Potty Over Crank Wall Engine

[Rob.Wilson]

  very nicely done Stew ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 



Rob

[sbwhart]

Thanks for your support Guys, and thanks Stuart and Marv for your ball drilling suggestions they will both work  , as I'm using phosphor bronze balls the likely hood of damaging them in the chuck is very high I opted for the method suggested by Marv.

Had a rummage through my bits and pieces box and came up with this I've used this for all sorts of odd fixtures, and it will be just the ticket for the ball job.



So gripped it in the vice and fly cut the face up nice and flat, then drilled a bit of ally bar for a top clamp, fixed it to the base, locked the x and y axis of the mill. And drilled a 3 mm hole in the clamp into the base.



Then with a big centre drill drilled a big cone into the base for the ball to sit in.



Clamp the ball in the fixture centre drill followed by an M2 tapping drill and tap, I used the chuck to guide the tap to keep it square.



Cleaned things up and fixed the pins and balls with a tiny bit of supper glue.

Looking good



Scale looks about right 



Pleased how that turned out.
 



I was kind of working from drawings and from gut feel for the job, I'll bring the drawings into line with what I ended up with and post them her along with the other governor designs I came up with some of you guys may be able to put them to use.

Stew

[saw]

 

[klank]

Stew,
I was waiting for this latest chapter before posting.
Thanks for such a clear write up of the governor - I have one to do for the Side Rod Engine - but the plans for it are a bit difficult to follow.
Seeing you do it gives me the impetus to have a shot now.
As regards drilling the balls - I was told of a set up for this, where a scrap piece of steel or brass rod of greater diameter than the ball(s) is set up in the lathe chuck and then drilled from the tailstock to a hole diameter and depth of slightly less than the ball.
The ball is pushed into the "cup" recess and can then be drilled/tapped from the tailstock without moving it.

What a lovely engine you are making.

Best wishes

Peter

[NickG]

Stew, looks great - scale looks spot on!

[Bogstandard]

For anyone with a 5c or er collet chuck that fits the lathe nose, drilling balls, or as I do softened ball bearings, is a very easy job.

Just pop them into the collet, tighten up, and drill and tap away at leisure.


Bogs

[cfellows]

Nice work on the governor.  I like the process for making the curved bits.

Chuck

[sbwhart]

For anyone with a 5c or er collet chuck that fits the lathe nose, drilling balls, or as I do softened ball bearings, is a very easy job.

Just pop them into the collet, tighten up, and drill and tap away at leisure.

Bogs

 

Never tought of a collet.

Stew

[AdeV]

Stew, that's one gorgeous engine - I love the noise it makes on tickover. I agree you should mount it vertically like the original. It will look fabulous 

[arnoldb]

Lovely work on the governor Stew  - I can see why you're smiling!

Kind regards, Arnold

[NickG]

I was going to say use a collet - but knew Stew would already know that  !

[sbwhart]

Thanks Chaps

Bin sitting twidling the governor when I realised that if I mount it horizontal I'll need to spring load it, to do the job that gravity does when its verticle, had a rummage through my spring box and came up with a spring from a ball point pen, may be a bit strong, but still works with it, I'll try and pick up a lighter spring next Saturday at the Harogate show.

Thanks again

Stew

[cfellows]

Nice work on the governor, Stew.  Really an interesting process you used.

Chuck

[Rob.Wilson]

Now that looks just right Stew 

I bet the bracket will be a work of art to 


Rob

[sbwhart]

Cheers Chuck/Rob

The butterfly valve is based on a tubal Cain design in his book "Building the Beam Engine Mary" that I've adapted and metricated for this engine.

 First part the main body just a simple turning job.



Mount it in the mill vice find its centre in the X and Y and mill a 10mm dia flat with a 2mm hole 4mm deep in the middle.



Turn up a little nugget of brass with a 2mm nipple to locate in the body.



Silver solder the two together mount back in the vice with the nugget horizontal, and skim it off flat the drill 3mm through into the hole and a little way through the other side, and drill and tap 1/4"*40 ME.





Mount the other way round sitting on a parallel and in the vice gripping on the flat face, find the centre of the hole using the coaxial indicator, and drill the four bolting down holes using the DRO, make sure you get them oriented the correct way.



The boss floated off line when I soldered it, but I think it gives it that just cast look, what do you say ROB. 





The butterfly sits at a 30 angle across the air way which means its has an oval shape, this is the way Tubal Cain made the butterfly which I think is real neat. Mill a 30 deg angle across a bit of brass bar.



Soft solder the brass shim that will form the butterfly on the end.



Turn the bar down to 6mm.



Heat the bar up again so that the butterfly drops off, clean it up and you've got an oval.



Now wasn't that neat 

Stew

[DaveH]

Stew,

Neat!! - bloody clever


DaveH

[saw]

Nice 

[klank]

Very very good to see - thanks for showing.

Peter

[Stilldrillin]

Yes, Stew!

That was neat! 

David D

[CallMeAl]

Interesting solution to a tricky problem.  I continue to impressed with the tricks people come with to solve difficult problems.  Great work on this engine and this lesson in oblique thinking.

Al

[dsquire]

Stew

Nice way to do that last bit. This whole project is coming out very nice. Will be watching for the final outcome. 

Cheers 

Don

[sbwhart]

Cheers Guys

I'm following Tubal Cain's (Tom Wiltshaw) methods her he certainly had some neat tricks 

The valve shaft is a bit of 3mm stainless, put a 0.5mm slot down the end with a slitting saw.



Then cross drill 0.8mm I.m not sure if this is required.



So you've got this.



Now Tubal called for the stem to be brass and to soft solder the butterfly to it whilst assembled to the body, but he was writing before cyinoacalate came along and as i won't be steaming the engine that's what I'm going to use.

So this is the assembly kit.



It was my intentions to cross drill the butterfly using the little drill but when I came to it I couldn't get in, I think the idea is to give another route for the solder/supper glue, but it seems to have fixed well enough without the cross drill. You have to probe about a bit to get the butterfly sitting square then apply a drop of glue on the end of the stick, don't over do it as you'll stick the lot together 

Her we are with it in the open position.



And closed



I then turned up the gland nut, assembled it with a few turns of graphite yarn to seal thing up.

The finished Job



Next up the mounting frame.

Marked it out on a bit of steel plate.



I'll cut it out tomorrow.

Stew

[klank]

Its making sense now Stew - thankyou for the pics.

Peter

[saw]

Wow, this is exstrimly nice work, and so small 
Very nice work, good workmanchip 

[arnoldb]

Good going Stew  - That's a neat way of making the valve!

Kind regards, Arnold