Author Topic: Craynerd builds Wilding's - Woodward's Gearless Clock (Read 167520 times)

raynerd · « **Reply #50 on:** June 29, 2011, 08:57:49 AM »

Thank you everyone for your interest and comments! I`ll tidy the wheel up tonight and then hopefully make the back stop pawl and supporting bracket. The wheel will then get mounted on the backplate and once the gathering pawl is made, I`ll be able to test it for counting out a minute.

Thanks again...

raynerd · « **Reply #51 on:** June 29, 2011, 05:40:07 PM »

Cut the deeper tooth and made the mounting arbour this evening. Tapping the 12BA was a little hairy and I just managed to get the distance right so that the screw heads didn`t foul the wheel mounting post

Still needs more sanding and burnishing the top of the wheel but I think I`ll do that in a few evenings.

I must admit, I`m pretty please with it!!

srm_92000 · « **Reply #52 on:** June 29, 2011, 06:46:12 PM »

So you should be Chris - nice work

When you cut the teeth did you do it in one pass or feed in a little on the y then take the several cuts using the x axis?

Just curious.

Steve.

raynerd · « **Reply #53 on:** June 29, 2011, 07:01:15 PM »

Steve, as instructed in the vast majority of literature that I have read, including John Wildings build notes and also Colin Throne's Clock making for the model engineer, I take the entire cut in one pass, nice a slowly. With this CZ120 engravers brass, with a nice sharp tool it is a little noisey (I think my machine could do with running a bit faster but I`m at top speed), the cut is very neat.

Thanks for your comment and your interest.

Chris

srm_92000 · « **Reply #54 on:** June 29, 2011, 07:35:47 PM »

Cheers Chris,

Going to have to be doing my Webster gears soon so planning ahead, though I'll probably half cheat and buy the cutters.

We need a crossed fingers smiley

.

Steve.

BiggerHammer · « **Reply #55 on:** June 29, 2011, 07:39:27 PM »

Looking very nice. That gear looks outstanding.

raynerd · « **Reply #56 on:** June 30, 2011, 03:10:37 AM »

Steve, buying the cutters will save a lot of time but I cut my webster gears using my own gear cutter - I just more or less followed John Stevensons excellent gear cutting instructions and did some calculations:
http://www.raynerd.co.uk/?p=1069

Cheers Biggerhammer -yes I`m pleased with it. I must admit the crossing out isn`t crisp and tidy, or to clockmakers perfection - I don`t know how they get it like that!! Mine still looks a little like a beaver chewed the centre out

Anzaniste · « **Reply #57 on:** June 30, 2011, 03:11:30 AM »

All very encouraging. I liked the sitting on the board idea but did it make your back ache?
Great effort Chris, well done

raynerd · « **Reply #58 on:** June 30, 2011, 04:47:55 AM »

Back ache?? -I sometimes get it after a few games of football, a round of golf and then carrying my daughter around town while shopping...but I was OK filing a clock wheel

Only joking, Anzanise, I do understand it may potentially give some people back ache but I was fine. Thanks for posting.

Chris

kwackers · « **Reply #59 on:** June 30, 2011, 05:35:39 AM »

Quote from: craynerd on June 30, 2011, 03:10:37 AM

I must admit the crossing out isn`t crisp and tidy, or to clockmakers perfection - I don`t know how they get it like that!! Mine still looks a little like a beaver chewed the centre out

Small files and a bit of patience...

Take your time and draw file the crossings with a good set of sharp jewellers files. For finishing a bit of dowel with metal polish - should only need a few wipes to prevent the corners rounding.

raynerd · « **Reply #60 on:** July 10, 2011, 04:16:45 AM »

I started working on the clock again this week, didn`t get very far but here is an update on the bridge plate and pillars:

Marked out the plate:

And roughed to shape with a file:

I then went a made a depth stop for my lathe as described by John in his "backstop" thread

With the backstop, it was easy to get two the same length solving all previous issues when I`ve tried this!

I then drilled a tommy bar hole in the end to ensure we can tighten these onto the back plate:

The bottom end of the pillar is threaded M3 but I had concerns that I couldn`t thread it all the way using a die, I always end up with an untreaded stub so consequently it won`t screw down to the shoulder. I normally just nick this with a parting tool but with only 1/8" of thread, I wanted as much thread as possible. So instead of threading, I drilled and tapped and using loctite, glued in two M3 screws, letting the glue dry and then cutting the thread to size:

As suggested in the plans, to profile the pillar I screwed it into a piece of scrap barstock threaded in the lathe and could then work on the entire length.

And the two finished:

And the pillars and bridge mounted on the backplate:

Next thing is to drill the pivot holes and so it is suggested I remove the pillars and drill through the bridge and packplate together to ensure they are aligned!

kvom · « **Reply #61 on:** July 10, 2011, 11:02:35 AM »

Is there a reason you couldn't just tap the pillars and screw in from the back? Or drill and ream the plate and loctite the pillar to it?

raynerd · « **Reply #62 on:** July 10, 2011, 11:11:25 AM »

Quote from: kvom on July 10, 2011, 11:02:35 AM

Is there a reason you couldn't just tap the pillars and screw in from the back? Or drill and ream the plate and loctite the pillar to it?

I expect not but the plans showed that they should be threaded and screwed into the plate so like a blind dog I just followed. I wouldn`t have liked to loctited them in place but certainly screwing in from the back would have been easier....I presume there must be a reason as other parts have been held to the back plate like this.

raynerd · « **Reply #63 on:** July 11, 2011, 05:49:51 AM »

Starting to look like a clock now. I cut my pivots, burnished them and polished the pivot holes in the frame. Made a nice little pivot holder and split collet and all worked very well. Nice bit of endshake, perhaps a fraction too much but for this clock will work ok. Just came on here to post pictures of the

, showing off my results to find that I didn`t have a SD card in this stupid new camera

For some reason it does`t bother telling you there is no SD card present and proceeds to appear like everything is taking like normal

Anyway, I have a wheel mounted and free turning

NickG · « **Reply #64 on:** July 11, 2011, 06:03:48 AM »

Nice work Chris. I used to turn little spigots on the bottom of stuff but then saw some of Jan Ridders engines just tapped and a screw through so started doing that, it's easier!

our camera does that too - there is a certain amount of internal memory but means you need to connect the usb cable to get them off! As you say, doesn't tell you though!

Nick

raynerd · « **Reply #65 on:** July 12, 2011, 04:10:31 PM »

I managed to get some snaps and make a little more progress

, although a step back at the same time

Here is the wheel mounted on the clock:

I then started the count wheel arbor:

I didn`t get any photos of burnishing the pivots on the wheel, so here is my simple setup I used. This was actually on the count wheel pawl pivots

Here is the count pawl and pivot

...and then with the bracket, please bear in mind it all needs polishing. Notce that the side frames are also pinned to keep the pivot holes aligned.

.....it all mounted

It worked so well! I obviously had to hold a back stop but the pendulum "counted" the wheel teeth!!

I did say some bad news

that being that my deep tooth is too deep and the angle of the tooth too steep so that the pawl gets stuck when it drops into it. I`m a bit dissapointed but things look like they are going to work OK !

andyf · « **Reply #66 on:** July 12, 2011, 04:29:53 PM »

Hi Chris,

It certainly looks like clockwork. Shame about the one deep gap between two teeth. Could you attach a tiny "roof" to the pawl, which would drop into contact with the crest of the adjacent tooth before the pawl goes too far down the offending gap?

Andy

raynerd · « **Reply #67 on:** July 12, 2011, 05:23:21 PM »

Hi Andy, just to be clear but I think you do understand, one of the gaps is intentially deeper than the rest. This is to allow the pawl to drop down further once a revolution and engage a "lever" which kicks into motion the impulse module. I don`t know if there is much I can do. I can try and reduce the slope but this will reduce the tooth depth on the other side. I think however, this may be OK as the backstop will still catch it. I could try something as you have suggested, but with 1/32" wire, I expect this will be harder than building a new wheel. I don`t know, something to think about.

Chris

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #68 on:** July 12, 2011, 05:36:37 PM »

nice going Chris

looks like a clock to me

So thats what the widget you had in the drill chuck is used for

Rob

raynerd · « **Reply #69 on:** July 12, 2011, 06:20:37 PM »

Yea, its a poor mans Jocots tool!!

It worked just fine and allows you to really push down hard on the little 1mm dia pivot for burnishing without snapping. The brass split collet also made life easier for cutting down the little pivot.

BiggerHammer · « **Reply #70 on:** July 12, 2011, 07:55:19 PM »

I would suggest putting a dab of silver solder in the "special" gap. Then you could re-machine it to the desired depth. Though I must admit I do not know if brazing on something that delicate would be possible without distorting the part. (I still think it looks smashing though.)

sbwhart · « **Reply #71 on:** July 13, 2011, 03:18:52 AM »

Looking a proper Job

I wouldn't do anything with that escape wheel until you've got some more bits done, you never know it may be ok with more parts arround it.

Stew

raynerd · « **Reply #72 on:** July 13, 2011, 04:55:29 PM »

Well taking your advice Stew, I carried on making the back stop tonight and it didn`t bind as much as I thought, infact the pawl did get up a couple of times. Maybe I can rescue it!

This video is well out of focus as I had to resurrect my semi-dead camera to take it, but it looks nice to me

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #73 on:** July 13, 2011, 05:15:32 PM »

nice one Chris

Rob

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #74 on:** July 14, 2011, 01:49:08 AM »

Looking good...... And progressing very well Chris!

David D

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Author Topic: Craynerd builds Wilding's - Woodward's Gearless Clock (Read 167520 times)

Rob.Wilson

Rob.Wilson