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| Boring Bar Setting Device - for between centres |
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| raynerd:
I posted after Christmas about how to go about boring for my Webster engine in a which a few of you suggested boring between centres. http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4093.0 Although I was very near to making a standard boring bar and having a go with that, I decided that I would like to attempt to between centres as it is something I`ve not done before. Rob Wilson posted regarding making a device to measure the distance or reach of the boring bar which in my opinion was an excellent method to accurately measure this. He kindly helped me with plans for this device so I went ahead and built one... cheers Rob :beer: A piece of scrap ally I rescued months ago! The main 2 pieces cut to shape with the guide rods. I deviated from the plans here which stated to bore 1/4" and loctite the guide rods into the top T shaped piece. I didn`t fancy that, so I decided to only drill 2/3 of the way through the top piece and thread the top of the guide and screw it in position. Will probably use some thread lock on final assembly. I`m pleased with this, it looks tidy (not drilled through) and certainly solid. It also can be disassembled should it need to be. This sort of shows how it will work. The two V slots will clamp down onto the boring bar with them bolted together using the guide bars. I now need to make a plate on the top which will hold a DTI and a plate on the bottom which will hold the adjusting screw. I finally completed the boring bar setting device after many more hours than expected. Here are all the parts required. I have used stock M3 screws for the supporting brackets and a stock M4 screw for the grub screw to hold the dial in place. The plans also required that a flat button is made for the DTI in use so that you can measure the maximum projection of the boring bar Initial mock setup on a piece of ally bar. I`ll be using a steel bar for the boring bar when I get around to cutting it. It works by turning the screw at the bottom which will push the tool steel through the boring bar and the DTI will measure the distance and therefore the bore radius. And a final assembly I guess the next step is using it but I need to figure out how to mount my work to the saddle. |
| Trion:
Looking good! Another one I need to make some day :dremel: |
| Rob.Wilson:
Hi Chris Great job :thumbup: :clap: :clap: :D Just a couple of things to watch out for when using the tool ,,, are when you position the DTI plunger over the cutter , lightly clamp the setting tool to the boring bar then rotate the setting tool to the position were you get the greatest reading on the DTI then zero the dial and lock the tool in position . Secondly dont be tempted to remove the boring bar from the lathe to slide of the setting tool off the boring bar , because when you put the boring bar back you may not apply the same tail stock pressure ,,, the pressure from the tail stock dose bend smaller dia boring bars a few thou ,, witch dose increase the radius of the cutter . i normally slide mine over the tail stock barrel to save unscrewing the setting tool completely . Rob |
| raynerd:
Cheers Rob for the advice. I`m just totally stuck now how to mount my work onto the saddle without having any T-slots. I know JasonB on the other thread showed how he bolted his wooden block down onto the cross slide. The only thing I can think of is if I remove the cross slide and drill and tap it at the 4 corners. I could then make an aluminium plate with some T slots in it or even just with some thread holes for fixing points for now (I`ve not got a T-slot cutter - I could slot it later). I could then mount the plate onto the saddle when needed. For this job I don`t need T slots but for it would be useful in future. I don`t know if this would work and would 4 threaded holes bolt the plate down securely enough? |
| raynerd:
I know you all know what a saddle looks like but this is my idea. If I take off the compound slide and then fit a plate along the cross slide as shown by my "painted" image! |
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