John
Yes, I'm sure you're right re: bespoke adhesives for specific applications in industry. Used some myself.
I too, knurl shafts, not particularly for adhesive clearance, but to get the wretched thing at right angles to the crankdisc. Or very nearly!
The little oscillator I made earlier this year was done in that manner. Which brings me to a modest Rant. ( It's cold, miserable and damp, I feel I owe it to myself).
Rant begins ..
On more than one occasion, in ME and other mags, often while describing a beginners engine crank assembly or the like, something along these lines ....
'Ream the crankdisc 3/8", clean the shaft and disc, assemble with Loctite, and leave to cure for xx.' ..No susequent mention of skimming the disc!
Er, no! Gonads! It doesn't work. Not for me anyway. That disc will not run true. (1) the round bar will be undersize. (2) The reamer will cut oversize.
With a hole some .003/4" larger than the shaft, there is a whole lot of wobble at the disc periphery. Agreed, Loctite will effectively fix the two items together. I doubt if it evens out any error, it's not intended to do so.
What I did, FWIW, is, similar to what John says, to lightly knurl the shaft leaving about 1/2" plain as a guide. The disc will now be a light push fit on the knurled part of the shaft. Clean shaft, apply Loctite, push the disc on, then bring up a bit of 1/2" sq. oak in the toolpost to gently push the disc true. I got about .0012 TIR. Did skim it to remove the stub from the disc centre. I would be pleased to hear of a better method. It is possible to get undersize reamers. Are they the 'professional' answer? Bore the disc, not ream?
Rant Over
Dave BC