Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Heron's Aeolipile
bogstandard:
Ralph,
You had no need to use stainless, mild steel would have been just fine. Stainless is one of those materials that can scare the life out of a lot of tooling.
Don't worry about the bending of copper tube bit, once it is annealed, a 3" or 4" square of 1/4" thick plywood or hardwood will have you easily making repeatable bends, as many as you want to make. When you get to that stage, just ask.
John
Darren:
Great work there Ralph,
Now what you didn't let us in on was how you lined up those four pins for drilling :dremel:
I would liked to have seen that....no worries if it's now too late... :thumbup:
With SS you need to keep the speed low for such tool abuse, well, that's what I've found anyways.
Only when you threaten it with carbide can you really scare it into submission.... :lol:
Divided he ad:
Ply wood ehh John, I'm intrigued.... Does it involve the vice?
I used the stainless because I had it in a suitable size... No real need I know, but it worked :thumbup:
Darren, When you say slow are we talking less than the 1800Rpm I was running at!!?? The 1st tool was suspect as a carbide bit... But the one in the pic was the real deal.... It didn't even think of going blunt... As I said I kind of put pressure on it for only a second at a time, with plenty of lubrication in between.
Most of my tooling is carbide, I've only got a little bit of HSS for tooling... Still got to learn to grind it properly!
The transfer of the hole points was a bit heath robinson..... I didn't even take a photo of it!
I drilled the ring first, then put a semi thick layer of marking blue around each hole. Then positioned it accurately over the die and lowered it onto it.
A light bit of pressure to make the blue transfer and lift off the ring, 4 marked holes inside 4 splodges of blue. The clear points in the centre of the blue were lined up by eye and drilled with a stub drill... I worked very well... Could be that it was a good idea or that it was just lucky, I'd like to think I could repeat the process. :)
I'll probably get my wrist slapped for not using the dials or DRO's, but my DRO's are not working and the dials are missing the clamping screws (never needed them!) The dials may soon be replaced with drive pullys for a motorised upgrade I'm trying to invent in the back of my head!
Ralph.
Divided he ad:
Sorry Stew, your reply was on the last page and I didn't see it!
I know what you mean about the pre forms... I was thinking that I might have to do that until I did the hot one, that worked quite well!
The 0.7mm will probably be the one I stick with... I haven't thought about using the brass again, it was so damn hard to form!!! Maybe with a hot approach it might take the form easier?
I might just give it a go :dremel:
Ralph.
Darren:
--- Quote from: Divided he ad on January 17, 2009, 06:39:50 PM ---
Darren, When you say slow are we talking less than the 1800Rpm I was running at!!??
The transfer of the hole points was a bit heath robinson..... I didn't even take a photo of it!
I drilled the ring first, then put a semi thick layer of marking blue around each hole. Then positioned it accurately over the die and lowered it onto it.
A light bit of pressure to make the blue transfer and lift off the ring, 4 marked holes inside 4 splodges of blue. The clear points in the centre of the blue were lined up by eye and drilled with a stub drill... I worked very well... Could be that it was a good idea or that it was just lucky, I'd like to think I could repeat the process. :)
Ralph.
--- End quote ---
I think 1,800 rpm was a tad too fast Ralph. I'm guessing but have a go at around 300rpm next time and see how it goes. SS + speed takes the edge right off HSS in an instant.
You must have a good eye Ralph, and a bit of luck. But hey if it worked then it worked.
If you are going to repeat this could you not make some little punches, slip them in the holes, lower the top piece on and tap it with a hammer. Then you would have nicely centered punch marks ready made.
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