Author Topic: Press fits into cast iron. (Read 10266 times)

DaveH · « **on:** June 12, 2011, 11:52:21 AM »

Hi,

I have a cast iron 120mm dia disc about 22mm think, it has a 50mm dia thro’ hole and 3 equally spaced 10mm dia holes on a 82.6mm PCD.

It is a camlock D1-4 adapter plate for a 160 chuck, that I could destroy to the above dimensions. (But probably not)

However I need the 50mm thro’ hole “plugged”. Now I have a real fear of force fits into cast iron, I’ve had a couple of them break.

Now I see John S did it in his post http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=5469.msg57680#msg57680

May be John S and anyone else could give me a few possible ways to do it

DaveH

John Stevenson · « **Reply #1 on:** June 12, 2011, 12:05:24 PM »

Aahh, now I cheated with mine.
I get easily frightened on a long bore of getting it stuck partway and not being able to go either way.
That pump out rigger was bored and the part made to a tad above size.
It was then polished up and retried until it was a slip fit into the housing, this way I know it won't stick. Then it was liberally smeared with Loctite, pressed in and secured with two grub screws from the side.

If had been something like your job i could have secured it by two or three grub screws drilled and tapped half and half into the face of the slug and plate.

John S.

DaveH · « **Reply #2 on:** June 12, 2011, 12:52:48 PM »

John S,

Thank you John.

I will save it, (the cast iron one) and make a new D1-4 adapter out of steel.

Thanks

DaveH

picclock · « **Reply #3 on:** June 12, 2011, 02:12:58 PM »

Although I've never done it, could it be silver soldered? I've read that silver soldering cast iron is OK.

From the cupalloys site (http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/joining-cast-iron-c100028.html) :-

"The main difficulty associated with silver soldering cast iron is due to the presence of carbon on the surface which prevents the alloy "wetting" onto the iron. It must be removed. The flux is not capable of doing so.

The best technique is to heat the cast iron up to a red heat with the oxidizing part of the flame (outside the blue zone!) This burns the carbon from the surface. Allow it to cool. Clean the components with a stiff wire brush. Braze as normal using HT5 flux."

Not affiliated to Cup Alloys in any way.

Best Regards

picclock

Davo J · « **Reply #4 on:** June 12, 2011, 07:38:29 PM »

I left around 0.05mm for press fit on a plug into a face plate.
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/fitting-250mm-chuck-face-plate-12x36-lathe-121922/

What are you making?

Dave

DaveH · « **Reply #5 on:** June 12, 2011, 07:52:41 PM »

Dave,

Quote from: Davo J on June 12, 2011, 07:38:29 PM

What are you making?
Dave

Com'on you answered some of my questions about Camlock D1-4 adapter plate post.

You should really try to keep up

Dave -I'm just pulling your leg - don't take it serious

DaveH

Davo J · « **Reply #6 on:** June 12, 2011, 07:57:41 PM »

I am still in the dark

In that post you only said you where making an adapter, not what for.
Maybe I missed something

Dave

DaveH · « **Reply #7 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:14:44 PM »

Dave,
No I don't think you missed anything. I didn't say what I wanted the adapter for.

One side of the adapter will go on to the lathe nose,

you want to know what the other side will be used for.

mmmmm...... only if you promise to keep it a secret.

DaveH

Davo J · « **Reply #8 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:20:36 PM »

D1-4 ER collet chuck

Dave

DaveH · « **Reply #9 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:24:55 PM »

Dave,

Excellent guess.

My goodness aren't Dave's good.

ER25 collet chuck, then I can take the collect chuck with the work piece still in, straight on to the rotary table for milling – and the back to the lathe if required, without losing too much accuracy or having to realign it.

I had already written this.

Do you have a ER chuck?

DaveH

Davo J · « **Reply #10 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:28:50 PM »

I must have missed that post.
If you make a copy of spindle nose it could be used as a receiver bolted on the rotary table.
I have the steel cut for my rotary table receiver, but still have to finish it.

Dave

Davo J · « **Reply #11 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:36:28 PM »

I still can't find your other post.

I have a MT3 to ER32 collet chuck that I bought 4-5 years a go, but it is limiting if I want something long to go into it.

Dave

DaveH · « **Reply #12 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:39:00 PM »

Dave,

You didn't miss any posts I didn't say what it was for.

It wasn't a deliberate omission I was more concerned about the lathe nose part.
Your reciever bolted to the rotary table, what about the locking pins?

DaveH

Davo J · « **Reply #13 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:45:21 PM »

The locking cams can be bought, but are expensive. I am going to make mine.
Have a look at this one from Deerguy

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1350.0

Dave

DaveH · « **Reply #14 on:** June 12, 2011, 08:54:46 PM »

Dave,

That looks very interesting.

I will have a good read tomorrow, I'm off to get some beauty sleep (I really need it).

It's nearly 3 in the morning here.

Have a good day Dave - thanks for the chat and input.

DaveH

Davo J · « **Reply #15 on:** June 12, 2011, 09:00:11 PM »

See ya

It's only 11:30 am here, so I am off to the shed.

Dave

DaveH · « **Reply #16 on:** June 13, 2011, 07:50:36 AM »

Dave,

After looking at that post, I understand now.

I'm just going to make the adapter for the ER25 chuck.

However I like the idea of making a nose reciever.

DaveH

MadModder

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