Author Topic: Myford Taper Turning Atahment AGIAN (Read 90011 times)

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #50 on:** January 04, 2013, 01:39:29 PM »

Hi outlawspeeder

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I have seen a lot of plans with a dead man bar. Rob, your design works for only that part of the lathe, the first 12-18 inches? Step in and tell me if my thoughts are wrong. Is a dead man design really needed? I don’t do a lot of work out that far to the right and normal I can flip the work… Thoughts? Looking for input is it needed?

The back side of my lathe is rough cast. Not a flat mount. What do I do? Put the lathe on the mill??? The bed weights more then I want to lift. Mount the plate, true it (grind as needed) and leave it there? Do four mount studs with standoff plates…

The Myford lathe has a flat section machined the length of the bed with a series of tapped holes so attachments can be added anywhere along its length , so the TTA can be positioned just about anywhere.

The "dead man bar" , i take it your talking about the type of TTA that fits too say a Southbend/Boxford Lathe ,were the complete TTA moves with the saddle of the lathe and the bar is locked to the lathe bed . This design overcomes the need for a flat on the rear of the lathe to mount the TTA and also easier positioning .

So in your case it would be a more suited design for your lathe, If your were to go for the Myford design of TTA , you could as you say ,spot face /drill tap fixings for studs , by means of an L shaped drill guide mounted to the rear of the lathe cross slide and extending downwards , that way all your stud holes will be parallel to the lathe ways . (can do sketch if you dont get my drift)

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When you are not using your TTA, do you just leave it loose, remove upper parts, remove all of it and “return it to the museum” for display?

leave it on the lathe to get covered in swarf

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On Rob’s Slider:
He hardened it, the wedge, missing from all photos and text, does it get hardened? I can see were you may have blued it in one shot. Is it BSM, or something soft?

Yes it was hardened too ,,,,,,,,, I hardened the slider parts as they and the guide bar are all BMS , hardening one set of parts means there will be no metal pick up as the the two parts slide together, I could /should have used cast iron .

Hope that helps

Rob

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #51 on:** January 04, 2013, 02:22:55 PM »

I understand the "L” guide to drill the holes. With you opening my mind to move the rig

, now I am thinking two rows of studs, a mounted plate , the full length of the lathe, with mount points on it. Kind of make my own machined flat. If I add a lip for the rig to slide on I don’t have to lift it. Just slide it to the location, screw it down and set it up and cut. Time for the crayon and the napkin again.

What are you using for gas to heat the BSM? I saw the fire brick, a bit of a blue flame. Again looking for what works. I don’t mind trying new things but the wheel is not getting replaced until one of us fabricate an anti friction device.

All this just to beable to cut a taper? Love this hobby.

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #52 on:** January 04, 2013, 02:49:49 PM »

Your idea to add a steel plate would give you allot more verticality

, I just used Propane to do the heating nothing special .

Rob

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #53 on:** January 07, 2013, 09:34:23 AM »

The bluing worked well, came out really dark on the first swing. The 2nd shot came out nice. Sorry no picks. I did not leave it in as long and got the nice coloring. Lots of smoke. Hahaha and no warning. Yes, I knew it would smoke but next time I’ll do it with the shop door open.

The rail is almost out of the crayon and napkin stage. Looking at a 1/2 by 3 inch hot rolled bar. Offset mounts will be 1x2x3. That will give me room to shave off as needed to true it up to the bed. I will add bosses on the mount points for the taper attachment to give it some to lock on.

I am really sweating the drilling of the lathe and cross slide. The Grizzly I have has the removable bed, never removed, so mounting on the head side gets tricky. For the cross slide, I want to cut a “T” slot like yours but not sure if this would be a good thing to do. Really like the two pin, one “T” bolt you picked. I have to put the slide of and take a good look.

If anyone has cut into a grizzly lathe please let me know how it went. Looking for the good bad and the ugly of the drilling into the casting.

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #54 on:** January 10, 2013, 01:04:36 PM »

"the cold rolling prosses there is allot of stress built up in the bar, and if you machine more off one side than the other you remove... ", Rob. It will turn in to a rocking chair leg. I got it, and didn't know why until I read this.

If I used hot rolled will I have the same problem? It cheaper and if I don't have to "cook it" It will save time and money.

I don't know so I ask, how else am I to learn.

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #55 on:** January 10, 2013, 01:42:58 PM »

Hot rolled is the way to go ,its allot more stable than BMS , I personally like using RHS , the down side is you have to machine all the surfaces .

Rob

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #56 on:** January 26, 2013, 01:00:55 AM »

I got it started. The slider is cut. the wedge is cut. The track is cut and marked. I plan on this weekend to move the lathe out and put the beam on the back side. When I am doing that I fire up the cooker and case harden the slider.

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #57 on:** January 26, 2013, 03:33:47 AM »

Loooking good Outlaw

Keep the photos coming , would really like to see your setup for doing the beam

, just one thing could you please resize the photos

just a tad large too view on for forum .

http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,4735.0.html ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, http://www.faststone.org/download.htm

Rob

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #58 on:** January 26, 2013, 10:20:20 AM »

Sorry about the pic. Fixed. I have to get a pallet jack to move the lathe to get the back side.

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #59 on:** January 29, 2013, 03:45:19 PM »

How is the Slide Taper attached to the table? I have my thoughts on how this can be done but looking to see if there is a way I have not thought of. I have even include a spacer between the Slider guide and the mounting table on one of my thoughts???

???

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #60 on:** February 03, 2013, 12:19:17 PM »

Cut the "T" slot in the cross slide last night. Also pulled the back of the lathe apart.

RadRod67 · « **Reply #61 on:** February 05, 2013, 10:41:55 AM »

Rob once again your work is exemplary and inspirational thank you for sharing. Outlawspeeder have you done any drawings for your attachment? I think your Grizzly is closer in design to my C06230A/914 than Robs

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #62 on:** February 08, 2013, 09:48:51 AM »

I had only crayons and a napkin when I started. Hahaha I’ll see if I can get something on paper or in electrons.

I have what I call the “Hard parts” done now. I have the 4 foot by 3”X1/2” drilled and counter sank two days ago. It is ready to be mounted to the Lathe. The plan is to lay #1 bolt in the gap between the head and the bed. I have a removable bed part that sounded great when I ordered the lathe. Now after reading other posts, I am afraid to remove or drill it. The 4 foot will run the full back side of the lathe with stand offs to turn it into a mono rail the attachment will ride on. I am thinking rollers??? I have aim the rest of the mounts to align with the webs of the lathe bed.

After the mono rail is mounted, it is down to building the moving table the taper will ride on. Rollers when not I use, clamps when in use. The first thought was a set of bolt hole in the rail and move the attachment to matching holes. With clamps it can go anywhere. It will need something to keep the mono rail clean as it is rolling.

I plan on doing more this weekend but with a test on Monday and the weather is looking like I can brake out the motor bike... so many toys….

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #63 on:** February 08, 2013, 09:58:38 AM »

Quote from: outlawspeeder on January 29, 2013, 03:45:19 PM

How is the Slide Taper attached to the table? I have my thoughts on how this can be done but looking to see if there is a way I have not thought of. I have even include a spacer between the Slider guide and the mounting table on one of my thoughts??? ???

Hi Outlaw , good to see your still cracking on with the project

Would you like me to take a few more/better photos of the TTA set up ?

Rob

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #64 on:** February 08, 2013, 02:31:45 PM »

PLEASE I am flying in the dark as I have never used or touch one of the taper setups. I feel like a Male gynecologist looking up a skirt for the first time.

I know how it supposed to work, just not sure…. HAHAHAHA

Does the pivot point really need to be bolted or will the screws on each end be enough to stop it from lifting.

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #65 on:** February 08, 2013, 03:22:23 PM »

nice analogy OLS

Pivot point ,,,,,,,,,,,, not sure i get your meaning

Rob

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #66 on:** February 08, 2013, 03:28:35 PM »

On the flat, the taper pivots. the center mount I saw what just looks to be a pin. How is that mounted. A tapered pin, a pin with a head...

Thought you would like that.

If you want a really good laugh... http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/57886-A-stroke-of-genius...

Put down you drink before you read it!!!!!!

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #67 on:** February 08, 2013, 03:54:28 PM »

this part ?

Rob

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #68 on:** February 08, 2013, 10:45:52 PM »

Ok so the bolt holds the pivot tight to the table. The upper part, the track?, is free to pivot on the pin. Does it just sit on it, is there something that stops it from lifting?

Thanks for the pic!!

BillTodd · « **Reply #69 on:** February 09, 2013, 06:45:03 AM »

solidworks 1910

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #70 on:** February 10, 2013, 01:37:21 PM »

Here's a few photos

Lets no if you need any more

Rob

outlawspeeder · « **Reply #71 on:** February 13, 2013, 12:47:13 AM »

The third photo you added is the big ticket!! Wow I thought the pin coming up was threaded and a tight mount from the cross slide to the top of the slide. I am so happy I didn’t work on that part yet.

So I have the rail mounted. It stand off the back at 1.75 inches on 5 bolts. Going from the bottom rail in the back to the top closest edge I have a run out of .0014 over the four foot run. I checked it at mid and its .0009. Not bad for a hand drill. I used the rail as a drill guide with drill guide inserts made for this.

One end, see photo (#1), is just clamping across the top of the lathe. This was due to the removable bed.

Thanks for the pics, it is helping SO much!!!

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #72 on:** February 16, 2013, 03:19:50 AM »

Nice job of fitting the guided rail

positioning the TTA will be a breeze

Rob

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Author Topic: Myford Taper Turning Atahment AGIAN (Read 90011 times)

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