Gallery, Projects and General > The Design Shop
simple taper attachment
No1_sonuk:
--- Quote from: jcs0001 on September 16, 2010, 09:46:11 AM ---John - Your description of setting up the compound for cutting a taper makes sense - do you have any tricks or ideas as to continuing such a cut when the compound travel is too short. In most cases a shortened taper would likely work for me but it would be nice to have a way to fairly easily cut a full length taper for an MT4 for example. On another lathe I had mounted a dremel as a small tool post grinder - I could do that again and use it for a final touch up to a taper I suppose.
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I'll be needing to do this soon (cut a taper longer than my compound travel).
My plan it so go as far as the compound can, move the tool away, withdraw the compound to 0, then move the carriage and cross slide so that the tool just dosen't touch the end of where I'd got to. Take a few light cuts while adjusting the carriage/cross slide until the cuts match, then continue the rest of the taper. In my case, my taper will have grooves cut around it, and it's not a fit-in part, so any minor diameter difference doesn't matter. You'd just need to be more careful to line it up right.
Also, look at where your machine holds the taper. There might be enough sticking out that you can put the "join" where it doesn't matter.
andyf:
--- Quote from: jcs0001 on September 16, 2010, 09:46:11 AM ---John - Your description of setting up the compound for cutting a taper makes sense - do you have any tricks or ideas as to continuing such a cut when the compound travel is too short. In most cases a shortened taper would likely work for me but it would be nice to have a way to fairly easily cut a full length taper for an MT4 for example.
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You might be able to stretch the compound slide travel a bit with a trick like this http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/extended-top-slide-range.html
but a 4MT is about 4" long and such an extension might still not give enough travel.
Andy
John Hill:
--- Quote from: jcs0001 on September 16, 2010, 09:46:11 AM ---
John - Your description of setting up the compound for cutting a taper makes sense - do you have any tricks or ideas as to continuing such a cut when the compound travel is too short. In most cases a shortened taper would likely work for me but it would be nice to have a way to fairly easily cut a full length taper for an MT4 for example. On another lathe I had mounted a dremel as a small tool post grinder - I could do that again and use it for a final touch up to a taper I suppose.
John.
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John, I just make the taper as long as I can so they turn out a bit short but that hardly matters. On my lathe a MT3 is a bit short but there is still plenty of area for the tapers to lock, I make them full length on the small end so that the taper ejector in the tail stock works. If the taper is to be used in the lathe spindle I drill and tap for a draw bar.
Bogstandard:
This might give you a bit of an insight into what you are trying to achieve.
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1993.0
Bogs
John Hill:
Bogs, I re read you page and of course learned a bit more along the way! :bow:
Also, I have just had a brain wave! I am going to make a double ended MT3 taper. Then in the future it will be easy to put one end in the spindle and re-set the compound angle against the end that will be sticking out! :med:
I suppose I could put the double ended taper in the tail stock and set the compound for cutting a female taler. :scratch: (cant imagine that being accurate enough though) :coffee:
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