4" chuck on a 4" rotary table

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sparky961:
Found them...

wheeltapper:
After a nights thought I think I have an idea.
I wont say too much in case its a flop but I'll take pics and show them if it works.

watch this space. :lol:

Roy

DaveH:
Roy,

Go for it :D :D :D
:beer:
DaveH

wheeltapper:
O.K Here we go.
It seemed to work so now I'll bore you with it. :D

first I grabbed a lump of steel rod and turned a No2 morse taper.
I also turned a parallel portion to be a sliding fit in the centre hole of the chuck.

I drilled and tapped the small end of the taper m8 for a drawbolt.

after parting off and reversing in the lathe I tidied the end up then drilled and tapped m8.

now I need two washers, one for the lower end and a stepped one for the chuck end.

now to assemble,
fit taper in table.

the length is just right.

then the drawbolt,

turn upright and slide the chuck on and retain with stepped washer.

and done.

this method does restrict the smallest size piece I can hold in the chuck, its about 22mm but I have a collet chuck on a backplate that will fit with no bother and that will take up to 20mm.

If I have something thats 21mm then tough. :lol:

thats all folks. :) :)

Roy

Lew_Merrick_PE:
Somewhat of a variation of Sparky's approach, I make a set of mounting plates for my R/T that "key" to the slots using a headed press-pin. The t-slots in my (8 inch) R/T have a precision .335 opening, so I turn down ø.375 drill rod (silver steel) for a very close (slight press) fit in the slot while leaving a ø.370/.365 head on them. I made a ø.334 toolmaker's reamer, so all I have to do is drill & ream 3 holes which get counterbored ø.375 X .15 deep in my mounting plate. This locates my mounting plate reliably on my R/T. Drilled & counterbored holes for (5/16) socket head cap screws completes the attachment. (I make the headed press pins in lots of a dozen when I start running low on them.)

I then mount my mounting plate on the R/T and drill & ream a ø.250 tooling hole at the center of the R/T. I dress the OD of the mounting plate to (approximately) 8.75 so that I have a "lip" to pry against (using spacers and a pry bar) when I need to change mounting plates. Having several mounting plates makes it easy to set and swap tooling. As I have an 8 inch R/T and a set of 6 inch chucks, the interference issue never raised its ugly head at me. I like Sparky's approach.

My "point" being that setting up your tooling is always a good idea. Most of my mounting plates have a matrix of ø.1865 (PF for 3/16 dowel pin) and #10-24 mounting holes spaced around the central ø.250 tooling hole. Figuring out an attachment for some locator/tooling set-up is then a snap. I keep a CAD file set-up to drag into a design when I am making such adapters.

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