Cross slide tool/mounting plate for the Boxford

[NickG]

Wow, those are somewhat of a bargain!

[bigmini]

Anyone done something like this for a Chinese 7x?

Chuck in E. TN

I made this for my 8x16 (Titan T210) which is Chinese and has a similar compound to a 7" mini lathe. The original compound slide mounting is designed to take a milling adaptor, but the cross slide runs out of travel. I built this to fix the problem but I haven't really tried it out yet. I have some concerns about rigidity. The plate is cold rolled 1020G and is 15mm thick by 75mm wide.




The ugly looking ground out bit is clearance for the oil ports and the mounting for the cross slide nut. I needed this so the plate would sit flat on my lathe.

The milling adaptor normally bolts on where those foreground holes are in the second picture. Doing it as shown,  the full cross slide travel is available.

So far no modification has been made to the lathe itself, but if I get problems with rigidity I might drill and tap some holes at the far end of the cross slide to hold it down better. My concern is that those hole swill fill up with swarf when not in use. Also, you can see in the second photo how thin the cross slide actually is.

It wouldn't be hard to repurpose this to mount anything you want. It's just a matter of drilling the holes.

[andyf]

So far no modification has been made to the lathe itself, but if I get problems with rigidity I might drill and tap some holes at the far end of the cross slide to hold it down better. My concern is that those hole swill fill up with swarf when not in use. Also, you can see in the second photo how thin the cross slide actually is.

[/quote]

Hi Bigmini,

If you put the "far end" bolts back in their holes after removing the plate, they'll keep the swarf out, and you won't lose 'em.

Andy.

[fluxcored]

Hi Chris,

Does that plate sit flush on top of your cross slide and is it fastened to the cross slide bmo the spigot only?

Regards.

[raynerd]

Yes, it sits flush to the cross slide. When the two large brub screws are tightened, it forces in 2 angled pieces into the taper of the spigot. That holds the table in place and also forces it down flush onto the cross slide. This is exactly how the entire compound slide is fastened to the cross slide. Hope that helps.

Chris

[fluxcored]

Thx, for clearing that up.

'nother question if you do'nt mind - the threading stop hole (the hole at the front of the cross slide) is it the same size + same thread as the travelling steady holes.

Sorry for badgering you, but your cross slide looks very similar to mine.

Regards.

[jamoni]

Looks great!  I made a similar plate for the top of my poor man's milling machine, and it works great.  I'd suggest putting some bolts in the holes that aren't being used for clamping.  Swarf loves those holes.  If they do get swarfed up, I just use a drywall screw to pull the stuff out.

[raynerd]

Thx, for clearing that up.

'nother question if you do'nt mind - the threading stop hole (the hole at the front of the cross slide) is it the same size + same thread as the travelling steady holes.

Sorry for badgering you, but your cross slide looks very similar to mine.

Regards.

No need to appologise, it is nice your reading the thread! However, you have now flipped it and your teaching me - what exactly is the whole for at the front side of the cross slide!! I presume your talking about the, to me, seemingly random empty threaded hole just below the front edge of my new surface plate on the top slide?

[billmac]

My Myford ML7 has a slotted cross slide, but sometimes you need something a bit bigger - or maybe a lot bigger. See below for a plate that I made specifically for a between centres boring job, where two holes need to be accurately to size and exactly parallel - the cast iron sections are for a jumbo sized Bonelle cutter grinder. I think that this might qualify for the 'serious over-use of a ML7' award, but it coped quite well. I had to take it fairly slow to mimise chatter given the length of the boring bar.





The fag papers are there because the 20 mm steel plate needed more taking off to get it flat than I had planned so these just shim the work up to get the centre height correct. I made full length tee nuts with three screws each so as to avoid over-stressing the Myford cross slide and tee slots - they are a bit delicate.



I made a double eccentric centre for fine adjustment when working with a between centres boring bar, but couldn't use it for this job, not enough space. Photo available if anyone is interested.

[fluxcored]

No need to appologise, it is nice your reading the thread! However, you have now flipped it and your teaching me - what exactly is the whole for at the front side of the cross slide!! I presume your talking about the, to me, seemingly random empty threaded hole just below the front edge of my new surface plate on the top slide?

LOL - I'm spending too much time on the Interweb.

AFAIK - http://vts.bc.ca/metalshop/tstop/tstop.htm - stupid me, there's the size + thread of the bolt right there.

Very simple device really - http://books.google.co.za/books?id=o9QDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA125&lpg=PA125&dq=threading+stop+lathe+attachment&source=bl&ots=tG5JCzJ6ze&sig=M7mrVTBZ3iuBRWnt48zItRsXG-A&hl=en&ei=zl5jTcTZDY-GvAO45rDTBQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CDcQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=threading%20stop%20lathe%20attachment&f=false

I'm scheming that I can use that hole + the travelling steady's holes to fab a poor man's cross slide DRO.

Guys, thanks for posting your setups. I find it very educational.

[raynerd]

 

I didn`t know that and have always wondered what exactly it was for - thank you !!!   

Please will you post how you use this if you do manage to use it for the dro scale attachement, believe it or not I considered this as well but didn`t realise it had a function!

Chris

[fluxcored]

Will do.

Best regards.