Mini project: Keypad mount

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Bluechip:
Adev

Not sure if you've posted.. longish thread ... but ..

Do you have the correct secure hinges for outward opening doors?

Otherwise, toe-rags can drive out the pin, then the locky end won't matter, 'cos the door will open from the hinge side .. :(

Similar to these, the pins stop the door being opened if the hinge pivot wotsit is removed ..

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/22313/Ironmongery/Hinges/Flush-Hinges/Security-Hinge-Grade-13-Satin-Stainless-Steel-102-x-76mm-Pack-of-2

Dave BC

AdeV:
I should probably point out, this is not the primary security: there's a "proper" padlock, under an anti-bolt-cutter hood - all heavy duty steel plate, on the door itself, and the site gate is secured in a similar manner. The main reason for adding the yale type lock & keypad is so I can have the main unit locked during the day when I'm in the office, to stop oiks & general scum from just wandering in - without the hassle & aggro of locking the main padlock all the time. It also means people can't just wander in when I'm using the machines, which are at the far end of the unit.

It also means I can shoot out for a sarnie at lunchtime without having to faff around with padlocks & stuff. The site is occupied during the day, just not my unit.

Ralph, you wrote your reply while I was writing mine, but I think the above covers your points too :thumbup:

Dave, I can't remember what kind of hinges are on the door, I'll have to check tomorrow...

Bluechip:
AdeV

Yup, check the hinges. One of my biking mates was done over about 8 yrs ago. Tried it myself. A battery screwdriver with a Dremel type cut off disc went through the pivot on a scrap hinge in about a minute. Drive out the pivot, and the hinge just falls into two parts. It's that easy. Those pins are not very hard.

Once the hinges are shot, it wouldn't matter how good the 'five lever BS' locks are. You are in. QED

Dave BC

AdeV:
Dave - a determined enough thief will get through anything, given enough time. The hinges on my door are pretty chunky, a dremel type tool would get them eventually, but oxy-acetylene would be quicker. Mind you, once they've got the little door open, they'll need to work through another padlock to get the big doors open, then shift the bus before anything big will come out... but that's another story.

On with the show.... I was wondering how difficult it would be to alter the lock to drive the plunger directly. In fact, it was pretty easy in the end:

This shows the hole through which a long bolt will protrude, which is screwed into the end of the plunger thingumybob. Due to the drill wandering a bit, I couldn't tap it all the way through; but the bolt's got plenty of thread to hang on to, and it doesn't interfere with the normal lock operation at all. Bonus.

A quick trip to B&Q separated me from a breathtaking £3.58 in return for a very small handful of 70mm bolts. Next question.... how to make a suitable device for the servo to catch the bolt & pull it? The answer, it turned out, was really simple: Bolt a washer to the end of the bolt, and just use a regular servo horn. Add a bracket to hold the servo in place, et voila:

That's in the normal position; here it is with the lock pulled back:

That 15kg servo handles the lock plunger with consummate ease - much better than trying to twist the handle, which wasn't working at all well. What's more, if you twist the handle, or the key, or just close the door using the regular yale-type mechanism; the bolt moves & doesn't bind or stick on anything. It did scrape a couple of threads at one point; if that proves to be a problem in the future I'll just file part of the bolt down a bit so it doesn't bind up.

Because I can't do anything the simple way.... first, press "A" to get the machine's attention. The "Attention" lamp lights:

Oops, wrong combination:

That's better, now the door will open - as long as the green light is lit:

So, all I need to do now, is tidy the installation up a bit ::):

I'm not sure how good that 12v supply is for the servo either.... I'll replace it with one of those multi-volt supplies from Maplins.

That's pretty much it for this project, other than finding a suitable box to put the gubbins in, and adding a weather shield to the keypad.

Divided he ad:
Ingenious :thumbup: :dremel:

Very effective Ade.

Just one thing....
--- Quote ---I'll replace it with one of those multi-volt supplies from Maplins.
--- End quote ---
Always check that the voltage is what it says.... I've had them 3-8volts higher than prescribed! :zap: Blown up all sorts that way!!

Thanks for sharing this lot.... I might be PMing in the near future when I get my new workshop door in :)

Ralph.

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