Author Topic: Craynerd builds Wilding's - Woodward's Gearless Clock (Read 135336 times)

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #100 on:** July 19, 2011, 12:30:59 PM »

Nice going Chris

,,,,,,,,,,, looks dam fiddly

Rob

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #101 on:** July 19, 2011, 01:00:10 PM »

Chris.
You're producing some good results these days.......

David D

raynerd · « **Reply #102 on:** July 19, 2011, 02:02:23 PM »

David, thanks for your post. I am improving but I`m still not patient enough. I need to learn to sit for longer on one thing if I am eventually to make a Tourbillon, but that is a story for another day.... In retrospect, more time should have been taken burnishing the wheel crossings but to be honest, I`ve only just read a good method of doing it so I suppose I`m just still learning and the next wheel will be better.

Thanks to everyone else for their replies of encouragement.

Spurry/Pete, yes I had to insert each pin into a pin vice and turn the end down on a fine stone. I didn`t include this process in my pin making time! To be honest, it wasn`t really a radius, just as long as there was no sharp points. The beauty of the punch is that it forced the wire inwards to bring it to a nice clean cut tapering slightly in. Using a grinding wheel on a dremel left a very sharp edge and caused a lot of filing to be done. This method only required a quick tidy up of the cut end, I didn`t truely round them.

Hopefully I will find time over the next few nights to make the arbour and the mounting plates.

Chris

Spurry · « **Reply #103 on:** July 19, 2011, 02:20:24 PM »

Hi Chris

Thanks for the additional snippets. Seen and noted.

Pete

raynerd · « **Reply #104 on:** July 19, 2011, 06:29:17 PM »

Made the pin wheel arbour tonight which also doubles up as the drive pully. There is a few issues with this related to the type of line I ultimately use. Basically, the drive wheel obtains it rotation from the falling weight, simply by the friction of the line pulling over the pully. As you can imagine, this is tricky as if the angle is too sharp in the V groove of the drive pully, the line can bind and if too narrow, the line will slip. I chose to follow more advice by John (Gadget Builder) who has suggested to me I try 45 deg as Dr Woodward did and use monofillament line. I can always open up this angle and try builders line if I want to, but couldn`t go the other way unless I remade the pully.

Set about cutting a 45deg V form tool and cutting the pully V:

Collet and arbour complete:

And complete wheel on arbour with a bearing with 1/8" ID stuck on the end just to check they fit

Plates next and then get the wheel mounted.

Chris

saw · « **Reply #105 on:** July 20, 2011, 01:54:59 PM »

This project is come along just fine

arnoldb · « **Reply #106 on:** July 20, 2011, 02:16:29 PM »

You're turning out some top notch work here Chris

- really good going

, Arnold

DaveH · « **Reply #107 on:** July 21, 2011, 03:27:46 AM »

Nicely done Chris

DaveH

Henning · « **Reply #108 on:** July 28, 2011, 04:20:22 PM »

Now THAT is an excellent piece of engineering!

Beautifully done there!

BiggerHammer · « **Reply #109 on:** July 28, 2011, 05:07:34 PM »

Very nice work once again. Saw the pinwheel and had a flashback to all those old science fiction movies I used to watch. Looks a lot like one of the space stations.

raynerd · « **Reply #110 on:** July 30, 2011, 04:29:03 AM »

Thanks guys! I`ve been on holiday so only just read the last few messages. I got a bit more done actually and the wheel is now mounted on its bearings! I`ve got a few jobs to do in my workshop so work has stopped for another week but should get back at it next week. Thanks again.

Chris

raynerd · « **Reply #111 on:** August 04, 2011, 05:53:13 PM »

Both wheel mounted and some pleasing filing on the arc!!

DaveH · « **Reply #112 on:** August 04, 2011, 06:02:14 PM »

Oh very smart Chris

DaveH

doubleboost · « **Reply #113 on:** August 04, 2011, 06:05:48 PM »

Hi
Chris
Coming on very nicely

Looks a bit fiddly for me

Young eyes must help i supose

raynerd · « **Reply #114 on:** August 04, 2011, 07:33:11 PM »

Thanks chaps. It is coming on very very slowly as I`m changing my workshop to be a little more suited to clock and watch repair/making. I`ve just pulled up the swarf ridden wooden slated flooring and have replaced it with vinyl so that I can sweep it and retreive lost parts. That does mean I`ll need to be much more clinical with my maching and keep the floor and surfaces cleaner. That is now down but it was a huge task! I`ve also replaced an entire bench with a watchmakers high seated desk. The desk is currently half made but should be finished in the next few days.
Chris

DaveH · « **Reply #115 on:** August 05, 2011, 05:10:47 AM »

Chris,

Quote from: craynerd on August 04, 2011, 07:33:11 PM

The desk is currently half made but should be finished in the next few days.
Chris

DaveH

raynerd · « **Reply #116 on:** August 05, 2011, 10:48:34 AM »

lol, my woodworking skills aren`t up to much but i`ll post a few pre-painted pictures later tonight.

Chris

raynerd · « **Reply #117 on:** August 12, 2011, 08:01:54 AM »

Well I finally finished my workshop tidy up and made my little watchmakers bench. Isn`t much but does the job for me and is very sturdy. I`ve never had a desk in my workshop so it good having somewhere to sit and think and put my legs under! The lower top stands about 36" and the upper working surface top stands at 44" which makes it chest height when sat down as a watchmakers bench should be. I must admit, it is really comfortable sat at this height when working on delicate stuff (I dismanteld and rebuilt a smiths pocket watch yesterday on it just to "test" it!)

...and with the workshop now back together again, I continued for a few hours with the clock. I decided to make the impulse pawl and then all pendulum parts are complete.

And mounted on the pendulum...

DaveH · « **Reply #118 on:** August 13, 2011, 07:32:32 AM »

Chris,

Nice looking bench, just the job

Your clock is coming along very nicely.

Really looks good

Some good workmanship

DaveH

spuddevans · « **Reply #119 on:** August 13, 2011, 09:34:23 AM »

That's a nice looking workstation Chris, and great progress on the clock too.

Tim

raynerd · « **Reply #120 on:** August 13, 2011, 11:14:36 AM »

Thanks Dave and Tim.

I spent a few hours this morning when everyone was in bed completing the "gated detent". This is a critical part, it allows a single pin on the pin wheel to slide through the gate but catches and holds the next pin until the next impulse.

The paddles were made from 0.02" steel shim but I couldn`t find anything suitable, so I butchered one of my very cheap shim gauges. The price of the gauge was no more than I would have been willing to pay for a suitable piece of stock. It was a pain because it was hardened or stainless? I could only cut it with a dremel grinding disk which worked quite well.

When an impulse occurs, the paddle tips down and a pin slides along the top of the top blade and falls throught the gate where it catches on the lip sticking out on the bottom (the bottom paddle). As the deten tips, it tips off the pin from the bottom paddle/detent which then accepts and catches the new pin.
It was very small, the bottom paddle sticks out only 1/32" but can be adjusted by the bottom screw.

Next onto the mountain brackets. Then I still want to go back and make my count wheel again.

Rick O Shea · « **Reply #121 on:** August 13, 2011, 02:13:43 PM »

Hi Chris
your clock project is looking very good. I wonder if you have considered using suspension spring steel , which is avaliable in quite a few sizes and is not terrible expensive. When cutting spring really you cant............... so I tend to break it over a very sharp edge of a vice or similar, as you know is is a real pain to cut, the way that I was taught to get a hole in it was to use a punch. If you have a look on any web auction site a set of 'staking tools' will be well worth while buying 'specally if you are going to get in to clock and watch repair and making.
I recon you are making a very good job of what is not a simple project by any means.

best of luck

raynerd · « **Reply #122 on:** August 13, 2011, 05:38:29 PM »

Hi Rick - yes, I thought about spring steel after I had decided to use this spare slip gauge. I punched the spring steel earlier in this thread to form the suspension spring but this little piece was much smaller and more delicate with a critical slot. I`m actually picking up a nice Boley staking set on Friday, so I`ll post a few pics on here when it arrives. It is hard to find literature on how exactly it is and can be used. Thanks for the interest and advice...!

Chris

raynerd · « **Reply #123 on:** August 16, 2011, 04:08:24 PM »

Gated Detent mounted and functioning correctly! It allows a pin to slip through the gate and immediately catches it on the bottom lip until the force is removed from the pin wheel or the pin wheel is rotated a little in reverse by the pendulum:

Here is the adjustable bracket that holds the gated detent in position:

..and mounted;

Now I`ve moved onto the deflector piece:

Roughed out:

and then filed to shape with pawls attached:

Hopefully get that mounted in the next few days...

Chris

CallMeAl · « **Reply #124 on:** August 16, 2011, 11:36:28 PM »

Coming along nicely. I like you use of an old feeler gauge for thin stock. I have to remember to do that with the several gauges I have with the numbers worn off or unreadable.

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Author Topic: Craynerd builds Wilding's - Woodward's Gearless Clock (Read 135336 times)

Rob.Wilson