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| shoey51:
not sure if this is the right place to post this mods please move if needed. I have started a thread on a to steam forum of this repair job and a very good friend pmed me and sugested I might get a more informed help on this forum (thanks David aka Stilldrillin) My little loco engine was starting to rock and roll badly while being drive so I thought it time I investigated. I jacked up the rear of the loco and removed the axle I used a small car jack to do this here is the loco now resting on blocks whith axle removed. the axle removed I could see the problem also it looked like the previous owner had tried to weld the wheel to the axle. so i was pondering what to do next :scratch: the wheel was loose so i presumed the weld hadnt taken trying to to weld steel to cast isnt easy. so I took the axle to work as they have a nice press there and managed to remove both wheels and discovered this the wheel had been scotchlocked and the thread had been welded :bang: so im throwing it it out to the experts for help in what they think may be the best solution to fix this. cheers Graham |
| Stilldrillin:
Hi Graham. Nice to see you've posted. There's more engineering expertise over here...... I hope! :scratch: I've noticed several members over there, posting engineering/ machining subjects. Can't understand why they're not 'ere..... ::) We're quite a friendly bunch, as you know! :thumbup: My only thoughts, so far, are to bore out the wheel and sleeve back to standard. Then the axle looks a relatively simple job to replace the worn section. Lets see what the others think........ :smart: David D |
| Bogstandard:
Actually, that is a recognised method of locking two parts together, but usually you would use a couple or three screws, equispaced around the shaft and wheel, not just one. You will most probably need to make a new axle shaft to sort out your bearing problem first. Then cut a new keyway into it and clean up the keyway slot in the wheel to match. I personally would then recut the original welded over screwthread and put a grub screw in there. Then drill two more holes, not quite as big as the first one will end up, one either side of the key, making the holes equidistant from each other, and thread and grub screw those as well. Drill thru the wheel hub into the key, and thread the hole and key, and put another grub screw into that, which will stop the key coming out of it's slot. By doing it that way, you should easily be able to remove the wheel by taking out the three grub screws around the axle end and sliding it off the axle. There are many ways to fix things like this together, I have just given you an easy option. Bogs |
| sbwhart:
Hi Graham sorry to see your engine in dock. Its good advice from John about how to fix the wheel back on, the other option would be to bore the wheel out and rebush it back to size, the bush can be pressed in with a little high strength loctite but there is a risk of craking the wheel if you get the interfearance wrong, so I'd go with Johns method first. The wheel problem may be a result of the knackered bearing one leading to the other. Whilst you've got the axle boxes off have you thought of fitting roller bearings you'd have to bore the boxes out to take the bearings and make new axles, a lot of the 5" guys at our club run with roller bearing in their axle boxes. Stew |
| madjackghengis:
Hi Graham, in reading all the knowlegable answers, I thought I'd let you have my thoughts, from a purely mechanic's perspective, from here in the colonies. John has the straight forward repair, and it's nice and solid, I'd add welding up the axle where its buggered up, and turn down the welded section, over replacing the axle, all that assuming the rest of the axle is in good shape and solid. What John says gives you four separate locks, and substantially more bearing area of the locks, which would make it far more resistant to working loose, and once it works loose to start with, there's only looser, no turning back. I believe I'd braze up the threaded section in the wheel, assuming its cast, and then bore to get back to round, and put the screws in three virgin places, and clean up the key to at least a tight push fit, when it goes in the wheel and axle together, even if it means a larger key. That wheel is essentially acting as a flywheel, and driving the axle, so the wheel is going to act and react to the engine directly, leaving all the mass and inertia of the axle to follow, so the key, pun intended, to keeping the two solid, is to work from the wheel to the axle, as far as stresses go, rather than the conventional axle to wheel, which assumes the axle drives the wheel. I'd also locktite the wheel and axle joint when everything is fitted up for the final assembly, if it can't start working loose, it won't get looser with time. The idea of adding live bearings is a good one, if you're ready to go all the way with a whole new axle, and then it can be a bit oversized, and allow a better clean up of the hub, and a good chance of finding the opposite wheel starting to work loose, and get it solid and well keyed before any damage is done. This looks a lot like farm equipment repair, if you don't mind my saying so, similar problems, lots of torque, lots of load, and stop and go making inertia a serious factor. I'd sure like to lay my own hands on that bit of work, not much rail work unless one is close and part of a club over here. Something about steam engines, tied to flanged flywheels, running on tracks, with boilers attached to the engines, in tandem, and frames bolted on to the engines and boilers, and pulling boxes for stuff or people, from the bolted on frames, but brought down to the essence, two tandem steam engines with driving and rolling wheels attached, and a boiler to provide the steam - the most basic engine/drive system starting the steam driving idea from the beginning of the steam age. It feels subtly primitive and original, and connects with the guys who had to figure all this out from scratch, just using their noggins, and learning from what breaks. :lol: I've always felt steam engine enthusiasts and motorcyle drivers are of the same breed, just wanting to put wheels on an engine, and drive the engine around, with the necessary equipment attached, and no more. Some jobs get you paid, other jobs you'd pay just for the privilege of doing it, at least I find that happens, all though even the second kind, the owner wants to pay. :beer: cheers, I hope you enjoy the repair as much as we enjoy watching it unfold. :poke: mad jack |
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