Getting those Rear Hubs off *&^&*(*

Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

<< < (5/9) > >>

Darren:
Hi Kevin,

I wasn't too worried about concentivity as I was not skimming the braking surface, just removing the lip.

But the drum was simply too large for my lathe. After doing it on the mill it's now very obvious to me that it's a far simpler task to to on the mill. If I was asked to do another smaller drum I would still choose the mill. Easier to set up true for a start.

Bernd:

--- Quote from: Darren on February 22, 2010, 06:39:58 PM ---Mine have an adjuster, but it's in the same place as the hydraulic cylinders and there is no access from the rear.

--- End quote ---

I see you guys been busy talking about brakes while I was sleeping, but then again your at least 5 hours ahead of me and you guys down under are ready to go to bed. :lol:

I discovered that to on a new version of VW brakes. What I found was they moved the hole to the brake drum outside. I at first I had no idea why that holes was there. :doh:

ieezitin:
Darren this is why I said drums don’t stop a vehicle.

Before this explanation, lets get to the fundamental nature on what we are talking here, it is friction and heat. We have to understand the common philosophy that both systems use when stopping a car in relation to this. On how it absorbs and releases this phenomena.

By applying resistance, or friction, to a turning wheel, a vehicle's brakes cause the wheel to slow down creating heat as a consequence. The rate at which a wheel can be slowed depends on several factors including vehicle weight, braking force and total braking surface area. It also depends heavily on how well a brake arrangement converts wheel movement into heat by way of friction and how quickly this heat is removed from the brake components.

This is where the difference between drum brakes and disc brakes becomes definite.

Under high braking conditions, like descending a steep hill with a heavy load or repeated high-speed slow downs, drum brakes fade and lose effectiveness, drum brakes can only operate as long as they can absorb the heat generated by slowing a vehicle's wheels. Once the brake components themselves become saturated with heat, they lose the ability to stop a vehicle. The shoes glaze and loose all properties for resistance at that moment, It gets worse with time and ware and in the end the system becomes ineffective.

In the same situation with heavy disc braking, the rotor used in disc brakes is fully exposed to outside air. This exposure works to constantly flood cool air to the rotor, greatly reducing its tendency to overheat or cause fading. This system is ten times more efficient at shredding excessive heat. Another trick is to drill holes in the disc as to trap water which in turn by means of convection vents off-steam accelerating the heat loss process.

Sure cool breaks works fine hence you have full lock up, heat them up and I guarantee you are only stopping on your front discs.

All the best. Anthony.

Divided he ad:
Nicely done Darren.... I'd have still used a die grinder.... but then that's old habits and all that :dremel:

LOL.... Been there done that T shirts and all.... Never made the video though!? MOT'd, failed and fixed in their hundreds..... got fixes for all your ills!! :lol:

Just not on line enough and not really an easy thing to sort out in text on the interweb!

After reading this thread there are just a few things I'd like to add....

Drum brakes are still fitted to new cars... Mostly small ones, go look at some lower end Clios, Micras and Corsas etc.... Many of then still have em'. They're cheaper than discs and calipers!

Also I usually find adjusting through the stud hole with a home made gadget works very well :thumbup:

Ralph.

John Hill:

--- Quote from: jatt on February 23, 2010, 04:22:25 AM ---Its probably not what u wanted to hear John, but my XH handbrake is the best one on any car I have owned to date.
--- End quote ---

Maybe those boys at Geelong left something out of mine as it has been very poor from new!

--- Quote ---Only issues I have with mine at present is the overflow bottle has a small crack at the top and theres a small leak somewhere around the exhaust at the engine end.
--- End quote ---

200,000 coming up on mine and there is quite a list! The first set of front brakes lasted 60,000 (because I was not using the shifter enough?), the air con had the condensor replaced and 3 years later is leaking somewhere, the fuel system got water in it (that stupid cap on the side?) requiring new tank liner, fuel lines, fuel rail, injectors and fuel pump. All sorts of electrical things have stopped working, rear window heater, a few dash lights and 3 of the speeds on the fan switch. It needed a new head gasket too! But hey, it looks great being Regency Red XR6 with full body kit, hard lid and a nice Aussie style sun visor! :ddb:

Sometimes I wonder about my sanity in keeping hold of it. :scratch:

Sorry Darren, hope you do not mind the hijacking of your topic! :beer:

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version