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| building a new flame sucker |
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| madjackghengis:
Hi guys, and thanks, as to using the pineapple for a flame source, I think I'll reserve that option for the slim possibility I don't get it to run, and then it will be one big flame. On the other hand, it might need a big flame :lol: Yesterday, I had to go into the woods to get some firewood and I hit the wetlands part, being dry this time of year, and planned on just picking up a hundred pounds or so of down dead wood. I call this part of the property, "Medusa's Vineyard", mainly because it has about a couple dozen trees and a hundred miles of vines in about two acres. Those lopping shears are four inch, and they only cut the small vines, I had to use the chain saw for the vines more than my wrist size. I got my wood, spent a couple hours killing vines, and looking at the ones which swoop up a hundred feet and are too big to cut without the chainsaw. Ice storm coming so wood is good. having removed the valve actuating arm to mill out the excess, and to figure out spring mounting, making some chips as I lighten it up I mounted a four by four by eight toolmaker's block in my vise to give a solid base to clamp the arm to, and still move it easily. I'm using a .250 carbide end mill at about 2200, and profiling the holes by eye, the cutter makes quick work of the .250 thick aluminum plunging in for the other angle of the hole finishing up the holes cleaning up the final shape on the filing machine, it is great for "pierced work", and the kit was easy to build, nice and solid castings, top quality metal fine tool well worth the work to build. showing the rough leavings of the mill, didn't want to stray too far, that cutter leaves no room for error with the holes to shape and done, thinning out the valve end where the spring wire operates the valve carrier with a half in carbide ball mill, making the radius to end the thin portion changed over to a fly cutter to take out the bulk and leave a nice finish down to the last cut, finish thickness, change back to the ball mill to match both depth and clean up the transition last cuts with the ball mill after cleanup and deburring, back in the mill vise for drilling for the spring, center drilling with a #1 drilling out to .062, down until I see bronze, and then stop the lever, finished, deburred, and ready to go back on another view the lever back on it's spindle valve carrier back on, engine back together I used my small burner for my Duclos flame sucker but it is way too small and didn't even get a pop out of it, but the engine needs to be mounted, and a proper sized flame provided, so that will have to be next. I still have only timed it by eye, and suspect I probably need to play with that as well, but everything seems to move right, and smoothly, I get to go to the doctor's today, my neurologist wants me to have a "regular doctor", and doesn't like my answer when I tell him I don't have anything wrong with me except the bloody M.S., he says everyone needs a "general doctor". Maybe this doctor will be willing to take the piece of swarf out of my foot my wife won't cut deep enough to get, and I can't reach myself. Thanks for watching, commenting, and the advice, it is all appreciated :headbang: mad jack |
| madjackghengis:
Well, having played with my flame sucker, without even a hint of action, I've concluded the port is way too big, and there is too much friction in the valve action, moving the valve over such a large port. I didn't like my alternate choices of material, so I decided to bore out the head, machine an oversized plug to press in, and then put a proper sized port in, with a new cam and valve. the head was bored, a plug cut .001 oversized and pressed in place with loctite stud and bearing mount facing off the stub of the plug facing off the last couple thousandths head faced off, drilled, reamed out for .375 taper turned in port to improve heat retention of the head on to the burner, centering the spindle over the pipe fitting for drilling the wick tube center drilling hole drilled, ready for soldering a piece of solder was cut to fit inside the fitting, it set on a cleaned piece of sheet brass, and heated till the solder flowed all around and wicked out the wick tube soldered in place turning a cover from some brass rod, one inch in dia. turning a shoulder for knurling knurling the shoulder radiusing the top, using a rod with points on both ends, each fitting in a punch mark, one on the head stock, the other on the cross slide, holding the carriage toward the head stock and letting the movement of the cross slide follow the radius rod, and moving the carriage away from the headstock as the tool comes to center. a view from the top, note the radius rod down below the chuck the radius rod, I've made different ones for different radii, the key is cutting slowly, and keeping pressure on the carriage against the rod the burner complete, now I need to turn a slightly different cam, and turn down the o.d. of the valve, to fit the smaller port and reduce the total movement of the valve train, allowing for a lighter spring tension hopefully getting this engine running. With a bit of luck the engine should run today, but we shall see. Thanks for watching, mad jack |
| Stilldrillin:
Better luck, this time Jack! :thumbup: David D |
| Gerhard Olivier:
Good luck -you will get it If you have a moment could we see some pics of your die filer that would make a great preoject Gerhard |
| sbwhart:
lever looks good Jack in fact it all looks good. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: I'm sure you'll soon hace it running Stew |
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