Getting those Rear Hubs off *&^&*(*

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andyf:
I had no problems with overheated brake fluid on my Lea Francis, 'cos it had rod operated brakes. Those had their own special features. The brake pedal pulled on a rod leading to the front beam axle, then via a swinging link the pull was transmitted to each front wheel. When trying to brake hard at top speed, the cartspring front suspension twisted and allowed the beam axle to move backwards slightly, relative to the chassis. This slackened off the brakes, so the axle would move forward again, reapplying them. Meanwhile, the rod to the rear axle would be doing the same thing, only 180 degrees out of sync with the front. So pulling up from top speed (only about 100 mph) was best done slowly, to avoid shaking the fillings out of my teeth.

Andy

John Hill:
Andy, my Riley had a marvelous braking system.

The foot brake acted on a master cylinder under the floor. That cylinder was not fixed to the frame instead it was supported by rods that went to the rear axle brakes. Pushing the brake pedal applied hydraulic pressure on the front and mechanical pressure on the rear. You can imagine that such a system had a lot of free travel in the pedal.

The rear axle was on quarter eliptic springs (i.e. leaf springs) with a shakel at each end! The only thing that stopped the axle moving back and forth in the car was a large rubber bush at the front end of the torgue tube.

Going over a bump at speed would bounce the rear axle back which pulled on the rods which applied the front brakes and when the rear wheels hit the ground again all brakes were locked on but they let go very quickly. Fortunately the brakes were not effective enough to really cause a problem and the remedy was easy enough which was to allow even more slack in the linkages. Or replace the rubber bush I suppose!

I do so miss the days of my youth when such adventures were an everyday occurance! :coffee:

AdeV:

--- Quote from: Darren on February 23, 2010, 02:09:31 PM ---
I always thought that brake fade was caused by the hydraulic fluid getting too hot. Something that effects disk brakes more than drum brakes due to the design :coffee:

--- End quote ---

There's a two main things that can cause brake fade: Too much heat in the disc/pads = inability to take more heat = brake fade (typically, melting or glazing the pads while you're at it. And old/water contaminated brake fluid, which will rapidly boil, the steam in the lines is compressible = brake fade. Water contamination usually strikes long before the rest of your brake system hits max temperature.

Ordinary road driving is unlikely to cause brake fade; the exception may be old fluid on a long downhill. Race drivers have to deal with it all the time...

jatt:
Well John I definetely cant complain about a dodgy interior lite and door handle that doesnt always shut properly. That's small time compared to your past and current issues. I always wondered where they sent the Fords that John West rejected. ::)

Mines done 220,000 Km. Had its fair share of hard work... towing a horse float in the past comes to mind. Mines not a flashy one, just a 1 tonne version (tradesman they call it over here). Heavy duty suspension in the back, feels a bit like driving a truck. Fast and pretty it aint, but I wanted a workhorse that didnt drag its arse too much when loaded.

Bernd:

--- Quote from: ieezitin on February 23, 2010, 04:26:35 PM ---The vehicle reaches a cruising top speed of around 250 miles an hour, it will come to a complete stop at that speed using these breaks at a distance of 400 ft and you can touch the rotors by hand straight away!.

So I have ordered a 4 cyl diesel VW-Bug with the same set up! ::)

All the best Vortsprung de technic. Anthony.

--- End quote ---

Anthony,

My wife has a 5 cyl gas VW-bug and she won't let me take it up to 100mph. Although I think it would top out at about 120, maybe. :) Itchin' to give it a try though.

Bernd

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