My birthday has arrived and I was finally "allowed" to open my cz120 engravers brass barstock that I have been waiting on and have a proper read through the plans for Colin Thorne's Skeleton Timepiece. This really has been a life long ambition and I`ve been tinkering with clocks on and off for the last 8 years so I hope to see it through however long it takes.
I`m also going to be keeping a blog here:
http://clockbuilding.blogspot.com but to be honest, I post on here first and the blog posts come afterwards.
The research and efforts of the last month on wheel cutting is documented in this thread:
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2026.0 My aim is to continue with my efforts at wheel cutting whilest interupted efforts at other parts of the build to keep me enthused!
I recently got some punches, 20 x swiss needle files, Vertex dividing plates for the rotary table and currently on order a set of clockmakers tapered broaches. These are the only things that I can see me needing soon that I really needed to buy rather than make. I will need a depthing tool and jacots tool (or similar) which I am going to make myself over the next few months. I will eventually need a pivot file but these are £40 for one file and therefore I`ll get this later when I need it. I think I`ll manage most jobs with my standard shop tools and the few specialist tools I`ve bought.
A few pictures for you...
Here is my large set of Swiss and British made needle files -

This is my set of wheel blanks - cz120 of the required guages.

My collection of various arbors for wheel blank and wheel cutter holding.
The FrameI`m having a break from wheel cutting for a few days and I`m going to put some time into the frame. I am roughly following the order that Colin says to put it together in, in his book "Clockmaking for the Model Engineer". :
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2125.msg22051#newThe frame will need to be cut out of 5mm engravers brass and both front and back need to be identical. Pivot holes in the frame will need to be drilled together when the time comes so it is essential that the plates can be aligned quickly and accurately when needed for drilling. This is done by using brass taper pins shown in the picture. A pin is driven into the front frame at the top and bottom, the front is then polished off so the pin is invisible from the front view and a small "stub" left on the back side. This stub corresponds to a hole on the back plate allowing easy and accurate aligning. The picture shows the universal taper pins and the brass plates. These thick plates where the most expensive part of the clock:

The plans I recieved are perfectly to scale so I did a photocopy, cut out a template and stuck it to one of the plates whilest clamping them together. I have seen this method used before and it is perfectly acceptable for the plates. The pallet is also roughed out in a similar way when the time comes. The plates were bolted together with M4 screws countersunk at the back side. I will then be roughing this out tomorrow on my brother-in-laws saw but I will be leaving on the little bolt tabs. I`ll cut these off right at the very end, clamp the plates together with the locating pins and finish the plates fully.

And that is where I am at right now. I`ll hammer home the taper pins next and then rough the shape out ....
Thanks for looking. Hopefully many more episodes to come!
Chris