I think it would be pretty slick. You gain the advantages of inserts, i.e. no grinding, just spin to a new point when dull, without the big disadvantage, the edge chipping when the belt slips, motor stalls, you look at it wrong, or it just feels like it. Unfortunately it looks like the price is the same as carbide
, sooo....... I guess I'll keep practicing my grinding. 
Jeff
If you are having undue problems with chipping then it may be that you are selecting the wrong grades for the job in hand? Or even shapes.
Take for example a common Sandvik CMMT 06 02 08-UR 235 P45 tip,
We have already discussed shapes further up with CMMT being quite versatile having two different angles for us to make good use of. One being stronger than the other.
The No's relate to size, thickness and corner radius. But what about the letters at the end? xxxx xx xx xx-UR ? Anyone take any notice of these?
Well the R stands for Roughing, (they will also finish fine as well in my exp) This gives us an indication of how tough a tip may be. You will also find F=fine and M=medium
Then we have 245. This relates to the specification of the makeup of the tip in more detail. In this case 235 is an extremely tough grade with a three-layer coating of TiN, TiC and TiN. The total thickness is only 3 micrometer. GC235 is an exceptionally good grade for intermittent machining, the machining of stainless and carbon steels at low speeds and parting operations.' - 'For toughness demanding operations in steel and steel castings. Suitable for low speeds and unfavourable conditions. Extremely good edge security.
Considering this grade is also suitable for low speeds then it may be a good choice for some of us with older machinery.
Lastly there is P45, This relates to P=Steel of a hardness of 45, which is pretty hard.
As I have said before we can use most types of different tips for most of our machining. But if you are experiencing excessive chipping or a limited top speed, then a tougher tip as described here may be a good choice for you.