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| Getting those Rear Hubs off *&^&*(* |
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| Darren:
Although I've been pottering in the workshop of late I've had nothing much exciting to report. But I thought I'd show this ... Been working on my car quite a bit lately and one issue I had was metal on metal grinding on the rear brakes. It's not that long since I put new shoes on, maybe a year. So I didn't rush out and buy new shoes, instead I decided to have a look at what might be going on. And don't you know it, those bl***y drums would not come off. There was me banging and levering away and would they budge! I'm sure some of you have been there and got the t-shirt. Well I did manage in the end and I was damn well going to make sure I didn't have to go through that again. I'm sure most of you know what the problem is, it's the lip that forms as the drum surface wears. You have to force this over the shoes and it can sometimes ruin them if you are unfortunate. Mine were ok and as suspected they were not worn either. In fact they still looked new with plenty of meat on them. So, first job was to remove this damned lip. :dremel: Centered up to within 0.001" on the RT and not only milled the lip off but took it a further 0.020" as well for future wear. There then, that won't be giving me any more trouble will it :ddb: Now onto the original problem, the metal on metal binding noise. As I said the shoes were fine so we had to look for other signs of trouble. The only thing I could come up with was that as the drum rim had worn slightly allowing the metal part of the shoes to come into contact with the outer face (wheel face) of the drum as this was tapered at the very outer edge towards the rim. (you can breathe now) So 0.050" was removed Sorted, did both drums and the brakes no longer make any 'orrible noises and the drums slip on an off without a hammer in sight :ddb: |
| Bernd:
Darren, I remember the days I did my VW brakes. Same problem. Only I discovered that as the shoes wore the brakes would adjust themselfs. They had a small star wheel the would turn a nut and extend the brake rod from the cylinder a bit further. What I had to was take a screw driver and screw the little wheels back in releaseing the brakes. Made taking the drum off much easier. With todays disk brakes no such worry any more. I've attached a copy from the original VW manual to give you a better idea of what I'm talking about. It's item #7. Bernd |
| Darren:
Yes I know what you are on about Bernd. You could release the brakes through a little hole in the rear. Mine have an adjuster, but it's in the same place as the hydraulic cylinders and there is no access from the rear. Hence my modifications to prevent a repeat performance :dremel: And they say we are advancing .... :doh: |
| AdeV:
--- Quote from: Darren on February 22, 2010, 06:39:58 PM ---And they say we are advancing .... :doh: --- End quote --- Modern cars don't have drum brakes..... :lol: (as far as I know!) I had similar issues getting the drums off an old Capri axle; fortunately I didn't have to care what damage I did, so the large adjustment hammer was used :D Good fix, though, I like it :thumbup: |
| CrewCab:
--- Quote from: Darren on February 22, 2010, 05:06:55 PM ---I'm sure some of you have been there and got the t-shirt. --- End quote --- In 3 sizes ............ and I've also got one showing Bernd's brake adjusters , though in my case they were affixed to a Ford Anglia :dremel: Takes me back a while chaps, thanks for making me feel old :bugeye: :beer: CC |
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