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| Mini project: Keypad mount |
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| AdeV:
LOL Marv - I like that idea... might just do that :) It'll be a bit less conspicuous once the weather hood is in place, but, nice thinking... Ralph - also good thinking... Originally, the plan was to have a servo, mounted on the backside of the door, twist the lock's knob (fnaar): However, the lock is the style pictured above, and for some reason the servo is unable to pull it more than about half way. Probably I need to get my diameters spot on, etc; but then I can't operate the lock manually from the inside.... so plan B: I will make some kind of shaft which passes out of the back of the lock, and is attached directly to the thingybob that goes in & out (don't know it's technical name...). The other end of the shaft will be in a floating slot thing, which the servo can pull on (which opens the door), but which also allows the thingybob to go in & out without moving the servo; which allows the door to open on the key or knob, and also to close when the striker pushes the thingybob in. Exact details will be worked out..... later.... I've not milled a deep enough recess for the LED wires; so they're being squished when I bolt the device to the door, which is causing problems with getting the correct - or, indeed, sometimes, any - LEDs to light. So it's back on the mill with it tomorrow night, to make a bit more room for the wiring... I may also mill the front off the LEDs, so they fit flush with the front, and finally I may glue them in place, rather than simply relying on the pressure of the door on the back to hold them. Mk2 would probably have a fitted back, which would allow me to make good the wiring before mounting it up, and be at least moderately confident it'd all work when there... |
| Divided he ad:
Ade, Just a thought... As you do! What about making the catch plate pivot and the solenoid pin have a bevel on one side? Then when you enter the code the pin moves down and lets you in when the catch plate pivots open. Stopping at a pre-determined point so that when the door shuts it pulls the plate back into the closed position and the beveled edge of the pin allows it to spring down and then shoot up into position. Just a thought, I'm sure if you wanted you could elabourate on it with different pins etc :thumbup: Just a thought :scratch: Ralph. |
| AdeV:
Ralph - that's certainly close to the usual setup with an electronic lock; the catch plate is normally what does the work. The problem I have is my door is outward opening - no prob with the lock itself, I can reverse the thingumyjig to work correctly, but as a result the "catch plate" is actually the fixed door frame, with a 6mm pin welded to it to provide additional "catch". Tomorrow, I'll take a pic to show you what I mean. I will, at some point, put a similar system in the office; for that, I'll probably just use an outward-opening electronic catch plate, rather than fiddling with the lock plunger. |
| andyf:
Ade, those Yale-type nightlatch locks aren't very secure. Google "bump key" to see how vulnerable they are. :bugeye: Andy |
| Divided he ad:
I know what you mean Ade, no worries. I just thought it might be a possibility. If the locks are as bad as Andy says, maybe a solenoid shoot bolt would be a good idea? with a high security key as a fail safe? Or are we making a door full of locks (with a window next to it ::) ) here? Ralph. |
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