Author Topic: Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build  (Read 64147 times)

Offline metalmad

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Re: Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build
« Reply #100 on: June 21, 2011, 04:08:01 AM »
Hi Peter
I really like the second flywheel idea
Ive never seen it before  :clap: :clap:
Pete :wave:
A little bit every day, sometimes the same little bit!

Offline klank

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Re: Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build
« Reply #101 on: June 21, 2011, 08:07:33 AM »
Rob, Pete,

Thanks for the encouragement - you make much better engines with no mistakes!

Peter

Offline saw

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Re: Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build
« Reply #102 on: June 21, 2011, 05:12:38 PM »
It's looking very good, keep up with your'e good work. :thumbup:
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Greetings / Benni
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Offline klank

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Re: Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build
« Reply #103 on: June 29, 2011, 01:12:59 PM »
Thank you Benni - sorry about the delay in replying - some domestic issues cropped up and I haven't really been able to get much done in the workshop.

Not a great deal to show - but here's whats been done recently.

There were two gunmetal castings for the valve supplied in the kit! The "spare" is shown in the photo.
Anyway - it is a fairly straightforward job to finish this - using the four jaw to bring it square/to size, and then some careful milling to finish the valve pocket on the underside and the slots for the valve rod and nut.
As it says in the instructions by SB, it is essential to get the slot for the nut spot on in size and truly square to the valve body.
The slot for the valve rod was very carefully marked, popped and drilled through first in the four jaw, then using the mill to make the slot down into the drilled chanel.
No material appeared to be supplied for the nut - this was machined from a piece of scrap brass bar - once again the tapped hole (5BA) being marked and drilled with care. The valve rod is from 1/8" stainless steel (supplied), threaded 5BA each end :-




The valve rod cross head is a straightforward machining job from 1/4" mild steel bar as supplied. The plan is a bit "off" in that it shows the crosshead tapped 6BA - it should be 5BA! :-






Both eccentrics are machined from a generous length of 1" mild steel bar suppled.
The one for the water pump is straightforward to machine using a parting tool blade/rear tool post :-





I made the two eccentrics seperately - marking out the off-set and drilling/reaming for the crankshaft in the four jaw after setting them to run true around the popped mark.
Parting off whilst eccentrically mounted in the four jaw was interesting - a sort of "interrupted cut" - but the tool blade finishes up nicely into the reamed hole.
The eccentric for the valve also includes a collar to take the securing grub screw - which makes adjustment of the valve timing a lot easier - without having to de-mount the eccentric strap each time an adjustment is necessary if the eccentric were secured by a grub screw through its main body - which IS the case for the pump eccentric. I suspect setting the pump travel is a much easier exersize, so its not such a chore.
Here are the results (yet to be cross drilled/tapped) with the castings supplied for the straps. :-





I'll do the straps next.

Offline klank

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Re: Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build
« Reply #104 on: July 01, 2011, 11:53:22 AM »
After a little filing,squaring up and such, the strap castings were drilled through for 7BA tapping size in each shoulder, and split as per the plan using a fine slitting saw - gently!
Not forgetting to centre pop the mating halves to avoid confusion later!
The lower (squre) segments were tapped and the uppers (curved) drilled through clearance and the two halves bolted together with the (supplied) small hex headed 7 BA screws.

I appreciate this is all pretty basic stuff for many - but for beginners - its not so daunting.

Each prepared strap then needs boring out to the actual diameter and facing/thinning to the size of its respective eccentric, plus a tiny whisker.

I chose to use the four jaw, fitting up a back-stop to support the rear face of each strap.
In the SB article, the centre is found using a fixed pointer to get the casting hole "sort of where you want it" - if it works for you, then fine. I don't like that and would prefer to mark properly the centre point.
I find the quickest and easiest way is to fill the casting hole with candle wax :-







I just "caressed" the knob of wax with a very low propane torch (any heat source will do - even a hair drier!).
When the wax is nearly set, I gently rub the face along a flat plastic surface to finish it off.
Any mistakes can be easily rectified with a few dribbles from the candle!

The correct centre point from the plan can then be gently scribed and the point gently popped with the pointy bit of the scriber. (Just think classical Latin/Greek writings! - the result is quite resilient).

The strap can then be set up in the 4 jaw in the usual fashion using a wobbler in the centre point. (Just be a tad more gentle when setting it up). :-





The bore can now be machined - I use a Glanze boring bar in a home made holder. The wax comes away quite easily!
After boring to size, the face can be finished and bought to near size for thickness. :-





The strap is then turned around in the 4 jaw putting the machined face against the backstop, and the other face machined to size to fit the eccentric.

Here's the result - awaiting final finishing.  :-




I always build - up as I go to ensure everything fits and works together, but leave the final surface (cosmetic finish) to the end of the build - just in case of accidents when handling!

The next job is the valve and pump rods.
The original plan calls for these to be simply made from flat bar stock - functional but looking a bit basic!
There are plans given - to a certain extent, one page is missing! - to fit alternative tapered, round rods in place of the originals. Fitting these to the eccentric strap - buckles looks a bit of a job - involving milling out a pair of steel square shaped forks to fit around the gun metal tongues on the straps. Need some thoughts on this.

Offline ozzie46

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Re: Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build
« Reply #105 on: July 01, 2011, 02:59:10 PM »


  That candle trick is really neat! I'll be borrow-- stealing it! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
   
  It's coming along nicely.

 Ron

Offline klank

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Re: Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build
« Reply #106 on: July 01, 2011, 03:38:23 PM »
Thanks Ron - you're more than welcome.

Its probably been done before, I am sure its not original - but I was stuck for a means of "filler" on my first ever engine eccentric - and wax from an old candle seemed a viable option - its worked fine. I also used wax on its cylinder bore (the ever popular Stuart 10H).