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The lathe arrives!
AdeV:
Only one pic tonight: I've got one carbide tool that sits too high in the toolpost to cut on-centre (even when located in the lowest toolpost slot); so the only option is to reduce the height of the tool holder.
Here it is having 0.005" milled off the base using a shell mill:
Even after 3 trips to the mill, it's still just a sensation high, so I'll whip another 5 thou off it tomorrow. It cuts quite badly at the moment, presumably due to this issue.
John Stevenson:
--- Quote from: AdeV on November 24, 2009, 07:47:02 AM ---Thanks for the link Trev :thumbup: Unfortunately, they don't seem to do any 8" cup-shaped wheels :(
So, I've just gone & taken one of the steel wheels off & measured it.
:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
It's 6"!
What an idiot.
I now need to find a 6" cup wheel with what appears to be a 2-5/8" hole for the hub. I suspect this will be a much easier task...
--- End quote ---
Yup just found a brand new 6" cup wheel, white ali-oxide for HSS tools.
John S.
trevoratxtal:
Hello John
I thought 8inch was on the big side but kept quiet, someone is bound to have used bigger.
Personal I have never come across any thing more than 4inch cup wheel and even that is ofttimes to big for some tool grinding.
I mostly use the diamond 3 inch cup wheels they seem to do the job well and do not need dressing.
Then I am a lazy b***r.
To my way of thinking, cup wheels have far more centrifugal stress than a similar standard wheel.
Trev
AdeV:
Today's task has been to clean and understand the taper turning attachment. Liberal doses of WD40, scrubbing with paper towels, rinse & repeat, and this is the result:
I was mainly concerned with the sliding bits, which is why it's not 100% spotless and sparkling
Here it's set up to do a 5 degree taper (not sure if that's 5 degree included angle, or 10 degree included; when I cut my first taper with it I'll know), with the fat end towards the headstock:
And 5 degrees the other way:
The markings go up to about 8 degrees in each direction.
It took me a while to suss out exactly how it works; partly because it was all stuck fast with grime, and partly because there's a bit missing... Specifically, the bit that locks the taper unit to the lathe bed. As it stands, the whole thing just travels along with the carriage, which is a bit useless when it comes to cutting tapers...
So: :proj:
Along with the QCTP, cam-lock chuck system, morse spindle adapter, now I have the Taper Attachment Missing Piece Project. I can't see anything on the lathe, headstock or tailstock end, which looks suitable for locking the taper slide down. I even took a photo of the back end of the lathe to see if anything showed up under the flash. It didn't:
However, there's provision for a couple of screws in the bottom slide (you can just about see them in the photo), so I'm thinking a couple of bars coming back out of the taper unit, to some kind of clamp device. The thing is, I don't really want to modify the lathe if I don't have to (at least, not permanantly); although ultimately if I have to drill & tap into the tailstock end casting, then that's what I'll do. But... there's no sign of that being done, so presumably Edgwick had a better method.
Can any ex-Edgwick users remember how the taper unit is locked down, John S? :wave:
Davo J:
From what I have seen on other taper attachments, is that they attach to the ways with a clamp on unit. That way you can move it up and down the bed were ever you are working. The link below shows what they look like.
http://grizzly.com/products/Taper-Attachment-for-G4016-Gear-Head-Lathe/H0775
Dave
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