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| changing nose |
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| Swarfing:
Guys I have a Vernier TV-280 lathe (Metric) that has an A1-4 short nose mount. I need to replace the 160mm 3 jaw as it is knacked (scrolls worn, jaws worn, inner slots worn. I'm having real issue with suppliers not understanding this mount no matter how simple i explain. It is metric, common as muck in the rest of Europe but not here. It has 2 circles of bolt holes and the inner ones are M9 outer M10. The foot print of this mount is the same as an D1-4 so i believe i could use the same backplate arrangement with the cam lock pins removed? not a problem as long as i have a chuck that i can drill through the front and miss the scrolls? I can not get any of the suppliers to confirm if a standard D1-4 chuck has holes that go from front to back yet all the pics i see show what i believe to be the case. Could somebody with a D1-4 mount with screws showing on the front around the spindle hole confirm whether these holes go all the way through (some chucks don't i know already). The taper on the spigot is the same and the circle is same. My other option is change the mount to a D cam lock mount but do not know if this is possible without replacing the whole spindle....Please help getting fed up not being able to make swarf :( |
| Davo J:
I have a D1-4 mount but all my studs screw in from the back. I would need to be a small chuck to have holes all the way through to miss the scroll. A back plate mount might be better for you to mount a chuck? Dave |
| bambuko:
I feel some sympathy with the suppliers because they must be perplexed by your question ... The pics of chucks with bolts from the front that you see are for the "front fitting chucks" - this refers to bolts used to fix the chuck to a backplate. There can also be "rear fitting chucks" were the backplate is bolted to the chuck from behind. These bolts have nothing to do with the studs used to fix backplate to the spindle. The studs used for fixing of the backplate (and the chuck) to lathe spindle are screwed into the backplate from behind. That is, assuming that you use backplate - you can also get chucks with rear ends made to fit directly to lathe spindle without needing backplate, but they are prohibitively expensive. So in your case, assuming that you want to modify D1 backplate with studs to suit A1 spindle, the only thing you have to is to remove backplate from the chuck and than remove cam lock pins and add four threaded holes on correct PCD to accept whatever studs you desire. There is no need to drill chuck body at all! Alternatively, you might be able to get backplates from people like Rotagrip. Here a pic of what I am talking about: Your new chuck registers on diameter K, and the studs to fix to lathe spindle are screwed onto backplate from the left. So you fit the chuck to backplate and backplate attaches the chuck to the spindle. Of course D1 will only have one row of studs (unlike A1, which has two) but it doesn't matter - one lot should be enough. Hopefully I understood your question better than the suppliers you talked to? and this info helps, but if you need more - shout. Chris ps the pic shows backplate for DIN 55027 chuck, but this doesn't matter - the principle is the same for all. |
| Swarfing:
Don't worry i have not just relied on my description but sent them the nose data. Look at the link below and what i have is the top one. I did think about mounting up a standard din chuck but the i would have to worry about two lots of bolts when changing chucks which i do frequently. My lathe only has a 27mm bore down the spindle so to get the mounting holes to miss the scrolls is not really an issue. It is all catch 22 with need a working lathe to work a chuck for the lathe i'm working :bang: http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page10.html |
| bambuko:
That's the whole point - you don't need to miss the scrolls ... and that is what I was trying to explain. Obviously haven't done good enough job. I am not sure that I understand what your problem is ... Buy a chuck, buy a semi-finished backplate, fit the backplate to your spindle, turn register diameter (to suit the chuck you have bought), fit the chuck to thus finished backplate and Bob is your uncle. At no point does it involve drilling a chuck, or missing scrolls, or am I missing something? Chris EDIT - I think I get it - it's the inner circle of chuck fixing bolts that bothers you? If so, just don't use them |
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