozen different boxes.

I keep going back-and-forth on tap storage.  At various times I have grouped taps in their own "stand" (i.e. a block of wood drilled for the tap set (bottoming, taper, spiral, and reduced shank, with a hole to hold the tap drill) -- and then go back to boxes that have grooved storage for a class of taps (bottoming, taper, etc.) that holds a range of taps.  I have not really decided (even after 4+ decades) on which approach I like.  However, as I don't throw out the pieces, swapping back and forth is (almost) painless.