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| an engine repair |
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| shoey51:
Thanks every one for your kind words. the plans finally turned up from Reeves and after getting them laminated I started to compare the plans to the engine that i have. there are a few changes that had been done mainly in the way the valve linkages were made. Have decided to make a new axle so will start that as soon as I get some steel |
| shoey51:
I have a question I need answering. Ive been working on turning down a new axle and find there is a taper. there is a .2 mm difference in the diameter of the rod from the chuck end and the stock end is there a way to fix this. sorry for my stupid question but im still learning. the difference is over the 10" length im turning down. Axle will be shorter when finnished but im trying to get a start point to work from. cheers Graham |
| sbwhart:
Hi Graham I take it over that lenthe that your using a centre if so you should be able to slew your tail stop over to straighten things out, if you look at the base of the tail stop ther should be a screw either side oposit each other, what you do is slaken one side off and tigten the other up this has the effect of slewing the tail stop over. If the bar is small at the tail stop end then you need to slew it towards you, if its small at the chuck end then slew it away from you. This is how it looks on my lathe Hope this helps |
| Stilldrillin:
Just taken the words out of me mouth Stew! :thumbup: David D |
| John Stevenson:
Before you starts alter the tailstock you need to know if the lathe is turning parallel on juts a piece in the chuck. If it's not correctly levelled this will happen and altering the tailstock will only be good for that length. First off check with a good level, not a builders level that it is level across the bed at the chuck, across the bed at the tailstock end and along the bed. Shim or adjust levelling feet to suit. Then get a steel bar about 1" diameter and with 6" sticking out the chuck centre drill it and support from tailstock. Then relieve the 4" centre section to about 3/4" diameter leaving 1" untouched at either end. Move the tailstock out the way and take a light cut along the two raised surfaces without altering any settings and take a measurement. They should be the same. If so move the tailstock back into play and repeat. You can now see if there is any difference and which way to go. If the first test shows different readings then it shows the lathe isn't level and you will have to jack it up to correct it. If the outer sticky out end is smaller then pack the rear tailstock end of the bed up and retry. If the chuck end is larger then adjust the rear of the headstock end. What ever happens get the unsupported bar cutting correct before you even think about touching the tailstock or else you will be chasing tapers for the whole of the while you have the lathe. Non of the sizes of bar are critical, use anything you have within reason John S |
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