Author Topic: Stuart 10V Build Log  (Read 85791 times)

Offline scrapman

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #100 on: November 24, 2010, 05:49:01 PM »
Hi Chris thank you for the info i will keep reading your posts, Hope you enjoyed your brake  :thumbup:


Ray

Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #101 on: December 02, 2010, 06:05:25 PM »
Got back on track with the 10V this week. Still hope to have it finished by Christmas. I got to the stage where I had finished the crank and con rod. This was a real pain because if you remember the con rod had been started, the only piece that had been touched on the entire set when I purchased it second hand (strange place to start?).
So got to here:



I then machined the cross head which was quite straight forward and also started the piston rod. At this point I was desperate to try it out and turn it on the lathe so I connected it up and it turned! I must have done something right. At this point I realised I`d rushed and really it was only a truely happy sign if it would turn with the piston running in the cylinder. So I`ve done that and it is running as well.... a very happy chappy... crank, con rod, cross head, piston rod, bottom cover (with corrective bushing after my mistake as mentioned in an earlier post) and cylinder all align and run.

The following video just shows the con rod and cross head running and then with a second video of the piston rod running through the bottom cover (I was worrying about the bushing I had to do). But I`ve since had it turning with the piston in the cylinder earlier this evening.



Going to bed now a happy chappy...

Chris

Offline scrapman

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #102 on: December 02, 2010, 06:34:30 PM »
Hi Chris, your making good progress with the engine, :thumbup:

Ray.

Offline NickG

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #103 on: December 03, 2010, 04:50:55 AM »
Chris, nice work - con rod looks complicated and it's spot on.

Nick
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #104 on: December 03, 2010, 05:51:10 AM »
Cheers chaps - con rod was a pita! It was difficult enough to read about when working on it from scratch but it came in the kit like this:



Hole was off center, at an angle to the square face and low....anyway, I`ve managed to correct it and it seems to be running OK!

Thanks again for the reply.

Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #105 on: December 09, 2010, 06:06:30 PM »
I`m struggling to keep up with scrapman but I`ve been working on this during the odd few minutes I get in my free time so no construction pictures although most of these parts were quite straight forward.

So here is everything together


Steam chest mounted -


...eccentric mounting


Flywheel, still needs more work but running true.


Piston...



Piston at the highest point in the cylinder, it gets a good sweep!


Steam chest cover:


Inside the steam chest:


and my collection of bits so far...


So I just have the glands, eccentric and valve parts to make and I should be able to give it a fire up. Still a while to go I guess but before Christmas I hope!

Offline NickG

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #106 on: December 09, 2010, 06:29:57 PM »
Brilliant Chris,

Great work and nice pics. Not far off at all - am confident you'll have a runner before Christmas.
NIck
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline scrapman

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #107 on: December 09, 2010, 07:59:27 PM »
It's coming along nicely Chris  :clap: you will soon have it running,

Ray,

Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #108 on: December 15, 2010, 12:03:00 PM »
Been a bit poorly for the last few days, man flu. So I had it running at the weekend but on and off, things were a bit too tight and also I had made a couple of mistakes which I`ll post about later. But here is it running. I just reassembled it on the kitchen table, with a hanky in my hand feeling sorry for myself. Plugged it in to compressor and off it went!! Well that has cheered me up, think I`m feeling a bit better now as well :)



Offline Gerhard Olivier

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #109 on: December 15, 2010, 01:21:08 PM »
Congratulations on a RUNNER

Nice build Chris

Gerhard
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Offline spuddevans

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #110 on: December 15, 2010, 02:33:40 PM »
Well done Chris, another runner  :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


Tim
Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe  -  MI0TME

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #111 on: December 15, 2010, 03:42:47 PM »
 :D nice one Chris  :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:



Rob

Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #112 on: December 15, 2010, 03:49:48 PM »
Cheers guys... taken a while to get here and it isn`t the prettiest example of a 10v but it runs! I made lots of mistakes... but I learnt from them.

It is currently in bits now ready for polishing and painting. Colour colour colour.... !? :coffee:

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #113 on: December 15, 2010, 03:57:01 PM »
Chris.
Another smile time!   :ddb: :ddb:

Colour? British Racing Green.......  :thumbup:

David D
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #114 on: December 15, 2010, 04:49:41 PM »
I use to have an MFG which was BRG. I`m now edging towards Oxford blue.

Chris

Offline NickG

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #115 on: December 15, 2010, 06:37:06 PM »
Chris - it's brilliant, well done  :bow:

Lot of bits there. Blue sounds good.

Nick
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #116 on: December 16, 2010, 03:27:18 AM »
Well done that man  :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

Nothing like a running engine to cheer you up  :D

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #117 on: December 16, 2010, 03:35:22 AM »
I use to have an MFG which was BRG. I`m now edging towards Oxford blue.

Chris

Chris.
My BGT was Mineral blue......



Loved the car, and the colour!  :thumbup:

David D
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline cidrontmg

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #118 on: December 16, 2010, 07:55:22 AM »
That is sweet! Another runner, a collection of inert metal bits that put all together, suddenly becomes far more than the sum of the parts. I at least get a kick every time that happens! All Stuart engines have also that little extra, they look like they mean business. Solid and sturdy, everything meant to work forever. Well done.  :bow:
 :wave:
Olli
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Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #119 on: December 16, 2010, 02:44:21 PM »
Thanks for all the posts guys. I joined this site short of a couple of a years ago and back then I could only just tell you the difference between a mill and a lathe   ::) so everything I`ve got from reading the forums or meeting quite a few of you in person. So really appreciate all the advice, information and constructive criticism. This is certainly my biggest achievement yet! - thanks again.

I`m not ashamed to say I made quite a few errors during the build of which I`ve learnt from all of them. Here are my errors and how I got around them or the modifications I needed to do to overcome them:

First, in the video I don`t know if any of you noticed the brass end on the top of the steam chest. This is what it should look like:


However when I put the gland and packing in place I found my drill must have wondered so the hole supporting the other end of the valve rod was not in-line with the bore in the gland and jammed the valve rod. I couldn`t re-drill because you can only drill the hole through the gland. So I milled off the old support knob and drilled it through!! I then very very carefully bored a slight taper on the hole and turned down a stub of brass to enter the taper from inside the steam chest (so it wouldn`t pop out under pressure). It took ages and two attempts to get one that would just fit in and jam up in the taper. Perhaps a little more luck than judgment but my second attempt was perfect, I applied a little loctite and tapped it home. Filled it flat and re-drilled the hole, this time slowly and through the gland so I knew it was straight. OK - well now I have a little brass bell end on the top of my steam chest but it worked!




Second error was my threading on the piston. I haven`t got a clue why but on my initial test run I could just tell something was wrong with the piston. I took the cylinder top cover off and found the piston had a little movement on the piston rod (it wasn`t screwing down properly on it). Luckily I had an end mill about 0.05ish smaller than the size of a 7BA nut supplied. I aligned it on the mill and drilled the depth of a nut and hammered and loctited a nut on top of the piston. I threaded the end of the cylinder rod 7BA and this allowed my piston rod to screw really tightly onto the piston - no movement and no air escaping.





And finally, not really a modification and I`m still confused if I`ve done it right or wrong! It works but I`m not entirely happy. I was following the 10V build book and I read the instructions and still believe that they say to cut all the way through the eccentric. Reading the plans that came from Stuart, they definitely just say cut through one side. It still works but I`m not sure which is correct of if I have mis-read the plans.



So there you go....just a few pictures of my errors and how I corrected them!  I know ideally I would have done it correctly from the start but you live and learn....


BTW, I`m thinking now Brunswick Green with a Cream flywheel!
Chris
« Last Edit: December 16, 2010, 02:53:20 PM by craynerd »

Offline NickG

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #120 on: December 16, 2010, 04:11:36 PM »
Good saves on those parts Chris and nobody would be any the wiser but thanks for sharing. That sounds a nice colour scheme.

Nick
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #121 on: December 20, 2010, 07:29:36 PM »
I decided to paint Brunswick green with a cream flywheel. I still need to put on the cylinder cover and then mount it on a wooden board. It is coming together slowly! Paint job isn`t great but I did my best. It went on OK and I left it 48 hours to dry (tin says 6!) but it still wasn`t hard and pulled a little bit on the nuts when I screwed them on. Still, I`m really pleased with the colours...cheers Kwackers for showing me the pics of your cream flywheel. I`ve copied you there, I think it looks great!!

Flywheel has inherited a bit of a wobble so I`ll take a look at that but it could be because the engine is only sitting on the board and isn`t bolted down. I don`t know but I`m really please with it, now painted and running!


Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #122 on: December 21, 2010, 03:24:38 AM »
Looking good Chris!  :clap:

Would never have thought of cream for a flywheel!  :scratch:

I usually paint them any colour you like..... As long as it's red!  :thumbup:

David D
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline raynerd

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #123 on: December 21, 2010, 08:51:22 AM »
Thanks David, I remember reading you were into your red flywheels!

Could anyone give me any info regarding the sort of thing I should make for oilers on the crank bearings? Is it just simply a case of a "cup" with a narrow hole through to allow the oil to drain down directly?
Chris


Offline cidrontmg

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Re: Stuart 10V Build Log
« Reply #124 on: December 21, 2010, 06:23:39 PM »
Thanks David, I remember reading you were into your red flywheels!

Could anyone give me any info regarding the sort of thing I should make for oilers on the crank bearings? Is it just simply a case of a "cup" with a narrow hole through to allow the oil to drain down directly?
Chris

Simple cup oilers will work - except the hole must be VERY narrow indeed. A 1 mm hole, and the oil vanishes like water in Sahara. 0.5 mm is about the max. thatīs somehow useful. Also, oil in a small open cup will gather dust, which will eventually block the small hole.
There are plans for needle controlled glass (=plastic) cylinder oilers at least in HMEM. They have a needle that blocks the hole, except when you lift it for a second, and they have a far larger oil reservoir than a cup. A lot more work than cups, of course, and some small bits. Theyīre almost watch making scale for a small engine like 10V. But if you donīt mind the work, they are far preferable.
 :wave:
« Last Edit: December 21, 2010, 06:43:58 PM by cidrontmg »
Olli
Penafiel
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