Hi Chris, kwackers is absolutely right, sets of reamers are not the way. For your one off job, I'd drill close to size, leaving say a sixteenth, and take a piece of silver steel or drill rod, turn it to five thirty seconds and polish it nice, and make a "D" bit type reamer, mill it half way through after turning a good radius on the end, stone the flat side, making sure you leave a few thousandths for stoning, don't go past half thickness, and harden the end. I have also taken a sharp drill bit, stoned the cutting lips to a radius, trying to be dead equal on both, and found the closest drill to size possible, drill it, and use the stoned on size drill as a reamer. It will follow the hole, and the radiuses on the cutting edges will act as a reamer, rather tight, but a smooth finish will result. Run it in and out several times, and test that the rod clears it. By the way, the cylinder ports look good and you definitely have the head well made, and well drilled for bolts. you're engine is moving forward quite nicely. Can't wait to see it run. It looks like the iron you've got is top notch, and works well, always a blessing with castings. Question for you, is that rotary table set up digital by yourself? I'm looking at doing the same thing, but interupted by the flood. I've got a cam to mill for my radial engine, and I don't like the dials and vernier on my taiwanese rotary table. On subject, I take it you cleaned up the ports on the valve face and have them nice and straight as to the edges which will control your "cutoff" and effect your valve timing. It looks like paint and polishing the engine up will be the most time consuming part, you're making very good progress, and your parts are looking very good. ttfn,
jack
