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| changing nose |
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| bambuko:
--- Quote from: Swarfing ---...Because the nose is very flat against the machine i could afford to bolt the mount directly to the existing A1? ... --- End quote --- I am not sure I follow you? --- Quote from: Swarfing ---...If i could i would love to change the nose for a D1... --- End quote --- I doubt it can be done easily. --- Quote from: Swarfing ---...I can not get any of the suppliers to confirm if a standard D1-4 chuck has holes that go from front to back... --- End quote --- Even if it did, why do you assume that they would be on correct (for your purpose) PCD? No supplier will get involved in your mods - the moment you start drilling their product, you are on your own. D1 chuck you linked to (from RDG) is camlock fitted. It will definitely not have any bolts fitting it from the front through the chuck body. --- Quote from: Swarfing ---...i have an independent for four four jaw that mounts directly to the nose already... ...getting fed up not being able to make swarf ... --- End quote --- If you have four jaw chuck, than there is nothing stopping you making swarf - you will just get more practice setting things up in four jaw :thumbup: Chris |
| Swarfing:
I hear you Chris and your right in all aspects but if i want to keep the cost down then i have to do what i need to do. The PCD of the cam lock pins is the same as the old holes of the A1 if i was to go for a purpose D1 chuck (hence the need for the bolts to go all the way through). The link i showed before for the D1-4 chuck clearly shows bolts on the front next to the bore. What are they for if nothing to do with the cam lock pins? if they are for the cam lock pins then i have my bolt holes through the chuck? The other option is as you have pointed out is to spend the money. The reality is this is a high precision lathe which i bought and put back together on a shoe string budget. I've been waiting over five weeks to make some proper swarf with it and it just gets a bit frustrating. Image of chuck in question is the 160mm http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.rdgtools.co.uk%2facatalog%2f3_JAW_LATHE_CHUCKS.html&WD=8756841f25&PN=D-14_CAMLOCK__M300___COLCHESTER_STUDANT__MASTER_.html%23a8756841F25#a8756841F25 I pulled the back plate off the original three jaw tonight to see if i could do anything with it and who ever fitted it originally did a bad job. The holes were drilled through from the front of the chuck and they do not line up at the back with the nose properly. All for the bin.............. |
| bambuko:
--- Quote from: Swarfing ---...if i want to keep the cost down then i have to do what i need to do... --- End quote --- I definitely understand :thumbup: --- Quote from: Swarfing ---...The link i showed before for the D1-4 chuck clearly shows bolts on the front next to the bore. What are they for if nothing to do with the cam lock pins?... --- End quote --- They are nothing to do with camlock pins. Normally chuck is made in two pieces and these bolts are there to hold the two halves together. On chucks where you don't see them at the front, they are simply done from behind: For example, bolts in the front: Bolts (9) are holding together front (1) and rear (2) of the chuck. This is an example directly mounted short taper spindle chuck. Bolts (8) could be replaced by camlock pins. Or another example, bolts from behind: Again, bolts (9) are holding together front (1) and rear (2) of the chuck. This an example of plain back chuck, requiring backplate to fit it to the spindle. Backplate, in this example, is fitted from the back using bolts (8). Often/sometimes these bolts (8) are fitted from the front. You will see from this (I hope) that PCD of the bolt heads you see on the front of the chuck in picture you have linked has nothing to do with your needs and is entirely at the discretion of the chuck designer. You might be lucky, but than you might not, plus you can't remove them anyway, or your chuck will fall to pieces :clap: (unless you introduce another way of holding the two halves together?) --- Quote from: Swarfing ---...this is a high precision lathe which i bought and put back together on a shoe string budget... --- End quote --- Yes this is very nice lathe indeed, I am envious ::) --- Quote from: Swarfing ---...I've been waiting over five weeks to make some proper swarf with it and it just gets a bit frustrating.... --- End quote --- I understand your frustration, but if I were you I would get on with using four jaw chuck, which I understand you have? --- Quote from: Swarfing ---I pulled the back plate off the original three jaw tonight to see if i could do anything with it and who ever fitted it originally did a bad job. The holes were drilled through from the front of the chuck and they do not line up at the back with the nose properly. All for the bin.............. --- End quote --- Why should it be for the bin? Holes in the backplate are just clearance, just open them up. Location is provided by the spindle taper, bolts are just used to secure it on the spindle not to locate it. I am not sure I understand you here? Chris |
| bambuko:
Hi Paul, In case it helps you - I have taken apart my D1-3 chuck and taken photo: This particular one secures rear half with bolts on the outside perimeter, so it should be possible to do what you were planning. Chris |
| Swarfing:
Hi Chris thanks for that and just to let you know I've made an adapter plate to fit between the back plate off the old chuck and my chuck from my old lathe. Interestingly i made it out of fibreglass and it works a treat. i will just have to keep my eyes peeled for a proper job. Your pic though does show that it would be possible to covert your chuck to an A1-3 mount. Thanks for the help. Paul |
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