Gallery, Projects and General > The Design Shop
simple taper attachment
Bogstandard:
John,
You are making life too difficult for yourself.
After you have finished the external cut, without touching the compound angle, lift off the saddle and mount it with all the handwheels on the other side of the lathe, swing around the tool in it's holder, put the machine into reverse and then cut your internal taper. :lol:
But joking aside, it would be much easier to roughly set up the taper on your compound, then when about 2/3's the way thru cutting the internal taper, fine tune the compund angle to match an original taper to your bored taper using engineers blue to show you what is going on. It takes very little time doing it that way.
John
jcs0001:
Thanks for the replies everyone. I may still take on a taper attachment as a project but have lots to do in the meantime. Will try to find a big enough piece of rusty steel at our local metal salvage yard for a taper or two and try the compound method.
John.
John Hill:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on September 17, 2010, 10:01:35 PM ---
But joking aside, it would be much easier to roughly set up the taper on your compound, then when about 2/3's the way thru cutting the internal taper, fine tune the compund angle to match an original taper to your bored taper using engineers blue to show you what is going on. It takes very little time doing it that way.
John
--- End quote ---
Thanks John, for some odd reason I do not seem to have grasped the engineer blue technique. :loco:
I have been wiping the non-drying type blue over my taper then putting a sleeve on, wringing it a little, then checking for rub marks. It does work of course but it seems no better than my other method which is turn about a quarter of the length then slipping the sleeve on and wiggling it to decide which is the biggest end and adjusting accordingly, by the time I have got a non wiggle fit the taper is approaching the required length.
Bogstandard:
John, mine is the tried and trusted normal method of doing it, if you get the same results, who is to say you are doing it wrong.
Cat skinning comes to mind.
John
John Stevenson:
I have a taper turning attachment built into the lathe but I much prefer this method, it's quicker, faster, fits all lathes and allows for a steeper taper than allowed by a TTA.
To use you make a small piece with 1/2" shank ? that fits the boring head, it just needs a centre drilled hole in it. Shown fitted to the boring head.
Then you make another, any diameter just centre it AND LEAVE IN THE CHUCK. This ensures that even with a crappy 3 jaw you are dead nuts on centre. Then take your pre-centred blank and with a dob of grease fit a suitable ball bearing to each end and place between your new centres.
Drive is from the chuck via some sort of drive dog.
The idea of the balls is that there is no side loading on the centres caused be being off axis. the photo clearly shows that this job is next to impossible with a TTA because of the steep taper and the amount of thrust placed on conventional centres.
Another plus factor is that this method allows allow the boring head to be used as a boring head or even a radius turning attachment, 3 tools for the price of one.
Now the purists / flat earth society will say what about the slop in the tailstock keyway causing it to drop off centre and alter the angle.
WELL FIX THE DAMN SLOP FIRST AND STOP WHINGING.
John S.
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