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| andyf:
:doh: :doh: http://www.kingston-engineering.co.uk/exstock.htm Click on >>> Datasheet Andy |
| NickG:
Thanks Andy, could be another option if I can't do it and they would supply just 1. Looking forward to seeing you finishing yours off Jim. :thumbup: Nick |
| NickG:
Well, made a little progress last night, thanks to all the advice I should be able to have a better stab at screw cutting soon. I made myself a little tool holder 3/8" diameter from some hard octaganol steel that used to be a chisel I think. It's very stiff, was hardly flexing at all with a 0.020" cut 2" from the chuck. Should be good for boring although I guess there are other factors like getting any resonance through it - will just have to try it before I can comment on that though. Only stupid thing I did though, when I drilled the cross hole I forgot to drill it parallel to a flat :doh: :doh: :doh: what a numpty, I'll have to mill new flats on the gripping end now! My plan is to use 3/16" silver steel which I can turn a taper on to get the angles accurate, face to length then mill down to half section - much the same way as a D bit. The round section should give me appropriate clearances by default apart from front and top rake which I can grind on then harden it. The tool bit will be secured with a 5mm cap screw from the end. Will post some pics up at weekend and any trial cuts I make. I may have to change the material for my nut to something softer though as I said before. This will also do as a little boring bar as I've needed one for a while. So not much progress but a little. If I can't sort the vice I may be able to get the tool room at work to help out! Then back to the engine. Nick |
| madjackghengis:
Hi Nick, if you run into chatter problems with your boring the thread, you can take your top slide, turn it parallel to the ways, and you can machine a shallow cut, then with the next cut, move the cutter ahead a bit, say ten or twenty thousandths, and take a cut at the same depth, then move the top slide back for the next cut, just making sure you stop doing this as you approach the total width of the inside thread. This lets the cutting tool cut on two sides at a time only, and can relieve pressure, and stop chatter. It works well with a large acme or square thread as long as you keep good track of where the cutter is relative to the cut. Old large allen wrenches make good cutters for such jobs, with the angle head already there, and good tool steel. Sometimes you need to case harden the very tip, if you're cutting in hard steel or the like, but otherwise, they are hard enough for most jobs. Looking forward to seeing you back to your vices, as all men ought to be :beer:Mad Jack |
| NickG:
Thanks madjack, I came across the method you described sounds good. Good idea with the allen keys with the crank already there, never thought of that! Nick |
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