I recently acquired a few HSS slitting saws with 1” keyed bore, in thicknesses from .040 to .125” (Thanks again AdeV). Now I need to make an arbor for them, for my X2 mill which has an R8 spindle.
I have Googled, and Googled, gathering drawings, articles, and tips.
Here’s what I think I know:
Arbors for slitting saws are available commercially, of varying quality, shank type, clamping method (internal or external cap, multi sized bore), and of course varying price.
Slitting saws, as opposed to wood working saws are hollow ground for clearance, like a parting tool, so they are thinner at the bore.
For the hobby machinist, it is not necessary to include the key, so if the saw jams, it will spin on the arbor, rather than shatter. (I also have the X2 belt drive Mod, so not an issue)
Though I have found some I consider affordable, I would rather make one.
What I would like to do is start a discussion on the general attributes of a good, serviceable, shop made saw arbor. Would you use an internal cap, or external cap, and why? Would you make it on a R8 blank stub, or straight shank to be used in a collet, and why? The biggest R8 blank stub I can find is 1 1/8”. Is that big enough? Does the arbor need to be hardened/tempered or not, and why?
How much bigger than the 1” bore, does the clamping part need to be? 1 1/8”? 1 ¼”? 1 ½” (diameters) ?
I hope I’m making sense. I have enough confidence in my abilities to make the arbor, but have been confused by the many design variations. Plus, I’m not an engineer.
Thanks in advance to all who contribute to my education.
Chuck in E. TN