Potty Over Crank Wall Engine

[Bogstandard]

If you wanted material Stew, you should have given me a call, if it is here, you can have it.

That pulley is looking nice. I too am putting a lot more faith in retaining compounds, as long as there is no heat about the area.


John

[sbwhart]

John the material I'm waiting for is 3mm * 30mm * 1000mm mild steel, if I'm let down I'll come round and see if you can help.

Thanks

Kenneth

Those are good pointers for use of adhesive:- I didn't use cutting oil so I new all the bits were nice and clean, just a bit of cutting dust wiped off with a clean rag, Adhesive can have a bit of a bad press but I think its all a matter of understanding the right conditions and aplications to get the best out of it. I've had that little bottle for over three years now and used it quite a lot I'm begining to think its a endless supply, I certainly got my moneys worth out of it.

Thanks for your interest.

Stew

[NickG]

Looking great that Stew. I like the pulley. I think I may try making a flywheel with that method. Is the pulley going to drive anything? I recon it'd have to be a heck of a load to break the bonds so very
Much doubt it'd happen. If you had to pin it, you probably wouldn't see the pins anyway unless you made them from a different material as a feature!

[sbwhart]

Thanks Nick

I had though of the posibilites of different material using this method, it would result in an interesting fly wheel.

This little experiment was a limited sucess. Mounted this wheel up in the lathe this moring I had thought of rigging something up that would drive it on the spokes to trim the hub up, taking the load off the bond, but in the end thought no, may as well give it a good test, cleaned the hubs up no problem the adhesive bond held, with just taking light cuts, drilled and reamed out the bore this went fine, ho ho I thought wer're onto a winner, but when I tried the pully on the crank and gave it a spin it was running out, on closer inspection the bond had failed, the failure was axially not radialy, when I drilled out and reamed, I had the wheel chucked so that axiall loading wasn,t being supported by the step I had turned in the rim, allowing the hib and spokes to move back slightly.




This is what it looks like on a lose assembly.





Not to bad

But as one of the critical features of any wheel on a small engine is that it be woble free.
So to fix it I turned up a mandrel, pushed the hub back so that the area of bond was exposed reaplied more loctite, got it back into position and nudged the rim back concentric with a crude nugger, just a bit of brass bar in the tool post, worked a treat wheel is running dead true again, I'll give it plenty of time to cure before having a think about pinning it.



On the face of it I would think that this is a feasable method for fabricating a fly wheel, but you have to take care on any post fixing machining.

Stew

 

[saw]

Looking very good. 

[Stilldrillin]

That's a crackin' way to fabricate a flywheel Stew!   

David D

[sbwhart]

Cheers Saw/Dave

I'm still not sure about that pulley though, I've a mind to pull it apart and start again, salvaging what parts I can.

In the mean time made a start on the fly wheel, I'm using a 7" dia cast iron fly bought from RDG. Gave it a good going over with files cleaning off all the lumps and bumps and getting to grips to its shape.



Set it up in my big four jaw chuck and cleaned the face off and the inside of the rim and part of the OD, found that its got some blow holes in it that wont clean up, looks like I'll have to fill them with something have you guys got any suggestion, at Crewe Loco works they used a concoction they called buggerum, made up from putty red lead and iron filing, but I thought of body filler.



Cast iron is real filthy stuff to work with, looks like I can join John's black hand gang.   




Stew

[madjackghengis]

Hi Stew, it's looking very good so far, I'm really interested in seeing her running   I think I'd use some JB weld and maybe some of the casting dust if necessary, it's epoxy with iron in it already, and it holds well, assuming it's available that side of the pond.  It even looks okay on cast iron if it's not painted or covered, particularly if you've got some iron dust from turning.   cheers, Jack

[John Hill]

Set it up in my big four jaw chuck and cleaned the face off and the inside of the rim and part of the OD, found that its got some blow holes in it that wont clean up, looks like I'll have to fill them with something have you guys got any suggestion, at Crewe Loco works they used a concoction they called buggerum, made up from putty red lead and iron filing, but I thought of body filler.

Google "Beaumont's Egg" or sweep up around your grinder and mix with cement.

[Bogstandard]

I think I have some JB weld knocking around here Stuart, from when I did the Bantam engine. Very good stuff.


John

[lordedmond]

Stew

they used the same stuff at the Iron works sand casting dept , not sure of the name used but then they left the casting to age in the wind and rain , it was then buried in the ground and forgot about ( I am talking about sand cast water pipes 36 inches did and a 4 inch wall thickness ) never did see a sand cast pipe tested

build looking good and as usual well documented


Stuart

[sbwhart]

Thanks for your suggestion guys, just faced the other side of the casting up and its perfect, I guess the bad side was on top so that's where all the **** collected. I think it will fill in OK and I'm going to paint it so its not a desaster.

I'll nip round some time this week John for a natter and to scrounge some of that JB weld if that OK, I'll bring that small pully round as well still not sure what to do with it  .


Cheers

Stew

[Bogstandard]

Give a call first Stew, I do have a couple of meds this week, one this afternoon with Mal.

I need to talk with you about some matters anyway.


John

[sbwhart]

Will do John

I was going to finish off the fly wheel using a face plate, but have you ever noticed with them that what ever the job the holes just not in the right position, so decided to use the four jaw gripping on the cleaned up inside rim, there was only a small area to grip on but I decided there would be enough particularly if I supported it with the running centre when doing the OD.

Clocked the turned register up true, and centre drilled.



Then turned up the OD, face the inside rim and the hub.



Then open out the centre with an 8mm drill followed by a 12mm, and bored it out with a 10 deg taper so the big dia was 14mm ish.



Keeping the compound at the same setting turned up the tapered collet, split the collet with a saw, this is how the collet fits in the wheel, the locking bolt squeezes the collet onto the shaft.



Another how it looks shot.



I think the crank is a touch too long, but I can easily put that right as its still got its centers in.

Just in time delivery as I finished the fly wheel the postie called with the material for the return connecting rods

Stew

[Dean W]

It sure is coming out a beauty, Stew.  Going to be a great looking engine.

[saw]

Looking very good 

[NickG]

Impressive stuff Stew  - really getting a feel for the size of it now!   

Nick

[cfellows]

Lot of nice work going into this engine, Stew.  I'm just following along and watching.

Chuck

[sbwhart]

Thanks for your support and kind comments chaps.

Things slowed down a bit over the last week, but did get a bit more done.

What I call the return con rod, this is made from some 3mm thick * 30mm wide mild steel plate, first off drill and dowel the holes so that I can chew them out all together.



Then drill and with the boring head cut out the corners



Then with a slot drill join them up (sorry no pic)

Then onto the RT and radius the end just set this up with MK1 eye ball



Then mill the slide bar to size, giving a little extra support with a toolmaker clamp



Then counter sink the holes, and that them done



Turn and tap the spacers M3, I'll bling them up later.

This is how they assemble up.



And a few hows it looking shots.

[Bogstandard]

That is starting to look very business like Stew.

If it runs as well as it looks, you are onto a winner.


John

[raynerd]

It is looking great Stew!

Chris

[saw]

Very nice good work 

[spuddevans]

Not long to go now, looking really good  

Tim

[sbwhart]

Thanks Chaps, must admit I'm getting quite excited at the prospect of trying to get it to run.

Bit more progress this time with the base:- cut the jig plate to size and squared up the edges.

Then drilled the fixing holes and dowel holes for the bearing housings, and clearance for the crank throw



Assembled the bits to the base this gave me the first chance to see if it turned over OK so put a couple of nuts on the crank and wound it over with a spammer,  (if only) and it turned over fine.



Next up I need to fit the bearing strips for the slide bars.

I guess another couple of weeks and we will see if it will run.

Stew

[NickG]

It's looking brilliant that Stew. It's going to develop quite a lot of power!