Author Topic: Scott flame licker build  (Read 147356 times)

Offline arnoldb

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #250 on: March 26, 2011, 10:56:35 AM »
Well done John  :clap: - congratulations !

Kind regards, Arnold

Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #251 on: March 26, 2011, 12:17:34 PM »
Hi John, I think that cheer Nick heard came from North Carolina.  It sounds good, and I'm sure you will get the little things worked out and have a genny on there soon enough to show us.  Congratulations on a fine looking and sounding engine.  Very nicely done, and very well documented. :nrocks: :beer: :bow: Cheers, Jack

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #252 on: March 26, 2011, 01:49:16 PM »
Big, happy smile time!  :ddb: :ddb:

Well done John!  :clap: :clap: :thumbup:

David D
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Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #253 on: March 26, 2011, 01:56:25 PM »
Many thanks indeed gents for the good comments.

It has taken me a bit longer than I thought it would, but that is life.

I will take a pic of the modded block, then I will be shutting this post down for a bit, while I get it all put together correctly and blinged up. Hopefully by the time that is done, I will be able to control the speed.


John
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Offline Dean W

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #254 on: March 26, 2011, 06:59:42 PM »
I really like the sound and the interesting motion of the intake mechanism.  Pretty exciting to see it run!
Thanks for the vid, John.
Dean W.

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Offline shoey51

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #255 on: March 26, 2011, 07:18:01 PM »
that runs a treat well done :thumbup:

Graham

Offline John Hill

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #256 on: March 26, 2011, 08:05:26 PM »
Great work John! :bow:
From the den of The Artful Bodger

Offline Divided he ad

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #257 on: March 26, 2011, 08:39:38 PM »
It'll do  :thumbup:     



Sounds like it's got plenty of umph  :headbang:   





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Offline raynerd

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #258 on: March 27, 2011, 03:24:59 AM »
Nice one John - this engine looks great.

Chris

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #259 on: March 27, 2011, 01:32:08 PM »
Thanks for all the praise lads.

I would just like to say, all the prep work I had done beforehand really helped, things like getting the cylinder, piston and bore spot on square and lapped in.

Once I had the block reshaped, there was absolutely no mucking about at all, I put the flame to the hole, and away it went, not one drop of lube required anywhere.

But anyway, just a few pics to show what I had to do to the block to get the flame to the hole. The flame sits at an angle of 45 degs, so I reshaped it so the flame had a nice long runup.


Just as a reminder, this is what the block looked like when made from the plans, the top angle wasn't long enough to get the flame to the hole, it was blocking it's access.




About 0.050" (1.25mm) was removed from the bottom of the block to allow it to drop a little lower, as it was nearly touching the two lower nuts when at full drop. The top 45 deg edge was machined to be a lot longer.




Just another view.




Now I can take my time getting everything 'just so'.


Bogs
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Offline NickG

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #260 on: March 27, 2011, 04:28:44 PM »
Well done John, it's spot on.  :thumbup:

I'll still be watching for the bling as this is going to be some engine.  :bow:

Nick

Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline SPiN Racing

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #261 on: March 27, 2011, 11:43:20 PM »
Very Nicely done!
That bad boy sounds really nice. Good thump to it.
Seeing the motion of the block moving up and down, It doesnt appear to get up to the studs, and appears to move really nicely!

Really nice work there, once again. Top notch as always.

Scott
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Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #262 on: March 28, 2011, 10:10:37 AM »
Hi John, that valve looks great, it ought to do the job right well, and I'm looking forward to the video.   :beer:  cheers, Jack

Offline NickG

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #263 on: March 28, 2011, 11:32:22 AM »
Jack, think you've missed a few posts there, the video is on the previous page!  :thumbup:
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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #264 on: March 28, 2011, 03:17:58 PM »
Nicely done John  :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

She sounds great  :thumbup:

Rob 

Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #265 on: March 29, 2011, 11:47:29 AM »
Jack, think you've missed a few posts there, the video is on the previous page!  :thumbup:
Nah!  I just want to see it run with the valve altered and see it improved :lol:, you know, you make a change, ya got to document it and show the improvement :poke:  :beer: cheers, Jack

lordedmond

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #266 on: March 29, 2011, 12:12:44 PM »
Scott,

All the clearances have now been sorted, the block will have to wear down to a point where the engine will not continue to run before anything fouls again.

This is a very quickie post as I am having site access problems.

Just one pic at this time.

As I said, I needed to check out the geometry of the plans. I just used basic pythagoras for working it out, not wanting to bring operating arcs into the equation, but the information that it gave me showed that I have more than enough movement for the block to work correctly.

I also reshaped the block to what I thought it needed, but I will have to show you that next time, as I haven't taken any pics of it yet.




This is the reason for no piccies. I wanted to try it out first, just to see if I had my calculations right.



I seem to be gasping for air. In fact I am just recovering from a chest infection and a cold, hence I haven't been in the shop for a while. But within 10 minutes of getting in there this morning, the engine was basically up and running, not too well, but plenty good enough for me to see that it has potential. The sound has changed from a 'quack' to an ic engine exhaust sound, and unlike the other flame licker I built, this one has useable POWER  :clap: :clap: :clap:, so maybe a little generator might find it's way onto the scene.


Bogs


Try hear

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #267 on: March 29, 2011, 12:39:11 PM »
Jack,

The video was with the modified block.

I couldn't get the engine to give a sustained run with the block as made from the plan.


John
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Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #268 on: April 01, 2011, 12:06:40 PM »
My fault, John, I wasn't paying proper attention, but I definitely like it and think you will get it all spiffed up and working driving something, and fit out as you want rather soon, a very entertaining and informative build, and the water cooling is very intriguing as well, quite a nice piece of engine in my opinion. :beer:  Cheers, Jack

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #269 on: April 01, 2011, 12:25:13 PM »
Jack,

I am actually having to do a little bit of private engineering for the next week or so, but I will be doing the finishing off a few things in slack time.

I always get my engines running before polishing up and painting, saves spoiling the finish trying to get them to run.


There are in fact a lot of parts that still need to be made, the wooden bearers, which might not sound much, but I am looking to get a special finish put on them which will take a while, plus I have also decided to make a new rechargeable gas tank of the correct size rather than cobbling one up to fit. That will take a while as it requires to be pressure tested to 360psi. I need to find someone locally who can test to that high, as my steam test gauges won't reach that high.

So you have only really seen the basic engine being made, not the far from finished article.


John
If you don't try it, you will never know if you can do it.

Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #270 on: April 13, 2011, 03:54:35 PM »
Having got most of the flywheel tidied up, just requiring a few more hours to finish it off, I decided I need to make the combined power takeoff pulley and flywheel/crankshaft clamp. For models such as this, which don't have too much power, I prefer not to drill or make special fittings for the flywheel, that way, they always run nice and true. The crankdisk is first locked on, then using spacers and other components right the way along to the other end of the crankshaft, the whole lot can be tightened up together, as long as the flywheel turns in the correct direction for tightening up the screw/nut.

For many years now, I have been picking up very old sash weights from the scrap yard for pennies each (on average 30 pence, about 50 cents US). These give me a great source of very fine grained cast iron up to 1 3/8" diameter.
I stuck the weight onto my power hacksaw and soon had a 2" long lump for my use.




Unfortunately, with these cheap materials, you have to put a bit of work into it to get the good stuff out. In this case, the hard casting skin, which if attacked with a normal pointed carbide tip or HSS they would be flattened or broken in seconds.
I use the wide angle part of the tips in a special facing roughing tool holder.




The same goes for the main outer skin, another type of roughing cutter removes it very easily.




Very quickly, I was the proud owner of a piece of over 100 year old, super fine grained cast iron bar.

So a C-o-C was drawn up to give me a working drawing of what I wanted.




You may have noticed that I am working with my lathe in 'Myford' mode, I will be swapping this chuck over onto the mill RT once the pulley has been roughed out.

The outer face was relieved a little for when I get it onto the mill in the final stages for cutting the half round drive belt slot.
Both sides now needed a 7mm deep recess cutting into them. So a quickie grind up on the offhand had a rough trepanning tool that will do the job. It left a few chatter marks on the bottom face, but I was not worried about those, they can easily be cleaned up later.




This is where it will be mounted when finished, compressing everything up nice and tight into one long unit.
Notice how nice the finish comes out on this material, no polishing was done at all, just basic deburring.




Basic lathework done, time to get onto the RT to have a bit more machined off it.




After some very rough calculations, and by use of the Divisionmaster, I had all the holes in the right places.




Then it was just a matter of joining up the holes using the X & Y axis of the mill and the RT in manual mode.

I also put a few more slots in as well, as shown on the next pic.




This is an awful pic, it looks like the spokes are all twisted and the wrong shape, but in fact, I hadn't deburred it before taking the shot, and what you are seeing are mainly shadows from the heavy burrs being thrown up by the flash on the camera.

Once deburred and cleaned up with a bit of filework, it will look spot on.



This will now be put to one side, until the flywheel has been finished off, and when I have the RT set up to vertical for another job I am doing, then the half round slot can be finished off.



Bogs
If you don't try it, you will never know if you can do it.

Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Offline saw

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #271 on: April 13, 2011, 04:06:45 PM »
Bogs, this is art, it should be om an museum  :clap: :clap: :clap:
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Offline spuddevans

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #272 on: April 13, 2011, 04:09:04 PM »
This is coming along very nicely. As usual, your write-ups are very educational, and even though I have no present plans to build a flame licker type engine, I am still learning a lot from your build log.

For instance,
I use the wide angle part of the tips in a special facing roughing tool holder.



Now there's a useful tool, thank you for showing that :thumbup:. I have a number of ccmt inserts that have the pointed tips dulled or chipped, but I hadnt had the heart to chuck them out yet. Now I am glad I kept them. I will have to look into getting or making a holder like those you've shown so I can make use of the shorter cutting tips.



Tim
Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe  -  MI0TME

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #273 on: April 13, 2011, 04:23:45 PM »
Tim,

I think Chronos sell those alternative holders. I got mine from there as a full set, expensive, but worth their weight in gold.

I was talking thru Skype to a member from Africa last week about how you can use the wider part of these tips, and he was dumbfounded, he had just thrown away all his sharp end blunted tips, not realising the other two points can be used as well.

If you go to this site fairly quickly, before anything else is posted, the first article shows what are available for use with these tips.

http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/

SCKCR is the facing version and SCBCR is the outside roughing tool.


John

« Last Edit: April 13, 2011, 06:11:34 PM by Bogstandard »
If you don't try it, you will never know if you can do it.

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Offline DaveH

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #274 on: April 13, 2011, 05:00:11 PM »

Dumbfounded - more like devastated  :(

I think I have thrown at least 100 away. Thats 200 cutting edges. :jaw: :doh:

Daveh

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