Boring Bar Setting Device - for between centres

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madjackghengis:
Hi Chris, from the looks of it, you are working on a South Bend or something very close to it. I had a similar choice with my ten inch Logan, when I started getting my shop together and was using a small drill press for a mill, and my cross slide equally devoid of any means of clamping to it. I bought a casting from Metal Lathe Accessories, a casting for an "Atlas style cross slide" which has T slots and holes for mounting, and was about to machine the casting entirely on my lathe, clamping with C clamps to the tool post and to a couple angle plates I machined on my face plate to get square. I no longer use the original cross slide at all, as the atlas style is far more useful and convenient, and I've put an atlas top slide on it as well, as I like it better than the original set up. At worst, you can put oak blocks across the "wings" of your carriage, and if you're lucky there are some holes in those wings you can bolt to, and basically wedge everything into place that way, but that definitely is the most accurate way to get a straight bore that is as close to round as can be got, with a bar between centers. I would do almost anything to avoid drilling holes in way surfaces, they tend to gather swarf, and will throw off the accuracy at the worst of times. An old cast iron weight plate from a weight machine is a good blank for a cross slide, and can fairly easily be machined on the lathe its self. I used a five inch face plate, two pieces of inch and a half by 1/8th angle iron to hold a quarter inch cutter with a carbide brazed tip, with the angle iron drilled to fit on the face plate, and drilled to clamp together and hold the cutter bit as a fly cutter. I machined two different cross slides and a three by three by eight box box type angle block, all using the original cross slide, cobled together with hold downs and clamps, I just had to take it slow, and measure very carefully. I think you've got more flat cross slide under your top slide than I have, so you should have enough at least to start with. Try it out with a piece of scrap, and if it has problems, the scrap will guide you to a stout set up, and you'll get your accurate bore. :bugeye: mad jack

raynerd:
Thanks Madjack for the reply. I`m reluctant to machine a cross slide. I didn`t really fancy machining a new top slide, it seems a big expense that I can`t really afford and I`m worried I`d muck it up. To buy one ready made for my Boxford is £140 which I definately can`t afford at present.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Boxford_Replacement_Parts.html

The only other option is to use the tapped holes that are already in the top slide. If you looks within the red lines, in the centre there is a hole at the front and then also another tapped hole at the back of the toolpost. I don`t know what they were used for, they were there when I purchased the lathe. Would these two holes be enough to fasten my wooden support down? Or even a metal support like I suggested - I doubt it.
Madjack, I do understand what you mean about it not being a good idea to drill and tap any part of my saddle. I just thought it was a good way of mounting a mounting plate on should I need it.

I`ll have to take a look at my lathe to understand what you mean by "At worst, you can put oak blocks across the "wings" of your carriage, and if you're lucky there are some holes in those wings you can bolt to, and basically wedge everything into place that way,"" That might by the way forward for now.... a T-slotted cross slide will definately have to wait a while due to costs...but I want to bore asap so I`ll have the keep thinking and looking. Thanks again. Anyone else any thoughts?

Chris

raynerd:
Just been on the Boxford user groups and some interesting info on there. Apparently Boxford make a boring table:

The bottom is the same round dove tailed attachment that the compound slide uses:

If I could some how put this spigot on the bottom of a plate, I could then swap it for my compound slide when needed and use when needed , obviously the plate could be tapped or/and T-slotted.

So this will be my setup, but on the plate obviously.

Any thoughts or ideas on this one?

ieezitin:
Craynerd

I had your particular problem for a long time of not having a T-Slot assembly, and my milling capabilities are limited too so I just one day took the time to manufacture a base plate that sits on the cross slide and I found a decent cast iron angle plate at a auction. I have not regretted it either, I have use it multiple times and I gained my time investment back in a flash.
I think the road you are travelling is the correct one, purpose tooling cost money but time is what your flush with so spend that, like i previously said this would be a mod that will pay dividends.

Nice job on the indicator bracket. I am finding this thread very interesting.

Thanks. Anthony.

Rob.Wilson:
Hi Chris

Thats the way to go :thumbup: ,,,,,,, you could just turn up a tapered spigot and screw it to your plate :dremel:

Looks like i will have to make one of those boring tables for my boxford :doh:

Rob

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